|
Post by mr swarf on Aug 11, 2018 10:05:15 GMT
These are the coupling rods which came with it. As you can see, they are a bit rough so will be replaced. Original Rods by Mr Swarf, on Flickr This one shows how much the previous builder "eased" the bush's in an attempt to get it to turn over, due to the problems I have hopefully now corrected. Rod Bush by Mr Swarf, on Flickr Looking at pictures of Black 5's on the internet some have non fluted fish bellied rods so I decided on that type. Saves fluting as well Paul
|
|
|
Post by simplyloco on Aug 11, 2018 10:26:37 GMT
A very good (bad?) example from the 'Hack and Bash' brigade. I started with a part built Stirling Single, and when I looked closely it was just like a Rescue Dog: someone else's problem passed on to an unsuspecting mug i.e., me!
|
|
Midland
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,870
|
Post by Midland on Aug 11, 2018 16:42:29 GMT
Familiar story. My 4F part built had frames that only looked a little bit like the drawing and the dimensions were out by 1/4" in some places. New frames! D
|
|
|
Post by mr swarf on Aug 12, 2018 14:41:03 GMT
The new rods would come out of some 3/4" x 1/4" steel. Having found the axle centers it was marked out & the holes for the bush's drilled. I don't have the luxury of a DRO so the measurement was counted out on the handwheel dial. Drilling Rods by Mr Swarf, on Flickr Then the middle section was milled down to size. Milling rods sides by Mr Swarf, on Flickr After rounding the ends the front face was then recessed. Milling rods face by Mr Swarf, on Flickr After a little attention with smooth files & emery I had a leading rod. There is no drawing for this style of rod so I hope I have got the proportions right. The middle is 3/8" wide tapering to 5/16" at each end. Leading Coupling Rod by Mr Swarf, on Flickr Now to do it all again for the other side. Paul
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 12, 2018 15:04:27 GMT
great work Paul...I've only just noticed your pictures of the original rods...now there's easing and then there's easing...those sure are in the extreme category... Pete
|
|
|
Post by simplyloco on Aug 12, 2018 17:36:20 GMT
The new rods would come out of some 3/4" x 1/4" steel. Having found the axle centers it was marked out & the holes for the bush's drilled. I don't have the luxury of a DRO so the measurement was counted out on the handwheel.SNIP Now to do it all again for the other side. Paul Hi Paul and good for you. I've always done it 'The Hard Way' with no problems! Keep up the good work. John
|
|
|
Post by mr swarf on Aug 13, 2018 18:50:34 GMT
After a bit more milling I have a set of coupling rods. New Coupling Rods by Mr Swarf, on Flickr Bush's are turned from 102 bronze & pressed in. Just need to make the joint pins & then put everything together to see if I have achieved anything. Paul
|
|
|
Post by springcrocus on Aug 14, 2018 5:51:25 GMT
Nice work, Paul
Regards, Steve
|
|
|
Post by mr swarf on Aug 15, 2018 11:27:09 GMT
With the rods done have I corrected all the problems? I had an idea I could test it on the wife's treadmill , she was out at the time So here is a short video of little Doris doing up to a heady 5mph! Tesing Coupling Rods Video by Mr Swarf, on Flickr There is just a little tight spot at back centers but I think that will run in. Considering how bad it was, I'll take that. So Doris is saved from the scrap metal skip, although it was a close at times. There are no more problems to fix now so hopefully I can get on with the build & try to emulate the quality of others on here. The treadmill showed Doris had no pulse so I'll get on with that next by doing the cylinders. Paul
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 15, 2018 13:13:21 GMT
Great work Paul....runs nicely....now that's what I call a 'rolling road'...SWMBO would love a treadmill...I'm sure she would, with a little persuasion... Pete
|
|
|
Post by GWR 101 on Aug 15, 2018 13:35:49 GMT
Great work and the best use of a treadmill I have ever seen. Regards Paul
|
|
barlowworks
Statesman
Now finished my other projects, Britannia here I come
Posts: 873
|
Post by barlowworks on Aug 15, 2018 13:50:11 GMT
Running great Paul, and you could always hop on at the side of it to get the old heart rate up. 😱☹️
Mike
|
|
Lisa
Statesman
Posts: 806
|
Post by Lisa on Aug 16, 2018 7:10:58 GMT
I have a treadmill in my workshop... hadn't considered using it as a rolling road though, good thinking!
|
|
|
Post by doubletop on Aug 16, 2018 10:33:51 GMT
Love it! In this game you can't beat a bit of lateral thinking.
Pete
|
|
|
Post by mr swarf on Aug 20, 2018 11:20:00 GMT
Here are the cylinder castings which came with it. They are nicely machined and all the measurements seem spot on. A welcome change from chassis, clearly the work of someone else. Cylinders by Mr Swarf, on Flickr Starting with piston valves, I checked the bore with a length of 5/8" bar. The bar wouldn't quite go through due to tight spot in the center. I knew I had a 5/8" reamer somewhere so I would put that through. Whilst looking in the drawer for the reamer I also found an adjustable reamer which covered 5/8". I didn't know I had that . Using the adjustable reamer I gradually increased the size until it just cut along the full length of the bore. The 5/8" bar then went through nicely. Reaming Valve Bore by Mr Swarf, on Flickr There were no covers for either bores so I turned up the valve bore covers next. I had a bit of 1" bronze bar so they were turned up from that. The front is just a plain cover whilst the rear has the hole & boss for the valve spindle. Turning Back Cover by Mr Swarf, on Flickr The valve spindle was next. Just a length of 3/16" stainless steel with 2" of 3/16" x 40 thread put on using the tailstock die holder to ensure accuracy. Threading Valve Spindle by Mr Swarf, on Flickr Here are the completed covers & valve spindle with some locknuts added from 1/4"AF brass. Covers & Valve Spindle by Mr Swarf, on Flickr The piston valve bobbin is next. LBSC suggests some 5/8" stainless. I don't have any of that but do have some 660 bronze so they will be made of that. Paul.
|
|
|
Post by mr swarf on Jan 23, 2019 14:55:01 GMT
Its been a while due to the usual life distractions but I've braved the cold workshop to get started again. A straight forward job to get back in to it, I turned up the piston valve covers for the second cylinder. I then threaded some 3/16" stainless for the valve rod & made the lock nuts. There is no indication how thick these nuts should be on the drawings or text so I have guessed at 3/32". Does anyone know what they should be? Valve rods & caps by Mr Swarf, on Flickr The loco came without any castings for piston blanks or front & rear covers so I'll have a look what's in my box of bronze offcuts, otherwise it looks like a raid on the piggy bank for some new bronze bar. Paul
|
|
timb
Statesman
Posts: 511
|
Post by timb on Jan 23, 2019 16:07:03 GMT
Looking great Paul, I have a set of castings for Doris and it is most likely going ot be my next project so I will be following this with interest. I bought some castings and frames for my Canterbury Lamb from the internet and had similar issues with the previous owner getting things wrong so I know a little of what you are going through. This looks like it will be very nice when its finished - well done Sir!!
Tim
|
|
stevep
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,070
|
Post by stevep on Jan 23, 2019 17:42:33 GMT
I also have a set of castings for DORIS, so again, I am following your thread with interest for when I get started on it.
Steve
|
|
JonL
Elder Statesman
WWSME (Wiltshire)
Posts: 2,902
|
Post by JonL on Jan 24, 2019 9:46:44 GMT
If it looks right it probably is right... and that looks right.
|
|
|
Post by runner42 on Jan 25, 2019 6:35:08 GMT
|
|