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Post by rogsteam1959 on Apr 29, 2015 15:28:02 GMT
Back to the little things I wanted to fix. I was talking about slipping and swaying sidewards. I had a closer look at the springs. They were a bit too small for this weight. When I remember right was it Julian who said that I should check the axleboxes first. Julian were right. My axlebboxes are totally worn out. This will be a job for the winter. On Friday is the next steaming and I will let you know how it was. Stronger springs are build in and the sight feed glass is cleaned and filled with glycerin.
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Midland
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,870
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Post by Midland on Apr 30, 2015 21:42:28 GMT
Hello David , This are the best shots? . I had a look at their website. Very impressive. When I watch your engine it is not shaking like mine. Maybe I will have a look at my springs. Regards Michael Hi Michael Hope to run at Brent House this weekend, will try to get some video for you with my Compound. Yes she does shake a bit at the start but not if you start realistically. Cheers david
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Post by rogsteam1959 on May 2, 2015 9:25:50 GMT
Hi David, Looking forward to see some video of your engine. Starting realistic is a problem for at the moment. My extension for the regulator has a thin rod that is like torsional spring because it is 4mm dia. You may image how funny it is when you try to open a little bit and then the rod snip it further than you want. I put some other springs to the axle boxes. That was very positive. No extreme shaking and the slipping wasn't that much. But I have to take a closer look at my clack valve for the right hand I injector. He is not closing good. Don't know what I have to expect from him now and how I can make the ball seat working. I will know when I have opened it.next thing is to put a filter in the water feed of the injectors. Both failed to bring water out after three hours steaming and the ride was over. The handpump in my tender needs some work also. after I remove the lid of the tender I found the reason for the not pumping. The pump rod is not sealed and the water goes through the hole backwards out When I close the the hose. He us not able to bring some pressure. Many things to do for the next ride.
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Post by rogsteam1959 on Jul 6, 2015 21:47:04 GMT
Some things were done. The handpump piston is sealed and the pump is working. But I saw a comment of David how he fills the boiler. I bought a 12v camping pump and can say thank you only for this idea. I also made new bearings for the tender axleboxes. The old ones were almost 1mm oval and sometimes a wheel wasn't on the rail and not turning. A filter was build in for the injector feed and so I decided to make a visit in Radebeul.http://www.minibahnclub-dresden.de/ My first goal was testing the injectors on the side where the one is who works good. A new one from Pollyengineering and the other two I have weren't working. So I put the working one on the left side and drove about two hours without problems. The injector worked really well from 30-95psi. Last Sunday I went to Düsseldorf because we had real hot weather. I was happily starting but my injector was not working good. He started at low pressure but over 50 psi he stopped pumping and the water went through the overflow. It took some time for me to recognize that there was air in the hose from Tender to injector. A look under the tender showed me the filter was deformed and had a small hole. So I put a hose instead of the filter in. The injector was pumping better but over 80 psi the water went through the overflow again. After two hours I gave up and puled the fire. As disconnected the tender the water from the tender run over my hand and I was surprised how warm the water was. Can handwarm water be a problem for an injector? What kind of filter is the best to install between the tube? I also ordered the book " miniature injectors, in and out" to understand the diva injector. Michael
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NickM
E-xcellent poster
Posts: 230
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Post by NickM on Jul 6, 2015 23:07:52 GMT
Hi Michael
Warm water is certainly a problem for injectors; I run my loco in Southern France every couple of years and on a sunny day over there the water temperature straight from the tap is too warm for the injector. Another good reason for having an axle pump!
Regarding the filter, I use a one inch square of old tights held over the water side of the bulkhead fitting with a suitably sized O ring. Simple, effective and easily replaced.
Ice cubes in the tender tank might prove a point (and a solution?)
Regards
NickM
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Post by joanlluch on Jul 7, 2015 6:02:41 GMT
I'm located just opposite the French-Spanish border, and I can confirm that in Summer injectors hardly work here due to water/ambient temperature. Eventually, over the last two weeks we had the longer and more intense heatwave that was ever recorded in a Century. Temperatures are returning now to normal for this season (about 33 C), but over the last week we had peaks in the range of 39-40 C. Any water left in the sun for an hour would reach 10 C more (up to 50 C) and will literally burn your hands. Good for miniature loco efficiency, but bad for injectors.
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Post by rogsteam1959 on Jul 12, 2015 12:03:02 GMT
Yesterday I went to friend and we tried the injectors on my MOK. I put the loco on a rolling road and so we were able to waste some steam. After last Sunday where I was wondering about the different working of the injector I wanted to know how he works with cold water. Result, he works better. The injector on the right side of my loco wasn't working all the time and I found out that the steam valve wasn't complete closed and I need to close it with more force. After closing it I tested the water coming out of the overflow. It stayed cool and the injector worked up to 90psi. The clack valve on the left side is leaking a little bit and this injector is working up to 75psi only. Is this caused by leaking steam back to the injector? Big problem for me I cannot remove the valve without dismantling the whole engine. So have to find a way to seal the seat for the ball with the valve build in. Cheers Michael
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