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Post by Jim on Jun 7, 2012 23:01:42 GMT
Well done Geoff and the photos are a great source of information which I'm carefully noting. Jim
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Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Jun 8, 2012 21:43:47 GMT
Hi Andrew. I get the message,I would have to cut a chunk of it out,but hopefully to replace these pieces for show when the loco is not being used.
Geoff (Carlisle).
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Andrew C
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 447
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Post by Andrew C on Jun 8, 2012 22:16:20 GMT
Hi Geoff Yes that's right but as you say it can go back in when on display. And I assume the missing middle bit does not exist yet so you are in a better position then me It will be worth changing things while you still can. Its a little late for me but I'll have a ponder tomorrow. after I've fitted the injector supply. Andrew
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Post by donashton on Jun 10, 2012 18:46:20 GMT
Hi All,
I'm admiring the fine work from these Riddles Pacific people. The sheet bending is particularly interesting (been there...).
On the point of wrist grazing corners I foresee another annoyance ahead. Paint doesn't like the edges and in use these edges quickly take on an unsightly brass line. Even a rather fine radius on these edges will help a great deal.
Don
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Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Jun 10, 2012 19:44:50 GMT
Hi Don. You are quite right but on this particular bulkhead it will be rather difficult to cut down as been suggested. A lot easier on other tenders but again not on these. I think that i will sally around that job for a bit longer
Geoff (Carlisle).
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Andrew C
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 447
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Post by Andrew C on Jun 10, 2012 21:30:10 GMT
Hi Geoff Those corners are sharp Mine have had another lump out of my finger plus numerous scratches on my arms and knocked more coal off the shovel than enough today Give me time to think. I'll make a new post when I have a solution Andrew
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Post by donashton on Jun 10, 2012 21:43:15 GMT
Andrew,
For running purposes why not split a bit of rubber tube down one side and simply press along the offending edge? May need renewal now and again, that's all.
Don
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Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Jun 11, 2012 20:32:53 GMT
Hi all. I"m feeling a bit disappionted to-night as i"ve been working on the other side sheet of the tender and seem to be getting nowhere. The length of the side sheet is just over 21" with the 25deg. bend at the top.Now lay the sheet down on a surface plate and you could spin it round as it"s got a slight bow in it. I have packed it up at both ends and clamped the middle down and still no, the strength is in the curve,I never had this with the first one, and i'm getting rather tired of the second one.
Geoff (Carlisle).
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jackrae
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,333
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Post by jackrae on Jun 11, 2012 20:48:03 GMT
Chin up old boy When you put the bends in the bows should disappear. Make a test piece in "tin plate" with a bow and then bend to confirm (or otherwise) that the bow disappears. Jack
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Post by Jim on Jun 11, 2012 21:31:42 GMT
Have you tried annealing the brass Geoff? Annealing would relieve the stresses and make the brass more malleable.
Jim
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Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Jun 13, 2012 21:36:13 GMT
Hi all, well this is the latest photo of the tender. The side sheet is riveted to the brass angle with 1/16" brass rivets flushed on the outside without a trace,then 10BA bolts from the angle to the bulkhead. The other side sheet has got the go ahead to do the final bend. As for annealing Jim,I measured the electric oven but the side sheet was too long to get in. Geoff (Carlisle). Attachments:
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Post by Jim on Jun 14, 2012 11:26:23 GMT
The tender and its side panel is coming along beautifully Geoff, I'm feeling quite envious and can only hope mine turns out as nicely.
On annealing, I've never thought of using an oven to anneal brass, I've always used a propane torch passing it backwards and forwards over the sheet or bar until it starts to change to a clean highly polished appearance under the flame.
Those bevel gears are very nice too. It's all looking very good indeed Geoff.
Jim.
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Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Jun 14, 2012 21:36:37 GMT
Hi Jim,thank you for those kind words of encouragement , but if you require any meccano gear wheels just type in 'Meccanoman' into your computer and can get aprintout of all their gear wheels at very reasonable prices. Geoff (Carlisle).
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Post by Mike Clarke on Jun 14, 2012 22:59:26 GMT
That's coming on beautifully.
(Note to self - I need one of those chairs in the workshop!!!!). It even has a cup rest on each arm!
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Post by Jim on Jun 15, 2012 10:28:10 GMT
Thanks for the link to 'Meccanoman' Geoff. I shall get in contact with them. I've put an order in for one of those arm chairs too though slightly modified to hold a soothing ale which I really need after machining off the base flange on my second safety valve by mistake. Jim
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Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Jun 21, 2012 15:21:50 GMT
Hi all. Sorry for being quiet of late but i have a bit of a problem. The left hand side , side sheet finished up 1/16" higher than the right therefore i'm a bit pi++ed off,and thinking of abandoning the job for now and getting on with other parts of the loco. Geoff (Carlisle). # *888 Attachments:
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Post by Jim on Jun 22, 2012 0:10:31 GMT
I can appreciate your feelings Geoff, my boiler is giving me the same kind of grief. Like you I've turned to making other things like the safety valves and the Everlasting blowdown valve..much more satisfying. I will get back to the boiler ....when I've calmed down Jim
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Post by RGR 60130 on Jun 22, 2012 8:21:25 GMT
Hi Geoff,
Don't despair! Just put the left side back in your bending jig and bend it some more to move the bottom curve up 1/16". You'll probably end up with a 100 degree bend or something similar but that's not a big problem. To preserve the bit of the bend you want to keep while straightening the bottom edge to get back to 90 degrees you'll need a length of round bar to go inside the corner and a length of steel angle to go on the outside. Securely clamp the tender side between the two. One edge of the steel angle should be positioned to coincide with the bottom limit of the required 90 degree bend. The bit sticking out that will attach to the sole plate can now can now be bashed / persuaded to the correct angle. This is one of those jobs that is easier to do than to describe and hopefully you can understand what I mean from my description.
Reg
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Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Jun 22, 2012 14:53:28 GMT
Hi Jim and Reg, firstly I knew something was up Jim because you've been quiet for too long. Now Reg i've read through your article several times but 16G brass is solid and there is a lot of stength in the curve, I think you should cross the county border into Cumbria and do the job for me, no I'm only kidding. I've no doubt I will get it right as this is my third loco and I've always had problems. I've always said that if you build 3 loco's in your lifetime then you've done well.
Geoff (Carlisle).
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Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Jun 30, 2012 17:47:49 GMT
Hi all specially Jim,well here's the resting place for the tender for the time being. At the moment the two sides are both the same hight but that was achieved by twinking the angle of the side sheet which is no answer. I liked Reg's idea but that would still be a dockyard job.So at present I'm working on the fore end of the loco the whistle to be exact.When it comes to the regulator i have planned to use the Martin Evans B1, disc in a tube mounted cross ways on. The regulator spindle would be staight on. This method used on my B1 is ideal and has never given any trouble. Now the door manager is just the workshop door. Geoff (Carlisle). Attachments:
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