pondok
Part of the e-furniture
My 5" gauge SAR class 15F
Posts: 359
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Post by pondok on Aug 28, 2015 18:58:51 GMT
Hi all,
Yes again another capacity issue, I need to drill 14mm, but my press drill chuck can only take 10mm shank max, just can't seem to find a 14mm blacksmith's drill on t'internet with 10mm or smaller shank. Has anyone else sourced this or similar? Thanks again, Andy
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Post by chester on Aug 28, 2015 19:28:17 GMT
Hi Andy you can always turn the shank down to suit the size of the chuck you are using i have found the shanks of taper shank drills can be turned down with a high speed tool as long as you go slowly.Graham
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pondok
Part of the e-furniture
My 5" gauge SAR class 15F
Posts: 359
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Post by pondok on Aug 28, 2015 19:39:34 GMT
Thanks Graham,, I will give that a go, assumed in my ignorance I would need carbide inserts or something...
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,900
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Post by jma1009 on Aug 28, 2015 22:33:58 GMT
hi andy,
a most interesting problem! i also like Graham have lots of large drills with the shanks turned down. i cant say whether they are carbon steel or HSS as they dont get used very often - coupling rods mainly.
the quickest way out is to visit someone with a BIG pillar drill!
i do have a drill pad for my lathe so in theory big drills can go in the 3-jaw, though i cant say ive ever used it.
cheers, julian
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Post by springcrocus on Aug 29, 2015 5:59:55 GMT
Back in the days when the likes of Dormer and Presto reigned supreme, I'm fairly certain that all taper shank drills (and reamers) as well as plain-shank drills over a certain size had mild steel shanks butt-welded to the high-speed steel fluted section. Often, a close examination of the shank will reveal a change in shade where the butt-weld has been made. I have never had any problem turning down shanks of drills or reamers using high speed steel tooling although the shank material feels like it's up in the EN16 range. In fact, I have turned down a 1" long section of all my smaller taper-shank reamers (up to 1/2") so that I can use them in either my drill chuck or directly in the tailstock barrel of the lathe.
I can't speak for the more modern rubbish coming in from afar, though.
Steve
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Post by ettingtonliam on Aug 29, 2015 6:50:14 GMT
I think you will have to turn the shank down anyway, because all the blacksmith type drills I've got have 1/2" shanks.
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Post by goldstar31 on Aug 29, 2015 7:51:49 GMT
Steve is or was right. HSS drills CAN or could be turned down or bored. The HSS was soft enough to machine.
I've still long extended drills which were used for the long bores on bagpipes. Mine were silver soldered.
However two alternatives seem to be either to buy carbide- masonry drills or make D Bits from silver steel.
Hope this helps
Norman
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Post by eightpot on Aug 29, 2015 11:26:47 GMT
Only thing that could cause problems - depending on the material to be drilled - is that a machine with only a 10 mm capacity chuck could have a lowest speed that is still too fast for the side of drill.
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Post by taycat on Aug 30, 2015 8:49:16 GMT
How far from Leeds are you? You can come use my gear if you want. So long as you don't mind the mess as having big sort out.
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arron
Active Member
Posts: 49
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Post by arron on Sept 3, 2015 21:10:53 GMT
Hi Andrew
Easiest way is to pop over and use my mill, I'll get the kettle on!
Arron
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denis M
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 300
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Post by denis M on Sept 3, 2015 22:53:00 GMT
Try Warco, they do or did do them in sets.
Denis
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