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Post by Roger on Mar 23, 2024 19:48:46 GMT
I've just done a little research to see what professional Graphics Designers use for their printing, and it would appear that you can get printers that go up to 2400dpi. The printer I've got only has a resolution of 600dpi, so it looks like it ought to be possible to get 4x the resolution. A couple of the dog walkers that I occasionally bump into are Graphics Designers, so I might tap one of them up to see if they can print me a sheet of them on some quality paper. I've got some Photographic paper somewhere, to I'll see if I can find that.
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Post by chris vine on Mar 23, 2024 23:16:59 GMT
Hi Roger, I’ve printed stuff on photo paper in the past using an inkjet printer. After a year or so the inks start to blur or merge. At least a laser printer would melt the plastic toner onto the paper or sheet, so should be more stable in the longer term. Printing onto vinyl at a sign writer and then laminating over the top as if for an external sign might be best. Not sure of the resolution though. They could print a test in the margin of another job for you to try!! Chris
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Post by steamer5 on Mar 23, 2024 23:50:47 GMT
Hi Roger, If you go down Chris's suggestion route of a sign guy, ask them to print on hi temp vinyl, its good for around 75C continuously, so for our use of a couple of hours a day a few days a month it should be good for years!
Cheers Kerrin
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Post by Roger on Mar 24, 2024 10:06:49 GMT
Hi Roger, I’ve printed stuff on photo paper in the past using an inkjet printer. After a year or so the inks start to blur or merge. At least a laser printer would melt the plastic toner onto the paper or sheet, so should be more stable in the longer term. Printing onto vinyl at a sign writer and then laminating over the top as if for an external sign might be best. Not sure of the resolution though. They could print a test in the margin of another job for you to try!! Chris Hi Chris, I would want to laminate or varnish the print, it's only ink after all. Looking at laser printers, they don't seem to be as high resolution, and aren't popular with Graphics Designers by all accounts. I didn't know that you could print onto Vinyl. In all cases, I think there needs to be some kind of stabilising finish else it's not going to last. I do have a laminator, so maybe high resolution Inkjet printing onto photographic paper and then laminating might work. Actually, I've got some of that Transfer Tape that I could use to protect it. I might give that a go if it's the right sort of finish. Sellotape is a bit shiny, and perhaps a bit thin. There appear to be several commercial printers in our area, and also Ryman's Stationers who claim to have a printing service. I might have a ring round and see what resolution they offer.
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Post by chris vine on Mar 24, 2024 10:50:28 GMT
I have laminated inkjet onto photo paper, but the ink moves horizontally through the paper!
Vinyl might be much better I think, especially if there is a high temperature variety.
C
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Post by Roger on Mar 24, 2024 12:46:53 GMT
I have laminated inkjet onto photo paper, but the ink moves horizontally through the paper! Vinyl might be much better I think, especially if there is a high temperature variety. C Hmmm... I would have thought that printing on Vinyl would be a challenge. Surely ink won't move through photographic paper, that's not really porous? I thin coat of sprayed varnish might fix it permanently, so long as the solvent doesn't disturb it while it cures. I think some experiments are in order.
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Post by nick952 on Mar 24, 2024 21:57:38 GMT
How about printing them as waterslide transfers? Search for "printing waterslide transfers" to find the paper. Apply to the white painted backplate and then if needed varnished.
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Post by chris vine on Mar 24, 2024 23:57:04 GMT
Hi Roger, I think the photographic inkjet papers are coated with an absorbent layer. I guess it must be absorbent to take in sufficient ink to give the vibrant colours. Only the tiniest amount of moisture will probably allow the ink to travel sideways in this layer. I found this article www.shutterbug.com/content/how-long-will-your-digital-prints-lastbryou-may-be-surprised-page-2The part on humidity which I think would be a concern for you: Humidity Fastness Significant exposure to relative humidity higher than about 80 percent can cause colorants to migrate, thereby causing color changes or loss of sharpness. Long exposure to very high humidity can cause microbial growth and discoloration. Test labs can expose prints to elevated humidity for a period of weeks to qualitatively rank the relative humidity fastness of different products based on measured color changes. As with light fade, humidity fastness is typically improved by using the manufacturer's branded paper that is matched to that particular brand of ink.For you, surely an engraved plate, easy for your machines, and then pad printing. You can buy the pads and I am sure a lash-up could be made with a pillar drill etc. Then you can print it with black paint onto metal painted white. Then it really will last a long time and be as crisp as a swiss watch face. You won't have to align the pad accurately with the job, because you can print onto a bigger piece and cut out to match to the design - especially if you printed the circle to cut to!! I am only thinking that if it fades, you may have quite a lot of delicate dismantling to get to the part. Incidentally, that reminds me: do you have an isolating valve so you can pressure test the boiler without damaging the gauge? I didn't do that on Bongo and so have to unscrew the nut from the gauge and fit a blank. All very tricky and fiddly!!! Chris.
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stevep
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,070
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Post by stevep on Mar 25, 2024 9:47:17 GMT
SNIP Incidentally, that reminds me: do you have an isolating valve so you can pressure test the boiler without damaging the gauge? I didn't do that on Bongo and so have to unscrew the nut from the gauge and fit a blank. All very tricky and fiddly!!! Chris. Having an isolating valve to the gauge could be very dangerous - it could be left closed, and you could be left wondering why pressure is being raised, until the safeties lift. I recommend accepting the inconvenience of fiddling with the union. It's safer.
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Post by Roger on Mar 25, 2024 10:35:05 GMT
How about printing them as waterslide transfers? Search for "printing waterslide transfers" to find the paper. Apply to the white painted backplate and then if needed varnished. Thanks for that. This YouTube video shows the procedure, and he's using Decal paper with a white background. I could use this on a thin piece of brass. He uses three coats of Halfords spray varnish on his.
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Post by Roger on Mar 25, 2024 10:40:05 GMT
Hi Roger, I think the photographic inkjet papers are coated with an absorbent layer. I guess it must be absorbent to take in sufficient ink to give the vibrant colours. Only the tiniest amount of moisture will probably allow the ink to travel sideways in this layer. I found this article www.shutterbug.com/content/how-long-will-your-digital-prints-lastbryou-may-be-surprised-page-2The part on humidity which I think would be a concern for you: Humidity Fastness Significant exposure to relative humidity higher than about 80 percent can cause colorants to migrate, thereby causing color changes or loss of sharpness. Long exposure to very high humidity can cause microbial growth and discoloration. Test labs can expose prints to elevated humidity for a period of weeks to qualitatively rank the relative humidity fastness of different products based on measured color changes. As with light fade, humidity fastness is typically improved by using the manufacturer's branded paper that is matched to that particular brand of ink.For you, surely an engraved plate, easy for your machines, and then pad printing. You can buy the pads and I am sure a lash-up could be made with a pillar drill etc. Then you can print it with black paint onto metal painted white. Then it really will last a long time and be as crisp as a swiss watch face. You won't have to align the pad accurately with the job, because you can print onto a bigger piece and cut out to match to the design - especially if you printed the circle to cut to!! I am only thinking that if it fades, you may have quite a lot of delicate dismantling to get to the part. Incidentally, that reminds me: do you have an isolating valve so you can pressure test the boiler without damaging the gauge? I didn't do that on Bongo and so have to unscrew the nut from the gauge and fit a blank. All very tricky and fiddly!!! Chris. Hi Chris, I'm not sure how porous Photographic paper is, it looks very shiny. I'll probably have to try it to find out. I can print something, spray with varnish and then soak it in water. I looked at Pad Printing, but this is incredibly fine. I think I'd struggle to get an acceptable result. Yes, I do have an isolating valve, although I think it would be wise to crack open the union just to make sure it doesn't destroy the guage.
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Post by Roger on Mar 25, 2024 10:41:10 GMT
SNIP Incidentally, that reminds me: do you have an isolating valve so you can pressure test the boiler without damaging the gauge? I didn't do that on Bongo and so have to unscrew the nut from the gauge and fit a blank. All very tricky and fiddly!!! Chris. Having an isolating valve to the gauge could be very dangerous - it could be left closed, and you could be left wondering why pressure is being raised, until the safeties lift. I recommend accepting the inconvenience of fiddling with the union. It's safer. I hear what you're saying, but I don't see that as a huge risk. That's what they have in full size, where you could make the same argument.
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