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Post by RGR 60130 on Sept 19, 2012 23:21:03 GMT
Hi Geoff, It's coming on a treat now. The attached picture shows the way I did the rear bulkhead on my BR1C tender which is of fairly similar construction. I put 'mouse holes' along the bottom edge to allow the water to flow and a couple of bigger holes in so that I could get my hand through to clean any crud out. There's also a scallop out of the bottom part to clear the hand pump. I fitted a smaller bulkhead half way down the coal chute to give it a bit of support. A few years ago I made a Heilan Lassie tender and bent up the back of the coal chute to form the bulkhead and that was quite successful. There's no right way or wrong way, just whatever seems right to you. Keep up the good work! Reg Attachments:
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Post by Jim on Sept 19, 2012 23:59:44 GMT
Thank you Reg and Geoff,
As I slowly work on the tender axle boxes and frames I'm storing all this info for when it's my turn to do the tender body.
I must say both of you are doing a grand job and I just hope Boadicea's tender turns out as nicely as yours have.
Regards
Jim
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Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Oct 13, 2012 16:23:51 GMT
Hi all.Here's the latest photo's of the B.R.1 tender, with the tender top plate bolted on. The copper tube for the water filling has not yet been solded in yet, i'll wait till the lid has been made first.Now the water pick-up dome is made out of solid alluminium and bolted on with two 4BA brass screws. The ladder is cut out of 1/16" brass sheet and the rungs turned down to 1/16" dia. at the ends and, one side was silver solded in and the other side loctited in. Why you might ask? well soldering them in can cause distortion. What will come next is the hand rails and the lamp irons and that will take a week or two. Geoff (Carlisle). Attachments:
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Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Oct 17, 2012 11:09:35 GMT
Hi Reg. This is the method i've adopted, cutting out and soldering the half-round brass beading on,plus the up-right which took a full day but, it's still to be screwed down to the floor. When i come to make the water bulkhead i may have to make it in 3 parts owing to the awkward and complex shape. Geoff (Carlisle). Attachments:
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Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Oct 19, 2012 20:42:56 GMT
Hi all, this photo shows the side-sheet taken down in order to fit the water bulkhead, it's quite an awkward piece to file and fit and using a feeler gauge in order to get a close fit. I decided to make it in two pieces as there is so much to cut out. Geoff (Carlisle). Attachments:
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Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Oct 19, 2012 20:50:26 GMT
There's more , this shows half the bulkhead partially fitted waiting for the top part to be shaped. Geoff (Carlisle). Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Oct 19, 2012 21:14:31 GMT
Lovely work Reg.... very impressive...
Pete
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Post by Jim on Oct 20, 2012 3:17:24 GMT
As always Geoff your work sets the standard, very, very nice indeed.
I'm saving your photos Geoff as I've started on Boadicea's tender and am finding them invaluable in providing ideas for interpreting my rather faded plans. I'll post some photos when there's a bit more progress.
Thanks again, Jim
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Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Oct 24, 2012 20:41:21 GMT
Hi all , this photo shows the wet bulkhead made in two parts , on the back i riveted a plate to join them to-gether. On the wet side i sealed the join with soft solder.Although this was not easy to make it does fit like a glove. Geoff (Carlisle) Attachments:
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Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Oct 24, 2012 20:49:46 GMT
There's more, this shows the plate placed in position and not quite fitted in yet, as i have said before this is not an easy tender to make. Geoff (Carlisle). Attachments:
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Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Nov 1, 2012 22:16:32 GMT
Hi all, this photo is very similar to the previous one, except to the trained eye. The wet bulkhead is fitted to the floor and sides.The two side windows are cut out but i can't see how you can use 1/2 round beading as JP says to go round the hole, so i'll have to cut it out of sheet which will be very time consuming. Now the next job will be to make the hopper sides & floor which i'm not looking forward to doing , (what you see at the moment is cardboard to give me some idea of how it will look). The fire iron tunnel will be cut out after the coal hopper is fitted. This tender will have taken a whole 4'x2' brass sheet. Geoff (Carlisle). Attachments:
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Post by Jim on Nov 5, 2012 4:08:02 GMT
Hi Geoff,
I hope you don't mind but I have just copied the photos of your tender draw bar for clarification as my Perrier plans are particularly faded where this component is concerned.
In the meantime I'm part way through cutting out the frames for the tender. It's a long process.
Keep up the great work Geoff.
all the best
Jim
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Post by Deleted on Nov 6, 2012 16:11:22 GMT
The two side windows are cut out but i can't see how you can use 1/2 round beading as JP says to go round the hole, so i'll have to cut it out of sheet which will be very time consuming. I think you will find the spectacles on the tender were cut from brass sheet anyway - have a look at the picture of 70016 in "A pictorial record of British Railways standard steam locomotives" by Talbot (can't give the page number - the pages aren't numbered!)
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jackrae
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,333
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Post by jackrae on Nov 6, 2012 17:26:09 GMT
Geoff,
Just an idea - don't laugh
If you want to use half-round, how about cutting parts for each side with mitred joint; silver solder them together, then fill in the inside radii with a delicate blob of silver solder and finish by filing inside and outside corners to blend. You can then sweat the finished article onto the brass faces using soft solder
jack
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Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Nov 6, 2012 21:30:16 GMT
Dear Jack ,I think that idea would take quite some time to make and prone to failure,but pleased to see you are taking an interest in the Clan,I'll be in touch shortly.
Geoff.
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Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Nov 6, 2012 21:43:47 GMT
Hi Supersevern, Your message regarding the brass window frames, prompted me to have a look in the standard book at a photo of a tender detached from the loco and it clearly shows what you said, thanks a lot
Geoff (Carlisle).
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Post by RGR 60130 on Nov 7, 2012 11:58:35 GMT
This is a picture of a front frame on Britannia's tender as posted on Nigel Fraser Ker's web site here: www.fraserker.com/winson/britannia_pix/page_05.htmAs you can see, the front frame is held with 10 countersunk screws. The back frame is held with 10 brass round head rivets which, if I remember correctly are spaced mid way between the screws on the front. I have close up pictures of the Evening Star frames taken from both sides and I'll try to remember to post them when I get home in a couple of weeks. Reg Attachments:
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Post by Jim on Nov 7, 2012 21:02:03 GMT
You'll need steady hands for those window frames Geoff. You did say ten counter sunk screws per window didn't you Reg? ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Nov 8, 2012 18:02:27 GMT
Hi Jim & Reg, i think it will be a 12BA job here,but i think i can wait a couple of weeks while i make the two foot rests at the rear of the tender with 18G brass. Geoff (Carlisle)
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Post by RGR 60130 on Nov 8, 2012 20:53:25 GMT
Hi Geoff,
EKP have just the screws and rivets you need! I also sent you a PM.
Reg
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