miken
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Post by miken on May 25, 2016 20:13:17 GMT
Ive got a bit of a thing about vices. I dont use soft jaws or those fibre things you can buy. I believe they should be smooth (and of course hard). So , a quick rub over with the stone; For radiusing the ends of rods I always file them. I make up hardened silver steel buttons. I have a draw full of part worn files that I have collected over the years and I am prepared to sacrifice a few of them in the making of a model. Blending the flats into fish-bellyness So now they are profiled. Next to thin them down to width; First clock the vice back true. Mill one side to width; Turn over . Add some packing to support it and finish to width; Back to the bench vice for a bit more filing, emery cloth and oil Fit he bronze bushes and drill the lubricating holes;
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
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Post by jma1009 on May 26, 2016 21:22:53 GMT
Thank you Mike for that excellent description and pictures. Very similar to how I would make the rods.
Cheers, Julian
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miken
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Post by miken on May 27, 2016 19:41:38 GMT
I felt like a change from motion parts so made the Boiler back head clacks today. The LNWR favoured 5 spoke handwheels for their valves. Looking at my enlarged picture I see I have a bit more deburring to do on the wheels. The LNWR clack valves were in cast iron so these will end up painted. Or maybe I could tin them with soft solder which might look better when its dulled down?
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jma1009
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Post by jma1009 on May 28, 2016 10:02:51 GMT
Hi Mike,
The backhead clacks look superb. Shame to paint them.
Will you be adding an internal pipe to take the feed towards the front of the boiler?
Cheers, Julian
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miken
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Post by miken on Jun 1, 2016 7:02:09 GMT
Hi Mike, The backhead clacks look superb. Shame to paint them. Will you be adding an internal pipe to take the feed towards the front of the boiler? Cheers, Julian No I wont bother with that on this loco.
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Post by Roger on Jun 1, 2016 8:06:46 GMT
I felt like a change from motion parts so made the Boiler back head clacks today. The LNWR favoured 5 spoke handwheels for their valves. Looking at my enlarged picture I see I have a bit more deburring to do on the wheels. The LNWR clack valves were in cast iron so these will end up painted. Or maybe I could tin them with soft solder which might look better when its dulled down? I have a similar problem in that I can only buy M1 screws in Brass, but they should be Steel. I've ordered a bottle of Birchwood Casey Brass Black in the hope that I can make them look less Brassy.
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miken
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Post by miken on Jun 1, 2016 12:10:19 GMT
I felt like a change from motion parts so made the Boiler back head clacks today. The LNWR favoured 5 spoke handwheels for their valves. Looking at my enlarged picture I see I have a bit more deburring to do on the wheels. The LNWR clack valves were in cast iron so these will end up painted. Or maybe I could tin them with soft solder which might look better when its dulled down? I have a similar problem in that I can only buy M1 screws in Brass, but they should be Steel. I've ordered a bottle of Birchwood Casey Brass Black in the hope that I can make them look less Brassy. Let us know if it is successful
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kipford
Statesman
Building a Don Young 5" Gauge Aspinall Class 27
Posts: 566
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Post by kipford on Jun 1, 2016 21:49:22 GMT
I use the brass black all the time on 4mm scale locos you should have no problems. By the way the metal black also works on brass. Dave
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miken
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Post by miken on Jun 3, 2016 15:34:16 GMT
I have finally got round to fitting and finish turning all the wheels to their axles. Here is my quartering jig. Not having any coupled wheels takes a lot of the worry out of wheel quartering. LNWR facts:- On most British locomotives the right hand crank leads. On the LNWR it is the left. Also:- LNWR axles have domed axle ends unlike most others.
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miken
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Post by miken on Jun 6, 2016 15:55:42 GMT
I have started making the leaf springs. The tufnol strip available wasn't the correct width so i had to bandsaw it down. Boiling in hot water seems to work quite well to put a permanent set into the tufnol strip. The LNWR didn't bother with fancy tapered ends to their spring leaves (good) and I just snipped each leaf of with scissors.
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miken
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Post by miken on Jun 7, 2016 21:38:59 GMT
Inner and outer covers fitted to the LP engine. Dummy lubricator in centre. Trial fitting of front leaf spring
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,901
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Post by jma1009 on Jun 7, 2016 22:15:07 GMT
What an amazing bit of work!
You are a very clever chap, Mike!
I drool over 'Bessborough' then you come up with all this LNWR stuff! wonderful!
Cheers, Julian
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miken
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Post by miken on Jun 8, 2016 15:21:38 GMT
What an amazing bit of work! You are a very clever chap, Mike! I drool over 'Bessborough' then you come up with all this LNWR stuff! wonderful! Cheers, Julian Thank you Julian, That's very kind. One day I must finish my Terrier But I know I will struggle with Mr Stroudley's Livery. I will rely on you describing the painting and lining process.
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miken
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Post by miken on Jun 8, 2016 19:26:46 GMT
While I was making the loco buffers It seemed logical to make the tender items. Using my method described in a recent thread. I remembered I had a bit of ash in the shed, left over form when I renovated my old Morris Minor a couple of years ago and decided that this would do for the front end. This is described on the LNWR drawings as the "Buffer Plank". My guess is that the old loco fitters would have continued to refer to it as a "plank" for years after they changed from wood to all steel construction! All the wood parts end up painted black. The tender chassis is mainly wood, so I will probably do that in ash as well as I have enough. I remember buying loads (and wasting loads when doing the car). As the front facing plate is quite thin I thought it would be helpful to make it from 1mm gauge plate as its a bit stiffer than m/s. There was no rear steel plate on the prototype but I decided to rebate a second piece here to try and add a bit more strength to the assembly as I want to be able to lift the loco by the buffers and it wont be seen. LNWR facts. Loco buffers have the mounting studs orientated to the "odd hours" position (as shown). Whereas tender buffers are positioned "even hours". Also: The buffer studs should be double nutted
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jma1009
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Post by jma1009 on Jun 8, 2016 21:45:21 GMT
Hi Mike,
I was particularly interested in your tantalising Terrier parts with correct 'D' shaped smokebox etc for the A1 type. You do keep your light under a bushel sometimes!
The Webb details on your new loco are quite wonderful. It is one thing to copy a preserved loco like Stepney, but quite another thing entirely to re create something in miniature that was scrapped many years before we were born.
Cheers, Julian
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miken
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Post by miken on Jun 9, 2016 16:12:36 GMT
The LNWR used lamp sockets instead of more conventional lamp irons. These were a straightforward milling job. I drilled the centre hole then filed it square. I used 10ba hex screws and filed the heads square to simulate the coach screws. I had to make a small tube spanner to put the screws in. I first filed a short bit of silver steel to the required sq size. drilled a piece of m/s rod and tapped the square rod into the end to make the spanner.
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Post by Jim Scott on Jun 10, 2016 9:31:15 GMT
.............. I was particularly interested in your tantalising Terrier parts with correct 'D' shaped smokebox etc for the A1 type. You do keep your light under a bushel sometimes! .............. Hi Mike Another project eagerly anticipated..... Very early in Julian's 'Boxhill' thread I mentioned trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear, it looks like your Terrier is heading down the same path. I wonder how many builders get so far with Martin Evan's design only to realise his 'representation' of a Terrier could in fact be made very close to scale? I will also look forward to seeing your progress, hopefully in the not too distant future. Enjoying your present build, great work. Liked the composite leaf springs, did your combination arrive at the correct scale dimensions as well as the (guess)estimated rate? Cheers Jim S
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miken
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Post by miken on Jun 10, 2016 15:34:45 GMT
Liked the composite leaf springs, did your combination arrive at the correct scale dimensions as well as the (guess)estimated rate? Jim S [/quote]
Spring rates are pure guesswork Jim. I'm not very good at sums (or interested). However, the external dimensions are correct/to scale. I will see what happens on the track and then adjust as necessary. Mike
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miken
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Post by miken on Jun 10, 2016 21:35:49 GMT
Dummy rear brake cylinder offered up. Turned from a bit of bar. As can be seen, the rear springs on a Dreadnought are coil type and were wound up from square section wire. Also the single centering spring on the front radial axle box. Now I must confess that even if such a thing as square spring wire exists, i wouldn't have bothered to make them. All i did was find some rather oversize looking round wire coil springs. I poked a drill shank up the middle and twiddled them against a grinder or belt linisher and ground a flat on the OD. You have to keep quenching them because they soon heat up. To the casual glance (How many people glance casually at the underneath of a loco?) I think they look OK, but they are of course "D" section. Also, This means you can adjust the strength/poundage by just grinding a bit more off. I did this on my J tank and it worked well. LNWR fact: The coil springs on the right hand side should be wound clockwise and the l/h side anti clock. No, i dont know why either. Again, I haven't done this on the model.
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mbrown
Elder Statesman
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Post by mbrown on Jun 11, 2016 17:52:20 GMT
I got some very nice springs in square section wire from the guy at the Midlands Model Engineering Exhibition whose stall has all sorts of surplus kit (can't remember his name)- he seemed to have lots of them. They would be about the diameter of the ones on your Dreadnought. I haven't yet fitted them to my loco - of the springs I have got, one set are rather soft and the square wire ones would be a good deal stiffer so I intend to experiment.
But I like your idea of grinding a bit more off to adjust the stiffness - and your attention to detail is breath taking.
Malcolm
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