stevep
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,070
|
Post by stevep on Apr 30, 2019 11:40:23 GMT
Keith Wilson was a great supported of this type of arrangement - especially for the tenders of 7 1/4" gauge locos, where the driver sits on it!
The one thing to remember, which I am sure you know, is to only clamp the axle in one of the axleboxes!
|
|
kipford
Statesman
Building a Don Young 5" Gauge Aspinall Class 27
Posts: 566
|
Post by kipford on Apr 30, 2019 12:54:50 GMT
Mike What is your paint scheme, as I am at about the same stage and cannot decide which of about 4 options to go with. Also do you only blacken things like brake hanger, pins etc. Regards Dave
|
|
miken
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 477
|
Post by miken on Apr 30, 2019 13:04:45 GMT
Keith Wilson was a great supported of this type of arrangement - especially for the tenders of 7 1/4" gauge locos, where the driver sits on it! The one thing to remember, which I am sure you know, is to only clamp the axle in one of the axleboxes! Hello Steve, Yes I think that's who I got the idea from. One end is gripped with a grub screw. The other end is a reamed slidey fit.
|
|
miken
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 477
|
Post by miken on Apr 30, 2019 13:15:02 GMT
Mike What is your paint scheme, as I am at about the same stage and cannot decide which of about 4 options to go with. Also do you only blacken things like brake hanger, pins etc. Regards Dave Dave. As far as I know the only paint scheme for the LNWR compounds was black all over. Even the tender rear buffer beam and inside of the loco frames. Front buffer beam is red. Someone please correct me if this is incorrect. I was going to paint everything but that's a good suggestion of yours, I will oil blacken some of the brake pins and nuts.
|
|
JonL
Elder Statesman
WWSME (Wiltshire)
Posts: 2,907
|
Post by JonL on Apr 30, 2019 14:49:01 GMT
Black locomotives "Just Look Right" to my mind. An apple green or garter blue loco is a beautiful thing to behold, but black says "I mean business".
|
|
kipford
Statesman
Building a Don Young 5" Gauge Aspinall Class 27
Posts: 566
|
Post by kipford on May 1, 2019 6:24:13 GMT
Mike Thanks for the response, I realise I was actually being to clever for my own good, reverting back to work terminology! I actually meant which undercoat, top coat you used. Dave
|
|
miken
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 477
|
Post by miken on May 1, 2019 12:19:04 GMT
Mike Thanks for the response, I realise I was actually being to clever for my own good, reverting back to work terminology! I actually meant which undercoat, top coat you used. Dave Dave, Well you won't be very impressed if it tell you. I degrease with panel wipe, soak in phosphoric acid for a bit. Wash off and prime with an aerosol etch primer from ebay. Then after 24 hours, spray with a black aerosol. Some bits I've used precision paints aerosol enamel (yes, I know this is all wrong) other parts are just an automotive type spray can in gloss black. The wooden parts are done in Cuprinol ebony 10 year woodstain.
|
|
kipford
Statesman
Building a Don Young 5" Gauge Aspinall Class 27
Posts: 566
|
Post by kipford on May 1, 2019 18:26:36 GMT
Mike I see no real problem with this and mirrors my own thoughts.
Dave
|
|
miken
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 477
|
Post by miken on May 2, 2019 20:12:14 GMT
I forgot to mention that a few weeks ago I steamed the loco with the assistance of a B1 tender, a plank of wood, Black and Decker Workmate and a Morris Cowley. It wasn't entirely successful. As I was waiting for the pressure to come up i manged to break the fire door operating mechanism. Its quite delicate. it jammed in the open position. The door opens inwards, into the fire box. The steam blower just blew water up the chimney because water was condensing in the thick wall copper blower pipe that runs up the outside of the boiler. So I had to keep the electric steam raiser on all the time. After a lot of faffing about I finally got pressure up. Only one injector worked.
When i tried the HP engine it clonked into life (both cylinders were now full of condensed water due to the lack of drain cocks) When I shut the by-pass valve to run the LP engine it did half a turn and shot a load of water up the chimney which fell back into the smoke box, down the tubes and drowned the fire! I have now addressed these problems and will have another attempt shortly.
Here is the Blower pipe. I have now run a smaller diameter pipe down the centre. This should cure it. My friend has a 5" LNWR Jumbo with the same arrangement and its fine. It was apparent that I needed more cylinder drains as I only had 2 on the LP cylinder. I have now fitted 4 more to the HP cylinders. It also occurred to me that when I have finished running the engine condensed water will run down and pool in the inverted steam chests of the HP cylinders. So I have also addde a couple of threaded plugs to each steam chest lid which I will remove after running to assist water draining. I now think that as this is going to be such a wet engine to run, I now think I made a mistake when I chose to make the cylinder linings, pistons and rings from iron. Apologies for the Cap head screws. They are used for convenience and will be replaced with something more suitable during the final assembly after painting.
New pair of injectors mounted ether side of the displacement lubricator oil tank. Just above the rear axle you can just see the copper condenser coil for the lubricator. Also, the boiler blow down valve and boiler filler valve. Ive stopped fitting hand pumps on my engines when, after many years it occurred to me that I only ever use them for filling the cold empty boiler. Now I just fill the boiler by pushing a hose from the tap straight onto the spigot shown.Its much easier and quicker. Its all a bit crowded under the footplate now. You will see that the brake operating links are, out of necessity, just fixed dummies.
|
|
|
Post by David on May 3, 2019 12:13:17 GMT
So, im very satisfied with the results. I appear to have succeeded in reproducing and incorporating in my model, all 4 of this engines worst and famously, least useful features. You can't ask for more than that! I've just gone through the thread from page 1 and it's a really inspiring piece of work. The outside Joy valve gear looks great and the big LP cylinder is impressive. The smokebox plumbing is... really pushing things. It's amazing you have got all the features in there and I love it, but wow that's a lot of stuff in a small space. How are you going to clean the boiler tubes? You can barely see them, how do you get a brush through them?
|
|
miken
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 477
|
Post by miken on May 3, 2019 20:22:51 GMT
The smokebox plumbing is... really pushing things. It's amazing you have got all the features in there and I love it, but wow that's a lot of stuff in a small space. How are you going to clean the boiler tubes? You can barely see them, how do you get a brush through them? David, I haven't actually tried yet. its going to take a bit of a wriggling though. Incidentally, a senior member in my club who is a very prolific builder and runner of his very well maintained and reliable locos tells me that although he cleans out his smoke boxes, he rarely if ever sweeps his boiler tubes saying, you dont need to. Another member used to blow his tubes out with a small diameter flexible airline. I dont fancy that though. I would think it would blow gritty ash all over the place.
|
|
|
Post by andyhigham on May 3, 2019 20:36:44 GMT
Forcing a wire brush through the tubes can only cause more wear. The main reason for tubes clogging is lighting up using wood, this causes a sticky tar like deposit in the tubes that soot and ash sticks to
|
|
stevep
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,070
|
Post by stevep on May 4, 2019 8:21:31 GMT
I think it's more the paraffin that the wood is soaked in. I use a fire lighter and dry charcoal. Seems to work well.
|
|
|
Post by andyhigham on May 4, 2019 9:40:18 GMT
I use charcoal soaked in white spirit. I tried methanol as I have gallons of it for a couple of the bikes, it worked well but you cannot see if it is burning until the charcoal goes red
|
|
miken
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 477
|
Post by miken on May 18, 2019 15:30:18 GMT
Im getting close to the stage where I want to steam the loco properly. So this week i have been finishing a couple of boxes to protect the engine and tender when transporting it. Fortunately the track is only a couple of miles away.
Here is how I secure the buffer end.
The 2 crates secured to the trailer.
|
|
miken
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 477
|
Post by miken on Jul 13, 2019 20:45:14 GMT
Took the Dreadnought down to the track today and finally got it running successfully, up on blocks in steam. Had the driving wheels going both forwards and contra-rotating. it runs noticeably smoother with the driving wheels running in opposite directions! for various reasons I didn't try it on the track this time. Unfortunately no one had a camera to record this event. I have now received the name and number plates from Diane Carney. As usual they look very nice. The model now has a name "Swiftsure" I now just need to make the splashers and its more or less completed.
|
|
JohnF
Active Member
Looking for lost Mojo
Posts: 22
|
Post by JohnF on Jul 14, 2019 12:37:36 GMT
Just read whole of this thread Mike, you are a master, fantastic build.
|
|
mbrown
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,719
|
Post by mbrown on Jul 14, 2019 16:49:23 GMT
After all the controversies about whether the Webb compounds ever "really" had the wheels going in opposite directions, you have proved the point decisively by the best means possible - building one and trying it! I guess the precondition for contra-rotation is that the track is greasy and there is little adhesion - in your case, with the loco jacked up, presumably there was virtually none. But now we know - contra-rotating wheels on Webb compounds is a real phenomenon.
Great work.
Malcolm
|
|
|
Post by johnrutzen on Dec 9, 2019 20:29:57 GMT
The LP cylinder will of course be lubricated by the second hand exhaust steam and oil mixture from the HP cyl. Read more: modeleng.proboards.com/thread/11096/webb-compound-dreadnought#ixzz67dxUKGWL HI, I am building a Jeannie Deans to LBSC design and I would question his idea of passing the exhaust steam from the HP cylinders through another superheater. Wouldn't the oil in the steam be turned to carbon and deposited on the inside of the pipe? I don't know whether you are re-superheating the steam.
|
|
|
Post by RGR 60130 on Dec 10, 2019 10:24:28 GMT
You may expect to get deposits in the superheater. The same thing happens in multi stage reciprocating air compressors where carbon builds up in the inter coolers and drain traps. However, this isn't the end of the world. It just means that you you need to implement cleaning of the superheater as a part of your annual? planned maintenance regime. Construct it from stainless steel and make it easily removable.
Even if you don't actually superheat the steam, you will add energy to it (increasing the dryness fraction) which will be available to do work in the LP cylinder.
Reg
|
|