bhk
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Post by bhk on Sept 17, 2013 8:48:40 GMT
Progress Attachments:
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Sept 17, 2013 10:08:26 GMT
Looks very good to me , I like your nice organised workshop .
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bhk
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Post by bhk on Sept 17, 2013 19:23:34 GMT
Thanks Shawki, though the workshops not mine, it's my ships, I work week on week off and build the engine in my off time when I'm onboard. Helps pass the the week
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bhk
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Post by bhk on Sept 20, 2013 0:59:46 GMT
Picked up my laser cutting today, very impressed with the accuracy they have achieved. Now a week of marking out and drilling holes! Attachments:
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bhk
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Post by bhk on Sept 23, 2013 5:57:38 GMT
After getting hold of a Romulus boiler drawing from a chap on the 7 1/4 gauge society forum, I'm now committing to put a proper boiler into my William, slight modification to to the frame and trialling bogie but no biggie. For today spent the day in the workshop marking out parts parts. I found a very interesting article on a lempor ejector, that actually puts some real life recorded figures to the theory. home.ca.inter.net/~mguy/Romulus%20Lempor.htmAttachments:
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bhk
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Post by bhk on Sept 26, 2013 20:39:47 GMT
Hi all,
Starting to put the frames together and wondering what's people's thoughts on using 3/16 aluminium solid round head rivets, I can get these easily and not to mention putting them in is easy but would they be strong enough or do I really need to go with steel
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Post by ejparrott on Sept 27, 2013 6:50:04 GMT
ooo no..not ali! I'm using 1/4" steel rivets on my manning wardle - not easy to put in! For belt and braces approach I have welded the angles to the buffer beams where it won't be seen. The angle to main frames, and all the stretchers, I'm making fitted bolts for, probably in EN16 which I've got, and they'll all be in shear.
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bhk
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Post by bhk on Sept 27, 2013 8:17:32 GMT
Hi ejparrott,
Yeah after reading a bit more aluminium is a really bad choice, think ill go with steel pan head rivets, can get them mail order from the US at a good price and the correct length.
Might be a silly question but do you put them in hot like you would with larger ones?
I did look at socket shoulder bolts which would be excellent for the purpose but can only get Allen head ones at the correct size so would look a bit odd, I guess I could put a radius on the heads to make them look more prototypical.
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Post by ejparrott on Sept 27, 2013 9:03:43 GMT
I'm putting mine in cold, given the kit I guess there;s no reason not to put them in hot.
I'm making my own fitted bolts.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 27, 2013 9:13:32 GMT
hi guys... not sure if suitable for your particular application but had you thought about slotless screws in place of rivets, look just like rivets...BA-bolts.co.uk do them in most sizes.
Regards
Pete
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Post by ejparrott on Sept 27, 2013 10:16:19 GMT
I had, I didn't want the nuts visible behind, but that's just me.....and I've always had trouble tightening them....
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bhk
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Post by bhk on Sept 28, 2013 22:22:12 GMT
Hi Pete,
I was going to use the slot less ba screws on the smokebox door and smokebox ring, though its welded in I want them for the looks.
I just got to get my head into working with small things, everything I do at work and the machinery available to me is geared towards the heavy side of engineering.
Cheers Sean
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bhk
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Post by bhk on Oct 2, 2013 2:39:11 GMT
Another week over on the engine, frames are ready to be erected next week once I get the fastenings sorted, I've just put another laser cutting order in for the fabricated horn blocks, these are made up from steel angle gusseted, there is 40 53/64 gussets to be silver soldered in place before machining square. Also on the order are the plates for my fabricated wheels, these are simply dished discs with counter weights and crankwebs secured by hidden counter sunk screws, after painting you will never know! (I hope) I've also been working on a design for a assembled axle box that mitigates the need to mill anything, I'm going away from roller bearings and sticking with bronze bushings on silver steel axles. For now a picture, never a wasted modelling moment. Cheers Sean Attachments:
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Post by ejparrott on Oct 2, 2013 21:07:54 GMT
Go with iron axleboxes rather than Bronze, better bearing surface.
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bhk
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Post by bhk on Oct 9, 2013 8:42:11 GMT
Hi all, looking for advice on putting the frames together, is there any hints and tips on how to keep things square and inline, I have built up the frame stretchers, but not drilled the holes to attach the frames yet, was planning on clamping them up and drilling the holes in place.
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
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Post by jma1009 on Oct 9, 2013 9:20:44 GMT
i think we all have our own methods for assembling the frames depending on facilities. tapped holes i leave tapping size then open out after drilling through. lots of toolmakers clamps and anything else that comes to hand. fix angles to buffer beams with iron rivets first, drill all the bolt holes in the frames, then bolt everything else with tapped holes through the angles and stretchers etc (i do one end first - requires lots of dismantling and re-erecting). a few temporary stretchers can be turned out of bar to keep everything in line. when rivetting on the horns, the frames will often go out of shape again so be prepared for remedial action to get the frames straight and flat again. on top of the frames and buffer beams (i havent made a loco with a 'straight top' to the frames for many years) i put long pieces of straight bar across to act as an easy visual aid for levels. you might have access to engineers levels. keep the holes for bolts when opened out dead to the OD of the bolts ie fitted bolts with an untapped part at the head end. you may need to make up drill extensions for drilling the sides of the angle through from the frames. dont be tempted to use the next size up drill if you havent got what you need. it is one of these jobs that once you start doing it everything falls into to place and becomes obvious and not difficult. i find most of the time is taken up with dismantling deburring and re-erecting and tapping all the holes - but as stated above do one end first. good luck! cheers, julian
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Post by ejparrott on Oct 9, 2013 12:25:12 GMT
I think fitted bolts are an absolute must for frame erection personally. I machine horns to size and fix to frames, and then set up square to them. Stretchers are left with pilot holes, which are reamed through on assembly, and a fitted bolt made to suit. Its not a 5 minute job, but essential you get it right!
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Post by andrewsleigh on Oct 9, 2013 17:31:45 GMT
with my bagnall chassis at first i machine the horns to size, but had trouble getting them square to eachother and the frames, and stretchers. so i machined new horns, leaving a few thou on the faces. then assembled the frames for good. and put the whole thing upside down on the mill, and used a long end mill to machine the faces. that way i could get the spacing bang on, and everything square to each other.
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,900
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Post by jma1009 on Oct 9, 2013 21:53:27 GMT
i agree with Ed re fitted bolts. start as you mean go on! i also have a bit of a thing re inside cylinder locos in fitting tapered 'keys' between front buffer beam angle and the cylinder block, despite fitting fitted bolts to same.
andrewleigh thats a very impressive set up and pic! well done! after putting my frames together to the buffer beams and stretchers i add the horns by way of rivetting as next step. putting just the frames back to back in the vertical mill (in my case a dore westbury) with a long end mill as you have done i then machine the sides of the horns very carefully - knowing they will all be parallel and dead on size with each other. this is the sort of accuracy the fullsize loco works could only dream about - though the GWR get pretty near with the zeiss optical equipment.
cheers, julian
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bhk
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Post by bhk on Oct 9, 2013 21:59:40 GMT
Cheers for the reply gents, give me the inspiration to get into it this morning, the way I'm going with it in the end is sort of a mixup but its what I have done in the past with large assemblies, currently just bolting up the frames M5 nuts in 5mm holes, then will play with the alignment as needed, once I got it where I want it, clamp up the bolts and ill drill, ream and fit a 3mm harden dowels where required. The horn blocks will be going in the frames later on, and will aligned then using the stock bar for the axlebox. Attachments:
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