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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Apr 2, 2008 8:58:17 GMT
Now I remember this problem , I have to look at the engine to ensure what I did , I think I cut the frames and rivet on inside frames in front and every thing fell in place .I am sure I did NOT bend them.These days I forget what I did yesterday .  I am sorry I looked and I did bend the frames as required . |
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Post by garethp on Apr 2, 2008 13:02:45 GMT
You've got me thinking now! I think I'll be in my parents attic at the weekend, I cant remember bends in the frames but it's a while since the metal or the drawings have seen the light of day.
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Smifffy
Statesman
Rock'n'Roll!
Posts: 943
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Post by Smifffy on Apr 2, 2008 18:04:07 GMT
...yesterday ? When was that ?
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Post by derwent on Apr 2, 2008 22:42:18 GMT
Hi Orville
I built the model Reeves are useing a photo of for there 5" single, it is a 3 1/2
gauge , scratch built by me,I made all the pattern and casting useing G.N.R.and Jacksons drawings and a lot of photos, I have some photo taken during construction. This is the first loco I built Im still on with the second. I bent my frames but I think Shawki,s idea is the more practical . Derwent
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Post by Deleted on Apr 7, 2008 21:09:32 GMT
That's it everyone, Ive decided to build the Stirling, I just hope I don't find out for myself why there are so many unfinished and join that club. Thanks for all the advice and I'll keep you posted on the progress.  |
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Post by chris vine on Apr 7, 2008 21:58:02 GMT
Hi Orville,
Just make sure you leave enough bogie side travel, and maybe a bit more on the other wheels as well, to negotiate whatever curves you will meet.
On the original, Stirling himself had trouble with this. to the point that he even made the treads of the bogie wheels narrower than standard. Can you imagine the commitees of safety engineers allowing someone to make a locomotive with narrow wheels today?
In order to get as much traction as possible from the single drivers you can arrange for almost all the weight to be on them. This can either be done by making the springs on the driving axle very stiff and then have the bogie and trailing wheels on very soft springs. Or you could do it the other way round and have fairly stiff springs on the carrying wheels and soft springs on the driver. This latter way round will need to have a lot of pre load on the soft driver springs so that they still carry most of the weight.
working sanders too if you can bear the thought of sand only a few inches from the bearings...
It will be a most satisfactory model I am sure.
Chris.
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Post by welshy on May 5, 2008 22:15:16 GMT
I have been building the Reeves stirling, the first items i purchased were the drawing of the main frames and the steel for the same. On recieving and looking over the drawing i was a bit a bit dubious about cutting out the frames and then having to tweak them in a metal folder it was a bit daunting. But i hacked away at the metal until finished and then spent an hour or so at the Gabro folder. The result was a very strong pair of frames when bolted up to the stretchers etc. What i,m trying to say is that the thought was worse than the doing. I now have a fully assembled chassis with tender after much persistance. if i can be of any help just contact I can supply pics of the chassis so far. Regards Mike
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Post by Deleted on Jul 2, 2008 16:06:45 GMT
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dva
Seasoned Member
Posts: 110
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Post by dva on Aug 29, 2008 20:47:04 GMT
Before I started on my Fowler 4f I really wanted to built a Stroudley of the Gladstone type. I couldn't find any info and thought that going to York and taking hundreds of pictures, then doing all the drawing would be a very long process. I did manage to get a general assembly drawing from York.
However, reading the following gives me hope....
A search through the ME indexes reveals a mention by Bill Hughes in 'Smoke Rings' Volume 139 Issue 3464 ( May 1973) of the 'untimely' death of Joseph Scarth at the age of 53. It would appear he was a member of the Brighouse and Halifax SMEE.
Quote " Joe was a good craftsman who built good models, with a penchant for old timers like the Stirling "Single". Many readers will no doubt recall this genial personality with his 5 inch gauge "Gladstone" at the first I.M.L.E.C. at Illshaw Heath"....
Does anyone have any info on this loco ?
Before I get too far into the 4f .
regards
Dave
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dva
Seasoned Member
Posts: 110
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Post by dva on Aug 30, 2008 11:13:54 GMT
By the way, by 'of the Gladstone type' I do, of course, mean B type.
Dave
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Post by welshy on Sept 4, 2008 22:37:45 GMT
Hi Orville did you take the plunge and start on the Stirling after?
Mike
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Alan
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 285
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Post by Alan on Sept 6, 2008 21:08:55 GMT
I started building two to the reeves design. Generally happy with everything so far. i was warned that the cylinder castings are just about up to the job and that 'maid of kent'(Ithink) cylinders are better.
Front bogie does not have much room for side to side movement although on first site it should have loads untill you put bits together.
No clearence between drivers and boiler and it was suggested to me to tweak the boiler a bit.
I started mine 10 years ago when Reeves were Reeves and did a good job with people who knew their stuff. (I think one of the girls at the new reeves is pretty good, but i dont think she knows how to use a hammer)
Frame is waisted at the front. Not really scarry. Make a quick jig up if you are worried
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Post by welshy on Sept 7, 2008 20:34:50 GMT
Alan, is your boiler built to the revised drawings? although i have not yet received the boiler for my Stirling (ordered from western models) i have checked the clearance and have have about 3/16" each side, little clearance i admit but enough.
Have you had either of yours running yet?
Mike
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Alan
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 285
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Post by Alan on Sept 8, 2008 8:44:52 GMT
welshy. I have had one boiler made to the latest drawings. its still in its delivery packaging.I did go up to Norfolk to buy a completed boiler some years ago only to find it was not to the drawings that i was working to and i was not prepared to make significant changes just to save a few quid and then have two technically different locos. It does fit between the wheels, just(but no cleading) I have not finished the cylinders as yet and this is the next task on the list when i get some time to play with the stirling. I have a few other projects that have priority.All these other projects take up space and i now find myself hemmed into my workshop with no room to move (vintage motorbike(s)Large Prarie with super detail.
Im not one to play with my build, i just enjoy my time in the workshop.
I tried to encourage a newcomer by helping him build his own loco in my workshop. We were building 'Jack and Jill' from the Reeves range. The loco is a lovely little engine and relatively simple to make. Newcomer unable to maintain intrest/cashflow to complete so thats another 1/2 built. I have found the new reeves difficult to deal with at times when all of the other major dealers have made such an effort on there delivery and technical sides
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Post by Deleted on Sept 9, 2008 19:51:33 GMT
Hi
Does anyone know what the difference is between the original boiler, and the revised one?
regards
Trevor
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Alan
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 285
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Post by Alan on Sept 9, 2008 21:37:08 GMT
The boiler that i looked at some years ago had only 2 superheater tubes. (or was it three and the new boiler has two). I never got that close when i noticed the variation.
I have done a bit to my stirling recently(in the last year) I made the axle box covers for the tender. I left the whole project because i could not work out a simple way of making them. The upteen years later i had a brainwave and just had to make them. One pleasent evening later i had two sets made and in primer.
I think the reason why so many stirlings never get finished is the fact that their is no book of words. Whilst this is not really a problem, when you have a brain blockage (as above) you have not got an easy referance to help.
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Post by welshy on Sept 9, 2008 23:17:09 GMT
The original boiler drawings had a firebox which was too large to fit in the frames if made to the drawings, this was the main reason for revising the drawings and obviously a very serious problem.
Alan what was the problem you encountered on the axle box covers and is your stirling finished now?
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Alan
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 285
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Post by Alan on Sept 10, 2008 12:20:48 GMT
welshy. I had no problems on the axle box covers. But making 12, i wanted to have a system where they all looked the same with the minimum of fiddling about. They look so simple to look at and eventually to make.
My Stirlings are not finished, but they form a nice little fall back job when i just fancy doing somthing for the fun of doing it.
My main focus is restoring a 1949 BSA motorcycle, anybody got a dynamo/ and a 5"Prairie thats got so much delicate bits on it will never be a reliable/regular runner. I need to get these finished to get some of my workshop back.
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Post by welshy on Sept 10, 2008 20:49:39 GMT
Alan
Sounds like your having a lot of fun, I restored a 1973 BMW R90 some years ago- a lot of work but rewarding to ride afterwards. If you have any photos of your Stirlings i would be keen to seem them., is the prairie the shortland one?
Regards Mike
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Alan
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 285
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Post by Alan on Sept 10, 2008 21:07:37 GMT
Yes its lots of fun, but loads of heartache. i keep thinking of getting a proper job and getting someone else to do all the work on my projects. i only work part time at the moment because im too busy playing with my toys!
I will take some digi photos in the next day or so, so you can see them.
Another point i have remembered. The axle pump has to be fitted on the skew because of clearance problems
Alan
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