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Post by charley on Jun 26, 2014 18:50:29 GMT
Hi forum,
I've drilled and tapped holes to hold my tender tank to the tender chassis. What is the best way to seal watertight. Solder the bottom of the brass screws where they extrude from the tank or use Loctite to seal them? The tank is brass.
I'd rather use Loctite if it works. What are your thoughts?
Thanks
Charley
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uuu
Elder Statesman
your message here...
Posts: 2,807
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Post by uuu on Jun 26, 2014 19:48:40 GMT
We've been using some black gunk by Loctite at the pumphouse, alas I don't know the number. But it's pressure tight on boiler fittngs, and is readily disassembled.
Wilf
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Post by ejparrott on Jun 26, 2014 21:13:11 GMT
Loctite 5910 I think it is, we use it at work for sealing machine guards and I use it on the Land Rovers in place of gaskets. Halfords stock it in handy self dispensing cans. Isoflex is a favourite sealing meium, insert all fixings, slosh round the inside, no leaks!
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Post by Deleted on Jun 26, 2014 21:16:01 GMT
Hi CHARLEY---------- why not solder the screws into the tender body ( with the heads on the inside and the legs hanging down ) ---- open out the screwed holes in the chassis to clearance and run nuts up from underneath to clamp the body to the chassis ??
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Post by charley on Jun 26, 2014 22:15:02 GMT
Hagley, that was the original planned idea, but I wondered if I could Loctite them in place rather than solder. We have plenty of Loctite floating around at my local club
I remember using Loctite 242 (I think that was the number) on chilled water pipes to seal them when I was in the Andrew when my Charge Chief wasn't looking lol. The problem was taking them apart at a future date.
Thanks for the answers, I'll see how I get on.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 26, 2014 23:37:30 GMT
----was that on the flash evaps ??(HMS Fisgard then HMS Caledonia, and BEFORE man landed on the moon !!)............Here's my Mk2 idea}-------Thread the tender body, screw the bolts down and seal with loctite ----- drill clearance holes in the chassis ---assemble and nut-up from underneath.. Ta-da!! No Soldering and the screws are positively sealed and locked in place BUT can be removed at any time......
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Post by charley on Jun 27, 2014 8:58:20 GMT
Hayley,
When it says elder statesmen I didn't realise you'd sailed with Nelson. Raleigh then Collingwood. Thanks for the advice. Will do that.
Cheers
Charley
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Post by Deleted on Jun 27, 2014 11:00:17 GMT
On 4472's tender I first soldered nuts to the inside of the soleplate while temporary fitted to the chassis and before the body was built , trouble is they are soft soldered and some gave way after building the body and doing a trial fit to the chassis. No big deal, for those effected I bought the next size up of BA and threaded the soleplate direct as Alan has suggested. IIRC my soleplate is 1.2 or perhaps 1.5 mm thick and good enough to hold the body in place with something like 40 bolts. When the body is fitted for the last time I'll use a mastic of loctite thread sealant to make it water tight, also as Alan states give the holes a little clearance for the bolts to fit, especially if there are many like on mine. If doing this again I would thread the soleplate if thick enough...  Pete |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 27, 2014 12:56:50 GMT
Hayley, When it says elder statesmen I didn't realise you'd sailed with Nelson. Raleigh then Collingwood. Thanks for the advice. Will do that. Cheers Charley --------------Avast there, Shipmate !!--Draw up a bollard, roll some "shag" and have a "sippers" 'o me ration on me!!----Ooooh, arghhh m'deario and 'ow did ee know I was originally a Jenny (WREN)??....NO!, not really... Hayley indeed !! Ho-Ho-ho .......Dear "Uncle" Nelson had an eye for the Ladies, that's for sure...."Old man" Raleigh was always gobbin-off 'bout the need for Basic Training.....whilst "Colly-wobbles" insisted that any Frigates of his would be stone ones....Only the one ever got built for him I think ?? --------- I was ERA Duty Watch on ZULU, a Tribal Class Destroyer in Pompey when the Moon Landing was televised....We all crammed into the small NAFFI messdeck to watch history being made.......... |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 27, 2014 13:42:55 GMT
Hayley, When it says elder statesmen I didn't realise you'd sailed with Nelson. Raleigh then Collingwood. Thanks for the advice. Will do that. Cheers Charley --------- I was ERA Duty Watch on ZULU, a Tribal Class Destroyer in Pompey when the Moon Landing was televised....We all crammed into the small NAFFI messdeck to watch history being made.......... ohhh.. Alan you've my hero.... the tribal class has always been my favourite destroyer from the WW2 era... big beautiful ship ( for a WW2 destroyer that is), I've built a number of models of tribal's over the years both static and working... love them..my son still has the model of HMS Cossack that my late father built over twenty years ago... Pete |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 27, 2014 14:04:44 GMT
Ha! No way! I got a 90% finished 1/96 scale radio controlled model of HMS Cossack! Lovely thing, must either finish it or sell it, it's been sitting in its box for years now!
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Post by runner42 on Jun 28, 2014 6:29:56 GMT
Hi Charley,
hope you don't mind that I am hijacking your post, but I have a problem with my Doris tender in getting it water-tight.
I reached a point where I had a small weep from the front end at the corner of the coal space area. In trying to correct that things have gone from bad to worse. Areas that once were water-tight has developed leaks. I think that my problem has been caused by the fact that I soldered the coal space before the soleplate. I had diffulculty in obtaing a sheet of brass long enough for the soleplate so to get things moving I soldered the coalspace first. But it also maybe the techique I am using.
I am using a propane torch to heat the area of interest and using gravity to assist in getting the solder to stay in the place I am attempting to seal. However being a 3 dimensional construction gravity is also working against me in allowing solder to run from areas mutually perpendicular to the area of interest. Also when I started I was using rosin cored solder that had in built flux and because the size of solder was small excess solder at the joint was not a problem. However, on advice received on this forum I obtained large sticks of plumbers solder and use Baker's fluid. Touch up soldering can only be done on the outside edges of the soleplate and coal-space areas and being chunky sticks I have to wipe the joint with a rag to remove the excess. This is a probem in getting a clean looking joint that's water-tight.
The soleplate has 6BA brass screws soldered on the inside for fixing the tender body to the chassis which were accessible before the soleplate was soldered in place, but now are diffulcult to reach now that the coal space in situ. Overworking the soleplate has caused some of these to either loosen or drop out.
Soft soldering should easily be undertaken and I am concerned that it is causing me so much trouble.
Should I be using either a large copper bit electric soldering iron or a copper bit attached to the propane torch to better control the solder flow? Is there anything fundamental that I am missing?
Any help would be appreciated.
Brian
PS when I get the tender water-tight I have to solder the edging strip to the edges of tender. This looks diffulcult to me any help here is gratefully received.
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Post by charley on Jun 28, 2014 14:15:38 GMT
Hi Brian,
Feel free to hi-jack.
Cheers
Charley
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Post by charley on Jul 22, 2014 20:20:59 GMT
Just thought I'd let you know that I used Loctite 603 and so far so good - success by the looks of it. Thanks for all the advice
Cheers
Charley
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61962
Seasoned Member
Posts: 129 
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Post by 61962 on Jul 22, 2014 23:50:24 GMT
I make blind nuts and solder these into holes in the sole plate. I then screw in brass studs for holding down the tank on the frames. This way there is no problem with sealing threads and I can remove the tank if necessary. I'm not in favour of Loctite or other mastics when I'm building, but I have resorted to their use for repairs. Recently one of my tenders sprung a leak at the sole plate to tank side joint, There was evidence something had been dropped on the sole plate where it protrudes from the tank side. I dried the tank out and used a sharp point to scrape the paint from the corner of the joint and then squeezed some superglue into the joint. Touched up the paint and no sign of the leak now.
Eddie
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Post by Roger on Jul 23, 2014 14:39:18 GMT
I'm not sure how these are usually held on, but couldn't you make brass nuts with thin flanges or tap a strip of brass and solder that on the underside of the piece you want to attach? Maybe you can't get to the underside? If you can, I don't see the need to drill a hole in the tank and then have to seal it up. It seems counter intuitive to me.
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61962
Seasoned Member
Posts: 129
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Post by 61962 on Jul 23, 2014 23:08:25 GMT
Rodger, The fixing nut can't be under the sole plate since the joint is face to face with an angle on the top of the frames. Look at this and the next page to see my method. www.tsmee.co.uk/page11.phpEddie |
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Post by Roger on Jul 24, 2014 7:16:41 GMT
Ok, I see how that's done. That seems a very simple and convenient way of doing it.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 24, 2014 22:40:17 GMT
An extract from my National Coal Board Livery thread}-----Just a small bit of work to-day}--- When built,the water tank securing bolts had been put in first and tightened, then the tank tops fitted..........which means each time I want to remove the Tank/Cab assy.I have to take the tank tops off to access the bolt heads......As the bolt holes are now clearance size I'll have to soft-solder them into position.............Careful use of sandpaper and a flat-bladed screwdriver saw the inside faces cleaned and a paste flux applied........ An old-fashioned home-made heavy duty copper-bit iron was used to tin the inside faces----- ---------- The head undersides on 4 off---2BA bolts were tinned, then placed vertically down into the holes.........The flame from a small gas torch was played over each assy. from below until both solders melted and the bolt secured......The joints were then cleaned with water and dried......... Read more: modeleng.proboards.com/thread/9440/national-coal-board-livery?page=2&scrollTo=102378#ixzz38QcLzZXw |
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davidm
Seasoned Member
Posts: 109
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Post by davidm on Jul 25, 2014 14:48:00 GMT
I used Flowliner in the side tanks of my Simplex. I used 8 ba screws to hold the tanks together and did attempt to soft solder the joints but after several attempts gave up. Flowliner is sold for sealing petrol tanks so should be OK for water, certainly it has been 100% water tight for 6 years. Have a look at www.flowliner.co.uk/(No connection with the company) David |
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