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Post by runner42 on Dec 14, 2018 7:04:40 GMT
This is a very pertinent question which solicited some very good responses, much of which I had no inkling of, so it is timely that this was asked, although I am not quite nearing undertaking the same operations I have earmarked this thread so when in the new year when I do cover the same operations I have many excellent responses to guide me through this challenging part of the build.
Brian
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JonL
Elder Statesman
WWSME (Wiltshire)
Posts: 2,907
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Post by JonL on Dec 14, 2018 7:50:59 GMT
Just a pointer for you}---- When trying your rods on the rolling chassis make sure you have locked the boxes in their approx. running position ( probably half way ? ) I've currently maxed out all the axle boxes at fully down, i.e. locomotive on stilts! I figured it was the easiest way to ensure the axles were all in the same state of alignment. This is just for the coupling rods at the moment, I will centre them as you say for the rest of the motion work. and that you roll the chassis on a section of firm, flat track each time I've only got a section of track about 5ft long at home; I made this before I started the loco as I figured I would need somewhere to work on it, its just some track attached firmly to a stout piece of wood. Hopefully this should be enough.....This will negate any clearances in the boxes at the moment of testing but--- upon their release --- will add a few extra thou overall and should give a nice, sweet-rolling assy... excellent, thanks for the tipsOther things to consider}---- a) What method did you use to ensure each of your 6 crankpins were at an IDENTICAL pitch from their axle centres ...and that they are at a true 90 degrees from the wheel's FRONT face ?? Sadly I didn't fit the crank pins, the unknown person who started it before me did those. His engineering has been either perfect or dreadful, seemingly dependent on how far the project they were. Based on the doubts this is raising I'll get measuring.b) Similarly how did you 1/4 the wheelsets such that they are the SAME as each other ??..Note}--- you are allowed a few degrees off either way from the required 90 degrees so long as ALL 6 have the same error.... SimplyLoco kindly assisted me in quartering the wheels using an LBSC jig he made, all wheels have been quartered and pinned. Since pinning I've tried the wheel assys back on the rig and they are still bang on.
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Post by delaplume on Dec 14, 2018 9:31:49 GMT
Hi Nobby,
I like that Red highlighting----how did you do that ?
a) A bit obvious really but you'll need enough track length to roll for at least 1 revolution.... anything after that is just repetition.. So it's 2 pi R ( or pi x Diameter ) for the circumference length plus some clearance extra length.....
b) Oh yes---I remember now seeing the 1/4-ing jig he lent you....No probs there then.... He and I may have a few personal differences it's true but I'd trust his manufacturing abilities 24 / 7.
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JonL
Elder Statesman
WWSME (Wiltshire)
Posts: 2,907
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Post by JonL on Dec 14, 2018 10:25:22 GMT
You have to open up a reply box for the red text, its not available in the quick reply one under the posts. There is a colour pallette button, you can change the text colour there.
Track length should be ok without the tender I think (building that is a long way off!).
Thanks for all the tips, much appreciated.
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Post by terrier060 on Dec 14, 2018 12:02:48 GMT
Please use yellow rather than black - black and red don't go well together as text!
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Post by simplyloco on Dec 14, 2018 12:13:49 GMT
Please use yellow rather than black - black and red don't go well together as text! I agree: makes me see red!John
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JonL
Elder Statesman
WWSME (Wiltshire)
Posts: 2,907
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Post by JonL on Dec 14, 2018 19:11:46 GMT
Sorry!
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Post by GeorgeRay on Dec 14, 2018 21:44:45 GMT
Please also remember that some people use black on white and yellow is nearly invisible on white. For some reason the default on this bulletin board is white on black which is not the easiest combination to read. Those of us who prefer a less eye straining combination use white on black.
George Ray
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baldric
E-xcellent poster
Posts: 208
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Post by baldric on Dec 14, 2018 22:47:56 GMT
On a mobile phone the default is black on white so perhaps use of colour is a bad idea....
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Post by delaplume on Dec 15, 2018 0:30:38 GMT
Hello everyone,
I've just been chatting with some auld pharty bagz I met down the Pub called "4930Hagley" and he tells me that when he haunted these hallowed threads you could change the Green wallpaper to a light Blue and with that came Black characters on a white desktop.....Much easier on the eye, allegedly !!
But time and age have taken their toll and he can't remember how it's done !!... (or afford a pint either )
Anyone know how it's done ??
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JonL
Elder Statesman
WWSME (Wiltshire)
Posts: 2,907
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Post by JonL on Dec 16, 2018 20:13:35 GMT
I made my first home-made tool tonight from scraps I had around the workshop: A trammel. I've attempted to harden the tips a little with heat and oil but I'm sure they are hard enough for my purposes. I've checked them and they are square so I can progress on to the measuring of the axle distances! But another night, I'm knackered... The screws I've used are from aircraft circuit breakers, we throw hundreds of them away so I bought a tap of the right size and have found them very useful for a lot of projects. Thanks to everyone who gave me advice, I'm very grateful.
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Post by David on Dec 17, 2018 2:01:30 GMT
Nice trammel! You'll probably get much better measurements than I did. I sat the crank pins on parallels, measure over them with calipers and subtract the dia of one crankpin. I measured about a 0.75mm difference between one side an the other on centers. I was pretty dirty about that.
I made the rods to suit and the wheels went around nicely the first time I put it together, then I took the wheels off, put them back on, and got a bad tight spot! I had to make an eccentric bush.
I can only think I didn't mark things clearly enough and either flipped a wheel set or exchanged the front and middle axles.
It only occurred to me later that I should have made the rods the same and used an eccentric bush to begin with. Too late now.
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Post by delaplume on Dec 17, 2018 2:04:22 GMT
Well done "Mr Sideways" ......these home-made tools will still be with you in years to come, I'll bet..
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Lisa
Statesman
Posts: 806
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Post by Lisa on Dec 17, 2018 2:23:18 GMT
Hello everyone, I've just been chatting with some auld pharty bagz I met down the Pub called "4930Hagley" and he tells me that when he haunted these hallowed threads you could change the Green wallpaper to a light Blue and with that came Black characters on a white desktop.....Much easier on the eye, allegedly !! But time and age have taken their toll and he can't remember how it's done !!... (or afford a pint either ) Anyone know how it's done ?? If you click on 'Profile' at the top of the page, then 'Edit Profile' on the right, then 'Settings' on the left, you'll see a little drop-down box labelled 'Forum Theme'; you can change the way the forum displays there, there's a few options.
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Post by delaplume on Dec 17, 2018 2:25:43 GMT
Hello everyone, I've just been chatting with some auld pharty bagz I met down the Pub called "4930Hagley" and he tells me that when he haunted these hallowed threads you could change the Green wallpaper to a light Blue and with that came Black characters on a white desktop.....Much easier on the eye, allegedly !! But time and age have taken their toll and he can't remember how it's done !!... (or afford a pint either ) Anyone know how it's done ?? If you click on 'Profile' at the top of the page, then 'Edit Profile' on the right, then 'Settings' on the left, you'll see a little drop-down box labelled 'Forum Theme'; you can change the way the forum displays there, there's a few options. Thanks Lisa
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Post by jon38r80 on Dec 17, 2018 17:01:12 GMT
As a result of Lisa's post above , changed the 'theme'. now have easily readable black letters on a white background. Wish Id know about it before. Thanks Lisa
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Post by 92220 on Dec 17, 2018 17:23:10 GMT
Before you start give a little thought to the steel you will be using. I used some BDMS once to make a rod & it ended up like a banana when I unclamped it from the mill. Black has less stress in it but you have to get the scale of first. Paul <iframe width="34.180000000000064" height="3.240000000000009" style="position: absolute; width: 34.180000000000064px; height: 3.240000000000009px; z-index: -9999; border-style: none;left: 15px; top: -5px;" id="MoatPxIOPT1_90605562" scrolling="no"></iframe> <iframe width="34.180000000000064" height="3.240000000000009" style="position: absolute; width: 34.18px; height: 3.24px; z-index: -9999; border-style: none; left: 1638px; top: -5px;" id="MoatPxIOPT1_39190150" scrolling="no"></iframe> <iframe width="34.180000000000064" height="3.240000000000009" style="position: absolute; width: 34.18px; height: 3.24px; z-index: -9999; border-style: none; left: 15px; top: 102px;" id="MoatPxIOPT1_39813565" scrolling="no"></iframe> <iframe width="34.180000000000064" height="3.240000000000009" style="position: absolute; width: 34.18px; height: 3.24px; z-index: -9999; border-style: none; left: 1638px; top: 102px;" id="MoatPxIOPT1_40552227" scrolling="no"></iframe> I used BMS for most of my rods and had no problems with bowing. The trick is to fully anneal the steel before machining, by getting it up to bright red heat all over and keeping it at that for about 5 minutes, then cover it up with good insulating material and leave it to cool naturally. I usually do my annealing as the last job before packing up for the evening. That way it has plenty of time to cool slowly, ready it's ready to machine the next day. Bob.
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JonL
Elder Statesman
WWSME (Wiltshire)
Posts: 2,907
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Post by JonL on Dec 17, 2018 18:16:51 GMT
Not very obvious in this picture but I got the components up to around 400 degrees C according to the colour. Hopefully that will have eased any internal stresses. I let them cool completely before moving them.
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Post by builder01 on Dec 17, 2018 19:01:06 GMT
I annealed all of my laser cut parts in the same way. I also attempted to straighten these parts before any machine work began. I did the straightening before the annealing. After the machine work was complete, the parts remained quite straight and flat. annealing also has the benefit of softening up the laser cut edge, which is sometimes quite hard.
David
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Post by Deleted on Dec 17, 2018 21:04:33 GMT
Hi Nobby
Those look good sir, will save you a little time on machining. Did these come from Malcolm of MEL?.. it's just that Malcolm in the past has used HRPO steel for his Rod blanks.If so it would be worth checking with him as HRPO steel doesn't need annealing plus I suspect any heating would remove the protective 'oil' process to stop the steel from rusting. Your's may not be from Malcolm or HRPO but thought it best to mention it in case you're getting more in the future.
Regards
Pete
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