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Post by midlandp4 on May 16, 2019 23:56:12 GMT
Hello, I’ve just commenced building a 5” gauge Stirling Single Locomotive. It’s the Reeves version, with plans by Joe Scarfe, revised by Piddington.. is there anyone here who has successfully run one of these and experienced adequate traction for at least the driver? If so, could you advise the configuration of the coil springs used on the driving axle? That is to say, the outside diameter of the coil, the swg of the wire and the uncompressed length of each spring. I recently completed a 5” gauge Midland Spinner which has plenty of traction. However it is a double frame locomotive with 4 axle boxes on the driving axle, with a pair of coils on each axle box. As the Stirling only has 2 axle boxes on the driving axle, I assume the two pairs of coils will have to be much stiffer. I would appreciate advice on this.
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Post by thumpersdad on May 17, 2019 6:41:09 GMT
If you buy laser cut main frames from Reeves check the dimensions, particularly the position of the cut out for the cylinder and the heights of the two lobes on the top of the frames (one above the cylinders and one above the driving wheels).
I replaced mine with ones from Model Engineers Laser.
Eric
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Post by Deleted on May 17, 2019 6:49:43 GMT
Just to back up what Eric said, the frames on my Doncaster from Reeves (a birthday present) were wrong, I later bought a set from Malcolm from MEL. Great service and accurate work, had one small issue with the position of the hornstay slots but nothing like Reeves which had the lightening holes where the star stay needs to bolt too.
Pete
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Post by Cro on May 17, 2019 7:26:15 GMT
I have my grandfathers Single and it runs beautifully and pulls driver and 3/4 kids, probably do 3 adults ok.
Will have to look at the springs but its currently tucked away in a display cabinet so not to easy to get out and check.
Adam
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Post by qreidford on May 29, 2019 19:47:08 GMT
Hi, I’ve not forgotten your question on springs but distracted on boiler cladding so loco is not (yet) upside down. I used two fairly hefty coils on each axle box and I believe I used stainless welding rods about 1/16” dia. I’ll check if I have a photo somewhere and when I get the change I’ll give dims. Including uncompressed length. I be fair I had more problems with trailing axle springs which also need to be fairly hefty and the shaft around which the spring sits needs careful measured to avoid clashing with the track. I seriously considered making proper leaf springs but chickened out! Because I used a large double action hand pump in the tender (I had the castings available but it fills the boiler in about 20 strokes) but it is heavy and I used two coils springs one inside the other but eventually just used beefed up coils on the trailing axle set to take the weight. I’ll look for main spring photo but if I fail, apologies now Not brilliant but may help Cheers Q
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Alan
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 281
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Post by Alan on May 31, 2019 14:01:56 GMT
I like photos like this, it shows all sorts that are not obvious on the drawings such as the tear stretcher thats 'upside down'. Must turn mine some day before i get too far.
Keep up the good work.
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Post by mjc43 on Feb 15, 2024 20:04:04 GMT
Among other non-obvious things is the water pump offset from centre. When the engine is down on its springs the central eccentric for the pump can foul the underside of the boiler. Moving it away from centre give a better chance of not fouling.
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