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Post by runner42 on Oct 26, 2014 23:14:16 GMT
Hi Julian,
it may be that I may not have presented the case as scientifically as he would have done, just mentioned the attentioning grabbing headline. Anyway I agree that rivets present special problems in that they require to be silver soldered both sides. I have managed the outside of the 22 rivets OK, but wondering how I am going to do the insides. I suppose I will have to cut small pieces of silver solder and place them on the rivet heads and heat the outside of the barrel. Notwithstanding, that it can be achieved it normally cannot be done at the same time and requires multiple heating and pickling of the barrel.
Brian
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,901
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Post by jma1009 on Oct 26, 2014 23:28:50 GMT
hi brian, for the tapered barrel (which i'd forgotten about in your case) it isnt quite so bad as you silver solder up the barrel separately. use a drill to make the countersinks so greater angle than the rivets if countersunk, plus use same just a tad for snaphead rivet heads. as Ed advises dont close everything up. make a few nicks in each rivet hole before assembly with a sharp needle triangular file. get plenty of long lengths of silver solder rod not too small dia. ive still got some easyflo strip. get the whole lot up to heat and run the solder along the joints doing the inside first, then bump another silver solder rod over all the rivet heads as a long stroke. it will take less time once up to heat than it did to type this! if you can get easyflo i would use it as it will flow much better and easier for the tyro. you must use the correct flux for boiler work - as stated before i use thessco F flux. cheers, julian
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Post by Deleted on Oct 26, 2014 23:31:46 GMT
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