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Post by Jim on Apr 30, 2012 22:05:22 GMT
By golly Geoff you're really nipping along the mainline, it's lucky I'm on the slow goods line or I'd be shunted quick smart The tender water scoop is one of the casting components missing from the parts I was given so I'm taking an extra keen interest in yours. A friend of mine did make the scoop so it could be raised and lowered but the club took a dim view of the suggestion that troughs be put in for topping up on the run. By the way that's not a gum tree outside your window is it? You doing a very nice job Geoff. Jim
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Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on May 8, 2012 22:24:33 GMT
Hi Jim, my wife said that you might think I was dead after been quiet for a week but, my router went on the blink. But no its not a gum tree but a row of Leylandi specially planted to hide the workshop, even a neighbour did'nt know the workshop was there. I've taken the WPU off to photo it, now its an awkward shape so what i did was to photo-copy the WPU from JP drawings and cut it out and stick it on to 18G brass sheet and cut and file around the drawing and hey presto. The holes you see are just construction holes but whats the point in filling them in. Don't follow the drawings that JP drew of the WPU and brake shafts as these would try to bend as you were drawing up or down. Follow Les Warnetts 9F drawings on the subject as these have joints on them. I still have'nt got round to finishing off the V3,so if the coming sunday is fine i'll take the boiler down to the club and get an out of frames test. After that theres a B1 to be put together and people think you've all the time in the world when your retired, what a pity. Well Jim keep up the good work. Geoff (Carlisle). Attachments:
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Post by Jim on May 9, 2012 8:26:00 GMT
That is a lovely water scoop you have fabricated Geoff which means that I can't moan anymore about missing castings and having to fabricate replacements. Like you I have used printed drawings as patterns and saved much time in marking out to get the correct profiles etc. Now I'd better get back to my boiler Jim
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Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on May 27, 2012 15:31:03 GMT
Hi Jim and Reg, this is the set up that i have made and having difficulty in bending the 16G hard brass sheet. Annealing the part where the bend takes place may distort the sheet, but anneal that very may not, and i cannot take the risk without advice. As you will see Reg my jig is very similiar to yours. Geoff (Carlisle) Attachments:
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Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on May 27, 2012 15:38:41 GMT
The jig with the V3 Enterprise in the background. Geoff (Carlisle) Attachments:
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Post by Jim on May 28, 2012 1:19:45 GMT
The V3 is a lovely model that you have just sitting there in the background Geoff. I'm green with envy I suspect the bowing is due to the side being bent up not being clamped flat. Could you try reversing the sheet so the bowed section is clamped flat on the bench top? Being brass it can be sorted. When I was building the tender tanks for the Burrell I made the mistake of concentrating too much heat in the centre of the steel sheet. The result was the spontaneous creation of a drum for a Jamaican steel band. My attempts to get the bulge out only turned it into a big 'clicker' much to my so called 'mate's amusement By the way I've sent you a PM Geoff with my email details. Keep up the good work, The Clan is looking brilliant. Jim
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Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on May 31, 2012 19:01:37 GMT
Hi Jim and all B.R. loco fans, well success at last as i got the top curve of the B.R.1 tender finished. this was made possible by a M.E. friend who has a bit more muscle than me. A photo will follow when i get the bottom curve in. Les Warnett suggested that 16G thick brass sheet should be used but i reckon 18G could be used just as well. Thats all for now. Geoff (Carlisle).
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Post by RGR 60130 on May 31, 2012 21:45:48 GMT
Hi Geoff,
I used 18 gauge on my BR1B tender and it seems to be just right - not too hard to bend but strong enough for the job. I don't think I'd use 16 gauge again - too much like hard work!!
I look forward to seeing the pictures when you post them.
Reg
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Post by Jim on May 31, 2012 22:08:57 GMT
Thank you Geoff and Reg for the tip off. It will be 18g for me when I get to Boadicea's tender. At this stage the tender consists of the wheels on axles, the bearings and the buffer beam. You can tell I do things in an organized, methodical way. ;D ;D ;D
Jim
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Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Jun 2, 2012 12:31:20 GMT
HI all . This picture shows the tender side sheet, the top edge has been cut but still requires to be filed true, which will be a job,that is to hold it. It will be filed 90 degrees to the bent part so it will take a nice fillet of soft-solder to the bunker side. I'm still a bit bothered about the lower bending job at the moment, take courage my dear boy! Geoff (Carlisle) Attachments:
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Post by RGR 60130 on Jun 2, 2012 18:45:05 GMT
Hi Geoff,
So far so good - there is probably someone, somewhere who had a disaster getting the first bend in the correct place so have faith! If you already have some of the bulkheads made you can use them as templates when doing the second bend. If not, then no one will notice if your bulkheads have to be a touch taller or shorter than on the plan. Marking the start of the bottom 90 degree bend is the next critical operation. You will probably check this 101 times and then some more. Align the mark very carefully on your bender and clamp it down with every clamp you have. A sheet of news paper underneath helps hold it and also helps prevent scratches if it does move. Be decisive and pull the metal round the former in one go. Too much 'bit at a time' can cause work hardening. I went for about 70 degrees on the first shot. Due to the brass sheet springing back you may find the bend is starting a couple of mm lower than your line. A bit of visualisation and precision guesswork is required if this is the case. On the last one I did, I moved the side sheet about 2mm on the bender then went for the full 90 degree bend. Thankfully it came out OK.
Good luck and keep on posting the pictures.
Reg
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Post by Jim on Jun 2, 2012 22:26:54 GMT
Hi Geoff,
Well I can only say that I think you're doing a great job forming the curves and it will all turn out to be a tip top job. It's always an anxious time when you're doing these jobs as you worry about this or that going wrong. I know, I work myself up into a high old state especially with the boiler but it all works out and afterwards you wonder what all the worry was about. So as you say 'take Courage lad' though come to think of it you may have to opt for a soothing ale, I think Courage have long closed. ;D ;D
Jim
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Jun 3, 2012 9:35:07 GMT
This is my opinion only , I used 18G brass once on one tender and while soldering the joints (soft solder ) one side warped , may be my fault , never used `18G again , always 16G , harder to work with but stiffer , as I said this is my experience .
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Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Jun 3, 2012 20:37:29 GMT
Hi all. thank you all for your pointers and support, this photo shows the brass sheet clamped on to the milling machine table. I was not going to chance machining the bent edge straight as this was frought with danger .So I hand filed it across the way and not straight on for obvious reasons. To-morrow when I pluck up courage I"ll put the 90 deg. set in. I"ll be a much happier man when its done. Geoff (Carlisle). Attachments:
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Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Jun 6, 2012 19:15:22 GMT
Hi all. Success at last when the 90 deg. curve was put in. I got my neighbour who is a weight lifter to lift the roller up with ease, and i could'nt move it, he says it was a p::s. But the next problem is getting the second side sheet the same,wish me luck! Geoff (Carlisle). Attachments:
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Post by RGR 60130 on Jun 6, 2012 21:20:59 GMT
It's looking good Geoff and lessons learnt from the first side should make the second one easier. I enjoy building tenders because you see a big chunk of your loco coming together without spending hundreds of hours to get there.
Do keep posting the pictures
Reg
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Andrew C
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 447
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Post by Andrew C on Jun 6, 2012 21:25:36 GMT
Looking good Geoff Can a make an observation? The sharp points on the vertical plate will shred your wrist. I known that from experience. The way it lines up with the cab roof gives four sharp points. They are a real pain. As to a solution you still have time. Have a look et the station road steam video of Lord Hurcomb I would draw your attention to the opening between cab and tender. If I can find the link I'll post it Andrew Attachments:
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Post by RGR 60130 on Jun 6, 2012 23:08:07 GMT
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Andrew C
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 447
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Post by Andrew C on Jun 7, 2012 3:30:45 GMT
Thanks Reg
Have a look at the overhead shot you can just make out that the split is at full coal space width. It's also visible in the video about 10-14 seconds in.
Andrew
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Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Jun 7, 2012 21:09:14 GMT
Thank you all for those kind remarks and tips. I have just come in from the workshop having drilled a few holes in the brass angle for the front corner of the tender.The angle was super-glued in position while it was drilled. The next job will be to drill holes in a former done in the lathe or milling machine, then transfered to the side sheet and drilled through. Now we'll see what tomorrow brings. Geoff (Carlisle).
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