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Post by delaplume on Aug 12, 2020 23:37:17 GMT
Ah-ha !!....I see the crowd is surging forwards for this to happen ( LoL ) so I'll start a new thread entitled}--- 1366, upgrades and mods.
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dscott
Elder Statesman
Posts: 2,438
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Post by dscott on Aug 13, 2020 2:18:44 GMT
Wonderful idea says he returning from the Garage and a very successful night of THE SADDLE MOVING on the rusted seized Super 7. Then the cross slide came off in my hands... Lovely what hours of penetrating oil will do for the beyond repair!!! Cost to date. 21 miles of petrol. 60 pence for the toll bridge and half a can of WD. Oh and several Double ended MIDNIGHT CANDLES. Can you sleep in this heat?
Got to join the Wednesday Gang for the first time in many months. One big happy Family for virus purposes! Wow it was HOT.
David and Lily.
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Post by steamer5 on Aug 13, 2020 5:56:15 GMT
Well NZ’s run of 102 days community free of Covid came to an end on Tuesday! BUGGER! The city were the out brake happened has gone to our level alert 3, stay home if you can, restricted travel etc, the rest of us level 2 keep your distance. So in preparation for us moving up to staying at home, it was off to the metal supply store today to get in a supply for more stretchers so I would have something to do.....YES!
Cheers Kerrin
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Post by keith1500 on Aug 13, 2020 21:37:27 GMT
OS steam Rocket OS steam Rocket by GL5Keith1500, on Flickr I have owned and operated this model of Rocket for some 13 odd years. Like my model of 1500 it has sat under the bench for a few years with no attention. So first things first a check over and hydraulic test to working pressure revealed a few minor problems. The smaller pipes were blocked and the gauge glass was slow to fill. Sorted out these problems and descaled the boiler. A retest showed a leak from the hand pump clack. The clack is unusual in that it has a M3 screw in the end which engages which a light spring and may be limits the lift of the ball? Anyway I removed the clack with a view to re-sealing the screw however the M3 screw just crumbled! OS steam Rocket by GL5Keith1500, on Flickr OS steam Rocket by GL5Keith1500, on Flickr I guess I’ll replace the M3 screw with a stainless steel one. Certainly not brass. Item P in the drawing below. OS steam Rocket by GL5Keith1500, on Flickr I must admit the clack is quite a nice design and works very well, as does the model.. A bit odd that a brass screw was used. I’ll be checking the crosshead pump clack next.
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Post by RGR 60130 on Aug 14, 2020 7:06:53 GMT
Keith1500,
Does that screw actually contact the 4mm ball and control the lift? If so it might be made of brass to prevent damage to the ball.
Reg
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Post by Cro on Aug 14, 2020 7:10:40 GMT
Keith1500, Does that screw actually contact the 4mm ball and control the lift? If so it might be made of brass to prevent damage to the ball. Reg Could make a little PTFE end to the screw, could be a bit tight for space though by looks of things.
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uuu
Elder Statesman
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Post by uuu on Aug 14, 2020 7:45:42 GMT
Anyone for bronze? Or substitute a ceramic ball?
Wilf
PS I like the model!
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Post by keith1500 on Aug 15, 2020 14:48:25 GMT
I was going to just pop a stainless screw in there but Reg got me thinking about the effects on the ball. So it was a fairly easy job to make replacement bronze screw. I removed the other clack to A, to check/ replace the screw and B, to measure the screw setting, something I forgot to do with the damaged one! So, yes the screw does control the lift of the ball. OS steam Rocket by GL5Keith1500, on Flickr
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Post by keith1500 on Aug 15, 2020 14:57:11 GMT
Now a question on eccentric straps.
Those on Rocket seem to have excessive play. The sheave measure 26.8mm and the straps are 27.15mm. Certainly feels worst than it looks on paper!
I am tempted to ease them down a bit or is it more trouble than it’s worth?
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JonL
Elder Statesman
WWSME (Wiltshire)
Posts: 2,909
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Post by JonL on Aug 15, 2020 20:58:06 GMT
Would it take up a bit once it has an oil film in there? I understand you need a little room for lubrication...
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Post by keith1500 on Aug 16, 2020 7:26:01 GMT
Oil will creep in the smallest gap but I don’t think it needs as much as 0.3mm. Lost movement must affect valve performance and thus the loco. But I have to say the loco performs ok. The dilemma is whether to do it or not. It’s a small part to clamp/ hold, clock up, machine etc and I am not sure this would work anyway. The part should be remade, or rebored and a new eccentric made.
So just wondering if anyone has experienced this?
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Post by steamer5 on Aug 16, 2020 9:05:04 GMT
Hi Keith, You could maybe try white metal to build up the eccentrics, nice looking model btw.
Cheers Kerrin
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uuu
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Post by uuu on Aug 16, 2020 9:50:52 GMT
Filing a bit off the mating faces will close them up in the fore/aft direction.
Wilf
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Post by ettingtonliam on Aug 16, 2020 11:50:59 GMT
I agree with Wilf, it doesn't take much off the faces with a fine flat file.
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Post by coniston on Aug 16, 2020 19:07:12 GMT
Also agree with Wilf, I have done it on a 5 inch loco before and made an improvement for what was only a little work, although I milled it off rather than file it.
Chris D
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Post by coniston on Aug 16, 2020 19:16:31 GMT
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Post by ettingtonliam on Aug 16, 2020 21:42:42 GMT
I was going to start fixing Locomotion's wheels to the axles, but suddenly remembered that the mechanical lubricator (non-prototypical, I know) was driven off a small eccentric on the front axle, and I hadn't made it! Thats now rectified, and residing in its correct place. I can't fit the wheels tomorrow, because the automatic Golf has to go for its gearbox oil change. £200! For an oil change! Apparently the gearbox oil is something really exotic, costing about £100 a gallon.
Anyway, a few days ago, I cut a 14DP cast iron backgear for a fellow Drummond owner, and he's sent me a plastic 20T changegear, also 14DP, that he'd made by 3D printing. Perfect in every detail, including the holes for the drive pins, and the size '20T' marked on it. All I had to do was run my 5/8" reamer through it to remove a few fragments from the bore, and it fitted straight onto the machine. Its on the end of the mandrel now, driving a 200-1 fine feed train, to test it out. Will it last the 100 years that the Drummond originals have lasted? Sadly, ! shall never find out, unless I live to be 170 or so.
It takes me several hours to make a 20T changegear from a raw cast iron blank. It took him 45 minutes to print one---.
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uuu
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Post by uuu on Aug 17, 2020 6:47:43 GMT
Seeing that motorcycle lift got me thinking that an ambulance stretcher, or coffin trolley might be a suitable basis for a loco mover. Here's one on ebay: Ebay itemIt seems to have a hydraulic lift mechanism. You can also get clamps/rails to hold them securely in a moving vehicle (think how easy the ambulance crew have to get the loaded trolley in and out). Just an idea - I've not progressed it at all. Wilf
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Post by steamer5 on Aug 17, 2020 7:35:41 GMT
Hi Wilf, Another idea for you......an X hospital bed. I’ve had one for years at my dads, one of these days I’ll have to bring it home ........
Cheers Kerrin
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chrisb
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 345
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Post by chrisb on Aug 17, 2020 8:43:08 GMT
A couple of friends back in the uk use hospital beds as lift trolleys, one a model engineer, the other a motor cycle racer
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