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Post by ejparrott on Feb 22, 2015 8:23:56 GMT
Drain holes in whistle tubes won't work, the wife has a street organ and one of the pipes has a wood screw that holds the pipe in place, it pierces the tube, with the screw in the pipe is in tune, take the screw out and it squeaks. This is a tiny wood screw in a pipe that is about 2" square. There is a type of pipe that will work with a hole in it...I'll have to get the book out to remember which it is. I think it's Jazz flutes, and they have a leather cover over the hole...will look it up
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Post by Cro on Mar 18, 2015 21:08:27 GMT
More castings have arrived today for me, its all systems go at the moment! So I had the 7 1/4" manifolds turn up from New Zealand and they are looking good, couple of them need the surfaces tidying up but should be ok. I also had these bits come through from the foundry I use in the UK for anything that doesn't need wax printing - most of these bits will be heading to the guys at The Steam Workshop for their BR Class 4 re-build project. Adam
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Post by Cro on Mar 30, 2015 9:44:29 GMT
So I am now home for a week or so before my finals start so making the most of the time of in the workshop machining up castings for some of the fittings shown here and the Stanier Brake Valves in 7 1/4". I got started last night and thought I would share the progress this morning before I got going again in the workshop. So here I have the first set up for drilling the end flanges, these are all being done 8ba, drill 1.8mm, all the flanges have the holes dimpled to make life a little easier. Once this was done (forget to get a photo will do later) it was time to machine up the end before turning to do the same on the opposite end. Here is a finished end with holes taped. Started on the two injector flanges, hoping I could do both in one set up but I came across a little issue..... This means I will have to do two set ups for doing these faces but here is it half way through. Now to do the second one whilst set up in the osition to the same stage and then change the setup, then onto the shut off valve and finish with the main boss (I think it will be this order will wait and see!) Also I was looking at the other little castings shown above and I was pretty pleased when I saw this (ignore the print lines they will polish out with a bit of scotch brite, that how small they are/how zoomed in it is) The threads look pretty good, you can see these when just looking at the casting without the camera, pretty happy with these bits so far! Cheers, Adam
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Post by Cro on Mar 30, 2015 22:09:52 GMT
So today's progress, I machined the seconds manifold to match the progress on the first, adjusted the set up so finish the final square faces on both, set up the other vertical slide to get the angle for the main shut off valve, drilled these out and tapped them before making the shut off valve bodies them selves. So here we go with some more photos! Firstly we have the set up for drilling the shut off valve on the angle of 83 degrees to the main boss. This was then left set up and a 3/8"x32 taper tap was used to get me going before using a plug tap to finish. The threaded portion internally is only a little over 3/16" so not much. Now both are finished and machined I left the seat internally as it was for now as I am having a change of heart on how to make the valve rod so want to make the rest of the valve first Now onto the valve body, this is one of those parts that has a hex end too it but a round collar larger than the hex (what idiot drew it up that way....oh wait!) so outcomes to dividing head. After getting the hang of it for the Brake Valve to me this was going to be easy, and so it was. Here we have the set up, pretty simple, dropping the work below the height of the cutter, I had worked out I needed each step to be at a depth of 50 thou. After the final cut, pretty happy with it, just needs popping back in the lathe, chamfer adding and tidying up All finished for this side, now to turn it around and pop the male 3/8"x32 threaded portion. The hole in the middle takes the threaded valve rod and the outer thread takes a gland nut. Didn't think you'd want to see me putting the last thread on so here it is finished and fitted, first job tomorrow once I am back from the club is to make the valve rod and seat and test it out! Thanks for looking, Adam
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Post by Deleted on Mar 30, 2015 22:23:32 GMT
Lovely work Adam....these are going to look great and work too.....well done sir...
Pete
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Post by Cro on Mar 30, 2015 22:27:34 GMT
Cheers Pete,
Its been rather enjoyable to do and the casting machines so well!
More tomorrow, hopefully won't be at the club too long I can get them finished and do the other little bits that need doing too before the brake valves arrive.
Adam
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Post by rogsteam1959 on Mar 31, 2015 7:12:13 GMT
Hello Adam, Your doing a good job. Most makes me smile the combining of modern technology and and traditional machining. The myford seems to be very old. But very versatile. By the way, did you see the model Eric did from the water pump? Michael
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Geoff
Hi-poster
Posts: 169
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Post by Geoff on Mar 31, 2015 14:02:57 GMT
I think this work is superb, and only hope that in future, I will be able to produce similar stuff. But for now I'm stuck with old fashioned methods.
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Post by Cro on Mar 31, 2015 22:02:33 GMT
Michael, I did see the model briefly, looked great! The Myford is my Grandads so it has been through 4 finished locos, a traction engine and various other projects so it is doing ok, but so versatile I love it. Geoff, Thanks for the kind words, the thing about all of this is if I were to take away the castings that are made using these modern techniques everything else is done in the traditional way so if I were to supply people with castings there is nothing to say they couldn't machine them up assuming they have a bit of experience really. A bit more progress made today after getting back from the club, I managed to finish the second shut off valve body, make both valve rods and PTFE seats, gland nuts and bore the seat internally and now I am onto threading the main boss so here is some more photos of progress. Firstly just a a shot of the valve spindle being made, held between centers so I could just turn down the end (RHS) to go into the PTFE seat. All the parts needed to make the shut off valve. Both now at the same stage ready for the main boss to be machined The initial idea was to cut a thread straight onto the casting but the boss came out slightly under size so I decided to turn the boss down and fit a sleeve to then thread, the only way to turn this was on a face plate. More progress tomorrow when I hope to finish this practice one and then do the same to the other two and do the little finishing touches such as dummy valve spindles and so on. Brake Valve castings turned up today so hopefully get a bit of time on those tomorrow too, just to wet your appetite here is a quick picture of the valve disc with all the holes cast in! (The Pictures don't do it justice) Cheers, Adam
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Post by Roger on Apr 1, 2015 3:54:23 GMT
Excellent results Adam and some nice setups. I usually do those faceplate ones with it flat on the bench to avoid fighting gravity before getting it exactly right on the lathe. I wholeheartedly agree with the sentiments expressed here about the mix of old and new techniques. There's nothing wrong with old equipment and methods, especially if that's the equipment you have access to. CNC has huge advantages on some jobs, but precious little on others. The thing is to make best use of what you have, and that's amply demonstrated in your pictures. Do keep it coming, it's very interesting.
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Post by Cro on Apr 1, 2015 8:24:00 GMT
Roger,
Totally agree, I was thinking about it last night - what could I actually have CNC'd here and the only bit really for me would be the shut off valve body. The rest is a bit diddly in my eyes for CNC but i imagine it could be done, will have some castings with me over the weekend so no doubt if you pop over you'll be able to tell me how!
I did originally set the work up on the flat and then adjust by eye once on the lathe till I thought it looked ok, then got the dial out and clocked it in and I was about 2 thou out so a little adjustment and I think I got it just under 1 thou which is fine, the important turning will be when I have soldered the sleeve on to turn that to size ready for threading. Hopefully see there done today and onto the next jobs.
To the workshop!!
Adam
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Post by ejparrott on Apr 1, 2015 8:31:43 GMT
It's do-able, anything's possible! Smaller machines are better for smaller jobs, but you can make even the big machines we've got at work do little stuff. You need good eyesight though!
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Post by Roger on Apr 1, 2015 9:14:26 GMT
Roger, Totally agree, I was thinking about it last night - what could I actually have CNC'd here and the only bit really for me would be the shut off valve body. The rest is a bit diddly in my eyes for CNC but i imagine it could be done, will have some castings with me over the weekend so no doubt if you pop over you'll be able to tell me how! I did originally set the work up on the flat and then adjust by eye once on the lathe till I thought it looked ok, then got the dial out and clocked it in and I was about 2 thou out so a little adjustment and I think I got it just under 1 thou which is fine, the important turning will be when I have soldered the sleeve on to turn that to size ready for threading. Hopefully see there done today and onto the next jobs. To the workshop!! Adam Hi Adam, I was also thinking more generally about machining the raw castings you have with CNC. The motivation for going to CNC is often to create more complex geometry, perhaps like the parts you're making, but it turns out to be the mundane stuff where it comes into its own. As Ed says, much of this is possible with CNC but it's a long drawn out process with many setups and quite inappropriate for anything other than a one off for that sort of thing in my opinion. You also don't get the 'cast' look which adds to the authenticity of the pieces. I'm all set to come over at some point over the holiday, I think Sunday is the only day I'm tied up, but I might be able to convince the family to come too. We'll see.
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Post by ejparrott on Apr 1, 2015 9:30:05 GMT
I was thinking of the machining ops Adam is doing rather than making from the soiid!
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Post by Deleted on Apr 1, 2015 9:58:04 GMT
Posting moved to Craftsmanship Museum thread .
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Post by Cro on Apr 1, 2015 14:25:17 GMT
Posting moved to Craftsmanship Museum thread . Don't worry Michael you won't get told off in here for digressing slightly ;-). Just turning up the second boss, been a slow morning as I have been taking my time on the practice casting to make sure I get it right when turning it on the faceplate. Adam
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Post by Cro on Apr 1, 2015 23:03:25 GMT
Ok so I am almost done here so don't worry my flood of posts will calm down (maybe not we'll see) I managed to get both of the boss's turned down today and new sleeves silver soldered and threaded along with all the dummy shut off valves, doesn't sound like a lot but I spent most of the day working on the spare casting to make sure all of my set ups and cutting tools were right so I didn't damage one of the actual castings. First off was machining the boss down to take the sleeve, now this might spark up a conversation, the one thing I was worried about was not having sufficient penetration of the solder under the sleeve to make it strong enough so I decided I would add some groves to the boss to ensure plenty of solder was under the sleeve. To make sure the solder had gone all the way through I covered the boss in flux and made sure there was plenty between the two and when applying solder I only applied it to the top of the ring and waiting till I saw it come out at the bottom, that way I was fairly certain it had found its way all the way down and around. Do people think these rings will have helped at all? Once this was done it was back onto the face plate, this time it was a nightmare to set up although I was doing it all the same so I tried out a little suggestion I had and it really help, I think the photo explains it better than I can really. End result, a nice clean thread After this was done its mainly finishing off touches, firstly the dummy shut off valves, all 1/8" steel rod with a 4BA thread on one end to go into the casting and a square on the other. Back out with the dividing head as this was the quickest and easiest way to do the squares. Just a little tip for anyone interested, using a clamp on the lathe bed allows me to bring the work up to the same position each time, if I set the spindle in the collect with the same amount protruding each time then I will always get the same size square on each spindle. Here they are fitted Couple small jobs to do tomorrow, make the adapters for fittings on the pressure gauge and Auxiliary valve take offs and fit the studs on the square faces. Cheers, Adam
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Post by simon48 on Apr 2, 2015 8:13:05 GMT
Hi Adam,
Very impressive with the fittings you are creating, I feel like 'Chuck, the muddle Engineer' as I never progressed beyond 70's School Boy metal work! Using a centre as a 'wobbler', and dial to check the movement, is the way I've used for quite a few years now and is near enough for me.
Regards Simon
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Post by Cro on Apr 2, 2015 8:33:54 GMT
Cheers Simon, Having never has to use the faceplate before I was unsure in the best way of doing it but this worked a treat!
Adam
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Post by ejparrott on Apr 2, 2015 9:04:28 GMT
I think the grooves were a waste of time, but I think your method of doing the silver solder was spot on. That's my thoughts. I don't think they will have done any harm either.
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