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Post by Roger on Dec 24, 2018 8:06:02 GMT
Are you sure you need that stretcher? If the smokebox saddle is substantial and bolted in place, it makes it pretty strong since it's already close to the support given by the buffers.
Bear in mind that you need to arrange for what supports the cross shaft that operates the drain cocks. That's bolted to the bottom of the frames there.
Another thought is that 1501 has a substantial casting below the saddle to gather the steam from the four exhaust ports. If you copied that, it would stiffen it up a great deal and be more prototypical.
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Post by 92220 on Dec 24, 2018 9:10:32 GMT
I definitely think they are far eastern. You're right of course, that's the model engineer's way to rectify the problem. To be frank, I'm not sure I can be bothered with something that's obviously of rubbish quality. I'm considering binning them and trying to find a different supplier. Hi Rob.
If you do decide to look for a new supplier, check out this company. I've used them in the past and I've been pleased with their taps and dies:- www.tapdie.com/html/model_engineer.html I had forgotten them when I mentioned the other companies. Also, they have a special offer on at the moment: a set of 1/8" to 1/2" x 40 tpi reduced from £80 to £40.
Bob.
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Post by ettingtonliam on Dec 24, 2018 20:00:07 GMT
That's looking really nice----It's worth considering Roger's eccentric bushes as they really do work..... Here's an everyday example of them in use}--------------------- It's those angled cross bracing........According to the T/V programme about its' construction the builders were faced with a severe temp difference between night and day to the point where the expantion was too much and the connecting pins wouldn't go in........... After a lot of "Thinking" some bright spark in the office came up with the eccentric bush idea which worked ( of course ) and there followed much back-slapping and champagne drinking !!..........I'm sat in front of the T/V saying}--- "Obviously they weren't on this Forum then" !! When Brooklyn Bridge was built in the US in the 19th century, and when Forth Railway Bridge was built in the UK, the engineers of the time overcame the same problem by building bonfires around the links or by packing them with ice until things lined up well enough for the final pins to be driven home. Speaking of driving pins home on steel bridges, many years ago, the landlord of my local pub who was an ex Roayl Engineer, held up his hand one night, domonstreating the fact that it was missing one finger, and said 'Let that be a lesson to you. If you are building a Bailey Bridge at night, never use your finger to check if the pin holes between the panels are lined up! Happy Christmas
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Post by simplyloco on Dec 24, 2018 20:27:20 GMT
Speaking of driving pins home on steel bridges, many years ago, the landlord of my local pub who was an ex Roayl Engineer, held up his hand one night, domonstreating the fact that it was missing one finger, and said 'Let that be a lesson to you. If you are building a Bailey Bridge at night, never use your finger to check if the pin holes between the panels are lined up! Happy Christmas As an eX RE myself, I know at least one person who forgot about the spring loaded 2" pins that fire when the floating battle tank transporter pontoons connect together. It does not do to clear out the pin holes with ones finger!
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Post by Rob on Dec 25, 2018 12:19:48 GMT
Are you sure you need that stretcher? If the smokebox saddle is substantial and bolted in place, it makes it pretty strong since it's already close to the support given by the buffers. Bear in mind that you need to arrange for what supports the cross shaft that operates the drain cocks. That's bolted to the bottom of the frames there. Another thought is that 1501 has a substantial casting below the saddle to gather the steam from the four exhaust ports. If you copied that, it would stiffen it up a great deal and be more prototypical. I'm not positive it is needed, no - that's probably the strongest portion of the frames. However, I did base the design on the casting you mention, shown in this photo: 20140204_112658 by Roger Froud, on Flickr I don't think I can replicate the casting as I have the two exhaust ports rather than four. The design of my cylinder castings means that there is a large void in the casting where the exhaust ports would be, so I can't put them in even if I wanted. I like the rounded edges around the cutouts shown in that photo, but I'm not sure how best to replicate those on the stretcher itself. I definitely think they are far eastern. You're right of course, that's the model engineer's way to rectify the problem. To be frank, I'm not sure I can be bothered with something that's obviously of rubbish quality. I'm considering binning them and trying to find a different supplier. Hi Rob.
If you do decide to look for a new supplier, check out this company. I've used them in the past and I've been pleased with their taps and dies:- www.tapdie.com/html/model_engineer.html I had forgotten them when I mentioned the other companies. Also, they have a special offer on at the moment: a set of 1/8" to 1/2" x 40 tpi reduced from £80 to £40.
Bob.
Thanks Bob, I hadn't come across that website before! I think if you hadn't recommended them I would have been put off by the ancient design of the website. Merry Christmas all.
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dscott
Elder Statesman
Posts: 2,437
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Post by dscott on Dec 25, 2018 16:53:53 GMT
Having had many years of outside cylinder experience, Swindon must have drawn in this part first to stop the frames from twisting. As I am doing a smaller version of Paddington I will be making this for mine! David and Lily.
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Post by steamer5 on Dec 26, 2018 5:37:47 GMT
Hi Rob, +1 on Tap & Die. Have stuff nobody else has ...... unless you want to pay an arm & a leg..... at reasonable prices & great quality, well at least the ones I brought were.
Merry Xmas & have a great New Year
Cheers Kerrin
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Post by masterdrain on Dec 26, 2018 13:49:35 GMT
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