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Post by Deleted on Jul 21, 2019 21:22:28 GMT
Today was my turn for steward duty...it was a great day for a number of reasons and I now feel even more part of the club being accepted into the small group of top engineers within the club. Today I got there early armed with a file with approx 20 high definition A4 photo's of my model. I was particularly looking for Ron, a superb builder of LNER loco's in 3 1/2 gauge as we have been sharing details for a while. He also arrived early (for him) and called me over into the club carriage to show me something, so we shared files. His consisted of works drawing for the A4 including corridor tender, drawings that he used in the 60's to build his superb A4. The detail on his models surpasses most 5" models, I believe he was awarded a silver for his model of Hush Hush. Anyway, to cut a long story short, while I was doing my duties, Ron had told others of my photo's and they wished to see them too. I handed over the file to Derek ( another ace model engineer) and got on with stewarding. It was an hour or two before I was freed from my task and went looking for my file, basically, it had been passed around and I received many fine comments on my build, vice chairman suggesting I do a powerpoint presentation one eveing. Needless to say I came away from the club today feeling very much part of the inner circle if the top midel engineer locomotive builders of NLSME. Hopefully it will encourage me to continue with the build....today was a great day.... Pete
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Post by simon822 on Jul 21, 2019 22:39:23 GMT
Talking of ‘notching up’ I have 2 7 1/4” gauge locomotives, both notch up:
The Hunslet used to notch up 2 notches, but as the valve gear has worn, it will now only notch up 1. The amount of steam and water consumed reduces vastly even just notching it up 1 notch.
The wren will notch up 2 notches, but the power is much reduced, and it can stall easily if not opened quite wide, but worse the lubricator stops feeding, but is ok 1 notch up. Next time it is in the workshop the lubricator drive may be moved to a return crank.
For those people reading the safety valve thread the wren passed its steam test with flying colours, the pressure gauge not moving once the safety valve opened, just a bit more pop that I would want!
Regards
Simon.
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Post by delaplume on Jul 22, 2019 1:48:06 GMT
Firstly catch up from yesterday, got the cab and running boards back together with the hydrostatic oil system fitted. I have made a backing of thin aluminium (Litho plate) painted white so hopefully see the oil globules easier. I have filled the glasses with vegetable glycerine, I have lots as I use it when making e-cig (vaping) liquid, so thought I'd give it a try just neat, although it is rather viscous so maybe I should dilute it 50/50 with water? That's really a question for some experienced members please. I managed to hide the pipe run below the running board on the right hand side with only a short section exiting the cab. Just need to steam it to check everything works ok, hope to do that early in the week as it needs to be ready for next week ends 'Steam Railway Weekend' at Fareham club. I've been rostered for both Saturday and Sunday afternoon shifts. Chris D Hi Chris........ that's a very professional looking back-head indeed but may I venture just one constructive observation ??...... Generally speaking drag beams ( at the rear of the loco and front of the tender ) are usually Black in colour, whilst it's the Buffer beams which would have been Red....Some say that was a hang-over from a "Bobby" ( Railway Policeman ) being required to walk in front with a red flag by way of a warning.............. a practice soon dropped as locomotive technology improved in leaps and bounds.... Has the Condensing coil "improvement kit" arrived yet ?? Best regards Alan R
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Post by ilvaporista on Jul 22, 2019 5:08:31 GMT
A few weeks late but here are some first shots of the weekend in middle Italy at the opening of the new extension. youtu.be/AJ0HE0RhraQTich had a good few runs on the challenging track keeping up with much bigger locos.
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Post by delaplume on Jul 22, 2019 7:44:29 GMT
WoW !!--------- that's some steep gradients you have there but your chaps seem to have it all in hand...
however that young boy was lucky his foot didn't catch firm on the end of the platform !! ( 1.05 onwards )
Nice bit of engineering with the turntable....
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Post by David on Jul 22, 2019 10:47:58 GMT
What I learned today. While whittling a 62mm dia piece of brass down to 32mm with 1mm deep cuts I was getting showered in hot brass and it was going everywhere. I put my welding mask and gloves on it was so bad. I couldn't find bolts long enough to put the chuck guard back on the lathe, I tried.
Then I increased the depth of the cut to 2.5mm and the problem was much more manageable.
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Post by springcrocus on Jul 22, 2019 14:48:09 GMT
What I learned today. While whittling a 62mm dia piece of brass down to 32mm with 1mm deep cuts I was getting showered in hot brass and it was going everywhere. I put my welding mask and gloves on it was so bad. I couldn't find bolts long enough to put the chuck guard back on the lathe, I tried.Then I increased the depth of the cut to 2.5mm and the problem was much more manageable. So make a quick tool guard instead. Simples. Regards, Steve
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Post by Roger on Jul 22, 2019 14:49:38 GMT
What I learned today. While whittling a 62mm dia piece of brass down to 32mm with 1mm deep cuts I was getting showered in hot brass and it was going everywhere. I put my welding mask and gloves on it was so bad. I couldn't find bolts long enough to put the chuck guard back on the lathe, I tried. Then I increased the depth of the cut to 2.5mm and the problem was much more manageable. This is why I always use coolant on everything except cast iron. If it's getting that hot, it suggests that the tool isn't sharp enough. There are certainly some feeds and speeds that result in more of the heat being taken away by the chips than others. Big cuts on a rigid setup are the way to go for removing lots of material. The limit is usually the rigidity of the machine. I can take 10mm off the diameter of a piece of Brass in one cut if I don't mind deafening myself and aggravating the neighbours.
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Post by andyhigham on Jul 22, 2019 15:18:17 GMT
A while back I machined down a BSA clutch centre, it in effect the inner race of a roller bearing so very hard. I used a carbide insert tool, my Harrison M300 lathe and produced orange yellow incandescent swarf
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timo
E-xcellent poster
Completing 3 1/2 Rainhill .Building 5" Railmotor and waiting to start 3 1/2" King
Posts: 234
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Post by timo on Jul 22, 2019 18:22:05 GMT
Managed two jobs in the workshop today. Firstly I put a plinth under the mill. When I bought the WM16 from Warco I also bought the stand. I thought it looked a bit low and so it has proved (it was giving me back ache if I spent much time machining). I have now raised it by about 5" and the table height is just right, the X and Y handles are spot on (horizontal forearm). Wish I had done it straight away. I also used the new tramming head for the first time. Wow it is so quick to use. It almost took longer to put the ER32 collet holder in and add the 1/2" collet to take the head than it did to zero the meters and then tram the head. The great thing is you can see exactly what is happening whilst you make adjustments and also when you tighten up the holding nut. Got it to less than 0.5 thou over 10" which is probably better that the flatness of the table!
Tim
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Post by coniston on Jul 22, 2019 18:38:25 GMT
Firstly catch up from yesterday, got the cab and running boards back together with the hydrostatic oil system fitted. I have made a backing of thin aluminium (Litho plate) painted white so hopefully see the oil globules easier. I have filled the glasses with vegetable glycerine, I have lots as I use it when making e-cig (vaping) liquid, so thought I'd give it a try just neat, although it is rather viscous so maybe I should dilute it 50/50 with water? That's really a question for some experienced members please. I managed to hide the pipe run below the running board on the right hand side with only a short section exiting the cab. Just need to steam it to check everything works ok, hope to do that early in the week as it needs to be ready for next week ends 'Steam Railway Weekend' at Fareham club. I've been rostered for both Saturday and Sunday afternoon shifts. Chris D Hi Chris........ that's a very professional looking back-head indeed but may I venture just one constructive observation ??...... Generally speaking drag beams ( at the rear of the loco and front of the tender ) are usually Black in colour, whilst it's the Buffer beams which would have been Red....Some say that was a hang-over from a "Bobby" ( Railway Policeman ) being required to walk in front with a red flag by way of a warning.............. a practice soon dropped as locomotive technology improved in leaps and bounds.... Has the Condensing coil "improvement kit" arrived yet ?? Best regards Alan R Thanks Alan for advice on colours, I bought this one in this condition (un-steamed from new) and will strip and repaint in correct LNER green. I'm going through the full commissioning and adding more details before I do the strip down. I'll check now you mention it on the whole colour scheme to make it more prototypical. Yes the condensing coil arrived today, it's a lovely job, hope to incorporate it during the re painting exercise. Chris D
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Post by Deleted on Jul 22, 2019 20:08:41 GMT
Hi Chris
That's a lovely looking loco, just a quick comment re 'correct LNER green' I'm no expert on the class but believe that L&Y stock became part of the LMS stock after grouping, not LNER. I stand to be corrected if I have this wrong, if I am correct I would suspect that the correct livery may be black, hopefully others with more knowledge of the class can give you a definitive answer. Of course it's your loco and can be painted any livery you wish, I only commented as you said 'correct green'. As I said she's a beautiful loco and being from Don's stable should be a very good representation of full size.
Kind regards
Pete
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timo
E-xcellent poster
Completing 3 1/2 Rainhill .Building 5" Railmotor and waiting to start 3 1/2" King
Posts: 234
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Post by timo on Jul 23, 2019 18:50:41 GMT
Cleaning up after the swarf fest of the tramming bar, I stripped the tailstock of the lathe to give it a good clean and lubricate. There had always been some fore - aft movement which was not godd and I assumed that previously I had no reassembled the tailstock properly. Well, not quite! It turns out that the feed screw in the tailstock and its associated nut are not a good match! After measuring and inspecting the feedscrew it seems fine (within 1 thou of nominal diameter along the screw and no obvious wear on the threads. The nut is a bronze bush the fits inside the tailstock barrel and that looks horrible. A quick search online and yes spares are available (its an elderly Myford Super 7) but how much??!!!! You can only now buy a 'matched' feedscrew and nut at £100. So do I spend £100 or turn up a bronze bush containing a left hand 0.5" square thread? I have previously turned square threaded feed screws in 0.5" but chickened out at internal threading at that diameter.
By the way the float is a good 1/16". All else is nice and snug. I can't complain as the lathe is 1954 and the nut looks like the original.
Tim
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Post by Roger on Jul 23, 2019 19:39:59 GMT
Cleaning up after the swarf fest of the tramming bar, I stripped the tailstock of the lathe to give it a good clean and lubricate. There had always been some fore - aft movement which was not godd and I assumed that previously I had no reassembled the tailstock properly. Well, not quite! It turns out that the feed screw in the tailstock and its associated nut are not a good match! After measuring and inspecting the feedscrew it seems fine (within 1 thou of nominal diameter along the screw and no obvious wear on the threads. The nut is a bronze bush the fits inside the tailstock barrel and that looks horrible. A quick search online and yes spares are available (its an elderly Myford Super 7) but how much??!!!! You can only now buy a 'matched' feedscrew and nut at £100. So do I spend £100 or turn up a bronze bush containing a left hand 0.5" square thread? I have previously turned square threaded feed screws in 0.5" but chickened out at internal threading at that diameter. By the way the float is a good 1/16". All else is nice and snug. I can't complain as the lathe is 1954 and the nut looks like the original. Tim I'd be inclined to just put it back together and live with it unless you want to spend the time making a new nut. You could make a tap much easier than you could screw cut the nut. It's an interesting mini project if you fancy it!
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timo
E-xcellent poster
Completing 3 1/2 Rainhill .Building 5" Railmotor and waiting to start 3 1/2" King
Posts: 234
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Post by timo on Jul 23, 2019 19:51:09 GMT
I'd be inclined to just put it back together and live with it unless you want to spend the time making a new nut. You could make a tap much easier than you could screw cut the nut. It's an interesting mini project if you fancy it! Thanks Roger. The idea of making a tap had occured to me and it would probably be easier but if I make the nut then I can get the fit just right. The problem with the float is that if I am drilling, the tailstock barrel can snatch and move forward. You are right it is an interesting project but I am not sure I fancy it at the moment, neither does the piggy bank fancy the new nut and feedscrew. I have just checked Tracy Tools and a LH acme tap is £35 +
More pondering I think. You are right that it doesn't stop me using the lathe.
Tim
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Post by nick952 on Jul 23, 2019 21:05:43 GMT
Hi Tim, Just double check, but I think you'll find that the tailstock has a 3 start thread.
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timo
E-xcellent poster
Completing 3 1/2 Rainhill .Building 5" Railmotor and waiting to start 3 1/2" King
Posts: 234
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Post by timo on Jul 23, 2019 21:24:52 GMT
Hi Tim, Just double check, but I think you'll find that the tailstock has a 3 start thread.
Nick,
Thanks for that - I belive you are right about the three start - I thought it looked slightly odd. That confirms it - there is no way I am tackling a three start 0.5" left hand square threaded bush! A single start would be a bit of a challenge but three start - forget it.
I had found "Myfordsolutions" and looked at their offering but the nut costs 54 euros plus postage. I would need to be really sure of the state of the feedscrew at that price as they don't offer the feedscrew.
I see a second mortgage coming up!
Tim
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Post by nick952 on Jul 23, 2019 21:41:04 GMT
The nut is listed at 34.95 euro via the link I posted. They also list the feedscrew at 91.45 Euro. The UK Myford one at £101 inc VAT and Postage for the complete assembly, obviously works out cheaper, if replacing both parts.
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Post by Roger on Jul 23, 2019 21:55:30 GMT
I'd be inclined to just put it back together and live with it unless you want to spend the time making a new nut. You could make a tap much easier than you could screw cut the nut. It's an interesting mini project if you fancy it! Thanks Roger. The idea of making a tap had occured to me and it would probably be easier but if I make the nut then I can get the fit just right. The problem with the float is that if I am drilling, the tailstock barrel can snatch and move forward. You are right it is an interesting project but I am not sure I fancy it at the moment, neither does the piggy bank fancy the new nut and feedscrew. I have just checked Tracy Tools and a LH acme tap is £35 +
More pondering I think. You are right that it doesn't stop me using the lathe.
Tim
You'll never completely remove the backlash. Is the grabbing when you're using conventionally ground drills on Brass? There are two solutions to this, the easiest being to slightly lock up the tailstock so there's resistance to this happening. The second is to grind the drill so there's no helix angle at the cutting edge. That's all jolly fine if it's a big drill, but for small ones it's not so easy. I always use the first method and feed the drill slowly.
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timo
E-xcellent poster
Completing 3 1/2 Rainhill .Building 5" Railmotor and waiting to start 3 1/2" King
Posts: 234
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Post by timo on Jul 23, 2019 21:57:48 GMT
The nut is listed at 34 euro via the link I posted. They also list the feedscrew at 91 Euro. The UK Myford one at £101 inc VAT and Postage for the complete assembly, obviously works out cheaper. Nick,
Thanks for the update. Interesting that the prices on the .nl and the .com sites are different for the same item and that on the .com site they don't list the feedscrew. On the .com site the price of the nut is 45 euro plus 21% tax!
I might try getting the nut from the .nl site as at 34 euro as it is a reasonable price. It might be entertaining trying to navgate the site and make a purchase in Dutch!
Tim
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