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Post by Roger on Jun 30, 2020 18:22:21 GMT
Hello all, Regarding my Water Bowser project}-------- Sometime soon I'll need to de-rust and internally seal the actual steel container itself......It's been a while since I've done this sort of thing and even then it was sealing a motorcycle tank against Ethanol rather than water.... So, can you good folk suggest a suitable commercially available product ??........... bearing in mind that this water bowser will be supplying the injectors on my locos so must be free from any floating particles etc... I seem to remember "phosphating" was involved .. Many thanks in anticipation, Alan PS}---- just a thought--- maybe the anti-Ethanol product would seal against water as well ?? Hi Alan, I suppose you could use Fertan, just rinse it round and drain it out.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 30, 2020 18:43:07 GMT
Hi Alan...the other product suitable is 'Petseal'...it's basically resin A that you add hardener and slush around inside until it cures. You'll need to workout the volumne of your tank. The instructions will tell you how much product you need to give a good enough coating of said volumne.
Pete
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Post by jon38r80 on Jun 30, 2020 22:54:15 GMT
To reseal and coat the inside of an old metal potable water tank bituminous paint seals the joints, stabilises the surfaces and sticks down any loose bits. You could thin some a bit and slosh it about inside.
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Post by delaplume on Jul 1, 2020 8:08:42 GMT
Hello all,
and thanks to you 3 for those useful ideas.......I remembered the name "Ferntan" from my time working on classic cars so looked that up first..Yes, that's the one I must have had in mind as it reacts with, and neutralises the rust itself...
A quick bit of googling found my local auto paint firm as stockists ( based in our nearest Trade Estate, about 15 mins travel )...PLUS my very local auto/DIY shop ( 5 mins ) as stockists.......I'll be trying them out this morning.....more later !!
I could also use either one of the other ideas to go onto a surface already prepared with Ferntan I suppose, so I'm spoiled for choice...
Thanks again
Alan
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Post by simplyloco on Jul 1, 2020 15:06:13 GMT
Well, I've got to have something to do when I finish the Stirling. I practiced on the baby Stuart engine, now it's the big time! John
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Post by delaplume on Jul 1, 2020 18:06:46 GMT
Not much assembly progress to-day I'm afraid, just more parts towards the final "kit"........ The paint is Halford's own self etching grey primer which I've been using for a few years now and am quite happy with the results....To date I've used it on Bright Steel, Black steel, copper, Brass and Aloo-min-um...
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Post by delaplume on Jul 2, 2020 21:40:21 GMT
Thursdays outpourings........... The peg represents me hanging out the washing only for it to be rained on !! ( I was busy on the lathe at the time !! )........ 8 new, softer springs............. The bush with the 1/2" BSP thread in, ready to be brazed into the container..This was made from a bar-end steel piece of 1.5 " diameter which required to parted off..Alas I didn't have anything suitable so it was back to basic Hack-sawing again !!........PS}-- it actually goes the other way around. Repairs to the mini-lathe indexing tool-holder..
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Post by steamer5 on Jul 3, 2020 4:42:37 GMT
Cut some slightly over length bit ( 175 mm ) off a perfectly good length of 75 x 16 bar, and am proceeding to turn most of each bit into swarf. That’s seems to be working great! The hope is that there might be a stretcher in each bit! The first one seems to be slowly emerging so there is hope!
Cheers Kerrin
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Post by delaplume on Jul 3, 2020 18:55:28 GMT
Threading the 1/2" BSP on the mini lathe..........Normally I would have used the 6" Craftsman Lathe but it's currently set-up to machine Simplex wheel assy.'s Yes--yes, I know the large adjustable is a bit OTT but I don't have an adjustable Tap wrench big enough to fit the tap's square end...... It was heavy going but by being patient and lots of Treffolux the job was soon accomplished.... A rebate was later machined into the large end and an O ring fitted.......... Next up will be a job-lot of brazing ( this bush and the 4 small pads on the two ends of the container ) and then we can start to do a full assembly dry run........
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Post by delaplume on Jul 4, 2020 9:33:12 GMT
Hello all, I've posted this early due to pressing "Domestic Duties" which will take up the rest of the week-end....( That's code talk for F1 GP coverage ).. The job went much easier than I anticipated........I thought that resting the container vertically on one of its' convex ends whilst trying to maintain an even rod feed at the other end would be full of woe, but it wasn't !!..........The whole job including rotating the container through 180 degrees for better access took no more than 1 hour.... So right now it's cooling down to a point where I can try the water valve in position......( Photo to follow ) then I'll continue on Monday, 6th JULY...
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Post by delaplume on Jul 4, 2020 9:47:56 GMT
UPDATE}---------- It fits and lines-up correctly for the operating handle to have clearance....( Phew !!--- that's a relief ).. OK, I'm off duty until Monday evening when I'll be looking at fitting the 4 pressure pads into the 2 concave end plates...
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Post by Jim on Jul 4, 2020 12:38:00 GMT
Had a nice small job in rolling up the cylinder cleadings for friend who is building a locally designed 5" gauge loco.
Jim
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Post by Jim on Jul 5, 2020 11:44:16 GMT
Today was one of those lovely sunny but cool winter's days that can't be wasted so we decided to go for a drive in the country.
First stop was the small railway museum set up in the former Yass Town Railway Station that marked the end of the branch line into town from the main southern line linking Sydney and Melbourne. The branch was actually designated as a tramway with the line running up the middle of a side street into the town station. Among the museum's collection was a 4-4-2 tank engine number 1307 built in 1877 by Beyer Peacock as a 4-4-0 tender loco before conversion to a tank engine that finished its time on the Yass Tramway in 1964. I couldn't resist this photo of the cylinder cleading to pass on to the friend I rolled the cylinder cleading for, he's aiming for a much tighter fit round the cylinder.
Jim
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Post by RGR 60130 on Jul 5, 2020 17:29:31 GMT
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Post by dhamblin on Jul 5, 2020 18:49:12 GMT
I've posted this early due to pressing "Domestic Duties" which will take up the rest of the week-end....( That's code talk for F1 GP coverage )... Rather enjoyed the race Managed to get one wheel flange re-profiled before the start and then the tread cone angle after it! Regards, Dan
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Post by andyhigham on Jul 5, 2020 19:45:18 GMT
It's a great little circuit
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Post by delaplume on Jul 6, 2020 1:38:42 GMT
Hello Reg, May I suggest that you have the castor-wheels at one end only, with fixed ones at the other end ??.........As shown both ends will try to go their own way at the same time with resulting chaos.........I have a similar 6ft long transporter and that's how I overcame the "wandering" problem........... If you push at the castor fitted end you can steer it in much the same way a rudder steers a ship ie}--- you put the tiller over in the opposite direction to that which you want to go......... Also, by turning the castor end in a full circle ( say about 1 ft radius ) you can get the "fixed" end to move over slightly each time.... My workshop and store area is very limited in space and yet I'm able to manoever the transporter with ease.... I hoe this is of some use ?? Alan
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stevep
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,070
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Post by stevep on Jul 6, 2020 9:10:30 GMT
I agree with Alan, and suggest castors at one end only. I also find that small wheels have an annoying habit of stopping very suddenly if they encounter even the smallest of stones. So I have fitted large diameter wheels (wheel-barrow wheels) to my trolleys, which mean I can even run it over gravel without it trying to throw the loco out of the end.
Nice looking trolley though.
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Post by RGR 60130 on Jul 6, 2020 9:45:37 GMT
I agree with Alan, and suggest castors at one end only. I also find that small wheels have an annoying habit of stopping very suddenly if they encounter even the smallest of stones. So I have fitted large diameter wheels (wheel-barrow wheels) to my trolleys, which mean I can even run it over gravel without it trying to throw the loco out of the end. Nice looking trolley though. This is the third trolley I've built to this basic design and so far they seem to have handled OK when crossing the car parks at both the Harrogate and Doncaster shows. I like this sort of arrangement because you can see your loco, it's easy to rock it back and forth a bit to make sure it's not seizing up, it's easy to lift with a man at both sides and then the top set of rails can be used for getting underneath for maintenance or displaying another loco on. It won't keep the dust off but there's always dust sheets for that. Reg
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uuu
Elder Statesman
your message here...
Posts: 2,800
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Post by uuu on Jul 6, 2020 13:56:45 GMT
I thought I'd try cycling. First time on a bike for more than 20 years. Reminded me that roads can seem to be uphill both out and back. Not dead, so that's an encouragement to try again.
I suppose I could get one of those electric jobs, which might save having to walk up the real hills.
Wilf
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