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Post by 92220 on Aug 8, 2016 8:17:19 GMT
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Post by 92220 on Aug 8, 2016 8:25:37 GMT
Oh no! Has no-one told you that a Myford is a substandard lathe, incapable of any proper work? Wil Not quite sure if that is a joke or not, but I did chuckle because I made the lathe up from secondhand parts that I refurbished and painted over a period of about 12 months. It has been updated a couple of times since then. The last time was when I bought a lathebed with power cross slide. When it arrived I found I had bought a bed that has a very desirable little label on the end - 'Induction hardened bedways'. Just before Myford shut down, they had the bed and cross-slide and reconditioned it back to 'As New' spec. It regularly turns to tenths of a thou, so not quite substandard.
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Post by gwr14xx on Aug 8, 2016 8:59:00 GMT
Just to add another variable - was it the Myford that was sub-standard, or just the operator?
Eddie.
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Post by 92220 on Aug 8, 2016 9:20:28 GMT
The Myford is good. It's the operator that's the problem. Always falling asleep.
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Post by simplyloco on Aug 8, 2016 11:36:22 GMT
Oh no! Has no-one told you that a Myford is a substandard lathe, incapable of any proper work? Wil Not quite sure if that is a joke or not, but I did chuckle because I made the lathe up from secondhand parts that I refurbished and painted over a period of about 12 months. It has been updated a couple of times since then. The last time was when I bought a lathebed with power cross slide. When it arrived I found I had bought a bed that has a very desirable little label on the end - 'Induction hardened bedways'. Just before Myford shut down, they had the bed and cross-slide and reconditioned it back to 'As New' spec. It regularly turns to tenths of a thou, so not quite substandard. I'm quite sure that was a satirical statement, as was my post on longevity. The operator is king!
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Post by Doug on Aug 8, 2016 17:28:14 GMT
stunning work love it each bit you have made is a work of art in itself, love the oil pipes too they add that little extra touch.
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,896
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Post by jma1009 on Aug 8, 2016 22:23:14 GMT
Hi Bob,
A belated welcome to this forum!
We discussed paint matters at a London ME exibition when I was a teenager, and you were very gracious patient and helpful to a youngster.
I had heard of this marvel of a build many years ago. Splendid that you are describing it for us here!
I do hope you are well and continuing with progress.
(I do hope you will also respond to all paint/livery/colour queries on here as many have cropped up over the years).
With best wishes, Julian
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Post by 92220 on Aug 9, 2016 7:43:08 GMT
Hi folks. Thanks for all those kind comments.
Hi Julian. I'm pleased to hear that my jabbering encouraged a youngster to keep going with our hobby rather than putting him off! Good to make contact again. Yes, if anyone has any queries, if I can answer them I will be happy to.
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Post by 92220 on Aug 9, 2016 16:19:41 GMT
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Post by 92220 on Sept 4, 2016 8:07:46 GMT
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Post by 92220 on Sept 4, 2016 8:16:18 GMT
I've managed to duplicate a couple of photos. I can't find any way of getting back into the text to edit and delete one of the Photobucket links. I've tried using the 'Edit' box at the top of the front page, but it just brings up the pictures, not the links. Please can anyone advise me how to do this? Thanks.
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Lisa
Statesman
Posts: 806
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Post by Lisa on Sept 4, 2016 8:32:44 GMT
At the bottom left of the edit box there's 2 tabs/buttons, one of which says something like 'BBCode', click it and you'll get the raw text to edit.
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Post by 92220 on Sept 4, 2016 9:10:26 GMT
Brilliant. Thanks Lisa. All sorted!
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Post by mikemill on Sept 4, 2016 16:02:22 GMT
Your work is superb, attention to detail is excellent, so I was surprised to see in some of your images milling cutters held in a three jaw chuck, not considered good practice as the cutter can creep forward when working, have you experienced this happening? Please don’t take this to be a criticism just an observation.
Mike
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Post by noggin on Sept 4, 2016 19:18:57 GMT
This has to be up there with some of the finest builds in the uk. Looking forward to seeing more. Agree with that,Really nice work
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Post by 92220 on Sept 5, 2016 8:14:56 GMT
Your work is superb, attention to detail is excellent, so I was surprised to see in some of your images milling cutters held in a three jaw chuck, not considered good practice as the cutter can creep forward when working, have you experienced this happening? Please don’t take this to be a criticism just an observation. Mike Hi Mike. Thanks for your kind comment. You are right about the use of a drill chuck for milling. Not normally a good idea! I've never had a cutter work it's way out but using a cutter in a drill chuck in the vertical quill head, can result in the chuck coming loose in the morse taper, due to vibration, and dropping out, unless the taper shank is held with a drawbolt!! I rarely use one these days, and then it is only with small diameter cutters, below 1/4". The Clarkson runs so much more concentric than a drill chuck anyway, and is locked in, so that is the one mainly used. Those photos were taken a long time ago, and I was only milling the soft white metal running faces of the crossheads, so there was no noticable cutter vibration. I now have a set of side lock cutter holders which are now used, instead of the drill chuck, for tight spaces. Bob.
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Post by 92220 on Sept 6, 2016 7:36:14 GMT
Thanks, folks, for those kind comments.
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Post by 92220 on Oct 9, 2016 17:03:15 GMT
Done a bit more on the tender. One problem I found was that the ratio of head dia to rivet dia for BR 'snap head' rivets, is smaller than the ratio of head dia to rivet dia for scale size snap head rivets, so I have had to turn down a load of rivet heads. It wasn't quite as bad a job as I had expected. I ground up a form tool to form the head shape. First of all I turned the snap heads on a load of 3/32" iron rivets to 0.125" dia. Then I turned up a small washer to fit between the chuck jaws and the rivet head. This guaranteed that the underside of the heads were always at exactly the same distance from the chuck jaws. The form tool was set up and some experimenting had to be done to find the ideal depth of cut because the rivets were so soft that I couldn't plunge cut the head shape. I found that I had to use the form tool like a normal turning tool and shave no more than 0.002" at a time, and had to feed in the cross-slide VERY slowly. Any more than 2 thou and a bit too quick, and the rivet head just twisted off! The photos show the stages of machining the heads, and the little spacer washer: The rivet head, turned to diameter The rivet head turned to shape I don't know if anyone has used the Arrand 'Rivet Shortener'. It's brilliant!! It cuts rivets exactly to length and there is no burr left on the cut edge. The following photos show it in use (I have no connection with the company except as a very satisfied customer. To use it you turn a collar to the exact length you want the rivet minus 0.125". The collar fits over the long rivet and the rivet plus collar are inserted into the appropriate hole in the cutting blade. The Shortener is used in a vice as shown in the photos. You just press the rivet down and tighten the vice. This cuts the rivet to length. Just tighten the vice and the rivet is cut: The axlebox guides fitted to the frames:
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Post by Oily Rag on Oct 10, 2016 20:47:33 GMT
Crikey, looking and admiring 92220's work is simply marvellous and much to be learned from this thread. Please keep sharing
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Post by 92220 on Oct 12, 2016 8:55:19 GMT
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