Just out of interest, why do they fit pipework ducting the draincocks forwards on locomotives?
Down would spray ballast and muck up into the works, outwards would hit anyone on the platform/lineside, backwards or inwards would clean the oil/grease off the works, up would obstruct the drivers view, forward is the only clear path.
Lisa Currently building: 5" gauge Blowfly. 3½" gauge Tich. On the "future dreams" list: LBSC's Molly, JR C56 mogul, Bulleid Light Pacific. @tiklishhoneybee on Twitter
So thats a pair of coupling rods with bearings, drilled lubricator ports and some of the mounting hardware. I made the nuts as I didn't have a good source for 5/32x40 nuts, just small mild steel hex with a tapped thread, all good practice. Next I need to make the flush fasteners for the leading driving wheels (is that the correct terminology?). The wheels move freely, but there is a point of slightly higher resistance. Not sure if its a big issue, its not like it jams solid, but there is a spot where the level of drag increases just a little. As its running ball bearings on the driving axles its more easily noticed I guess? Maybe I'll push it round our club track a few times whilst making the appropriate noises. Chime whistle for these I believe...
Have had limited success in the past by using 3 pieces of wire that fit down the flutes, if you can hold them the correct distance apart near the face then twist them with pliers. Hope you have some success, it's bad enough when it's self inflicted but getting some one else's breakages is a real trial. Regards Paul
Thats rather annoying.... the previous owner left me a little surprise in one of the holes drilled one of the cylinder castings... gee thanks...
You can drill that out if you don't mind sacrificing a few carbide PCB drills at about £1 a pop. Just line it up as close to the centre of the hole as possible and use the hand wheel and a medium spindle speed to very very slowly feed the drill in. It will turn the tap to dust if you give it time, but the odd bit might break and snap the drill. I'd choose a drill that's about 0.3mm under the tapping size. Make sure it's all clamped down, and don't try it on a pillar drill, you need an ultra slow handwheel to feed it in. This eBay supplier sells them in packs of 3 but I usually buy them in packs of 10 which is more economical.
I don't know how far you are from me near Gatwick, but by all means drop in and I'll get that out for you without any drama.
Is the broken tap in a hole intended for securing the cylinder backplate? If so you could just drill & tap a new one alongside....
I know I would want to try and get it out but it may not come easily.
I remember breaking a 12ba tap whilst threading the holes for the cladding in one of my cast iron cylinders. A new hole alongside was not an option on that occasion and I drilled various further small holes around it until I got the broken remains out. The collection of ragged holes were then cleaned out by a much bigger drill, tapped and the hole plugged so that I could finally re-drill & tap 12ba. A right performance but it worked eventually!
I'm afraid that when faced with these situations, I have made up a hollow drill, with the centre hole a clearance on the tap. When the tap is well below the surface, a normal drill can be used initially, which creates a hole that guides the hollow drill.
Once the hole has been made and the broken tap removed, I then re-tapped the hole a larger size and loctited a piece of studding in place. When set, the correct size hole was re-drilled and tapped.
Member, Committee member and Webmaster for Tiverton & District MES www.tivertonmodelengineering.org.uk Built and run 3 1/2" Rob Roy Built (and sold) 5" Stanier 2-6-4T Building 5" Pansy Building 5" Charlatan (nearly finished) Building 3 1/2" Doris Early in building 7 1/4" Dean Single (Lorna Doone)