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Post by dhamblin on May 1, 2021 17:42:18 GMT
My new compressor developed a fault last weekend - the unloader valve was continuously leaking, which meant it couldn't charge to full pressure. Not a problem, not unsafe, continue shot blasting at a slower rate. Support team very helpful and despatched a new pressure switch. Fitted that today and started charging, no leaks. Pressure switch wouldn't cut out either! Tried adjusting it to a significantly lower cut in / out range and that didn't fix it, so back to them on Tuesday to try again On the plus side Alan's comment about a wire wheel to remove paint has got me thinking and instead I will experiment with that on larger assemblies (tender and loco chassis). Regards, Dan
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Post by delaplume on May 1, 2021 19:49:37 GMT
Hi Dan, Yes, the wheel used is Brass and quite thin in section..........I can't remember just where I bought them, probably at a Classic Motorbike show or a similar ME gathering..... might even be on E-Bay ??...........I used my handy Black & Decker 1/2 inch drill, a face mask and several cups of Yorkshire Tea !!
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dscott
Elder Statesman
Posts: 2,438
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Post by dscott on May 1, 2021 23:31:42 GMT
Anyone wondering what we are talking about, here she is. I may put her in the joke section under PLACES TO PUT BATTERIES ON LOCOMOTIVES!!! David and Lily.
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dscott
Elder Statesman
Posts: 2,438
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Post by dscott on May 1, 2021 23:59:40 GMT
Today was more construction and filling the space with part builds. These then build up into sets of shelves for chucks and other useful lathe parts. Originally I had an idea for a roller type door covering them as they are both going to a very messy place behind 2 lathes. Square downpipe guttering cut in half sprung to mind going over a pair of wheels at the top. Showing the 2 saws and the sliding unit that I built for cutting all sorts of stuff including brass sheet. Yes Aluminum hates sliding on itself and any type of OIL would attract dust like mad. So I stuck 2 bits of Plastic Angles onto the saws base. Several saws come with these guide now so they were always needed. Me in action using a stifish brush to spread the glue. As always it is a fight against the setting times and your ability to spread quickly enough. Photo Lily. David and Lily.
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darrene
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 440
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Post by darrene on May 2, 2021 7:50:27 GMT
It's still looking a bit empty but construction work on the shed/workshop is complete bar the electrics, so I've started moving things in. A new-to-me Tri-Leva with an Amolco milling attachment joins my trusty old Fobco Star. The first task is going to be a large and robust workbench, better bracing for the lathe stand and then to start learning to machine things Darren
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JonL
Elder Statesman
WWSME (Wiltshire)
Posts: 2,912
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Post by JonL on May 2, 2021 9:06:15 GMT
The more solid, robust and level your bench is the easier your life will be, so it sounds like you have the right idea. Enjoy!
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Post by chris vine on May 2, 2021 10:24:51 GMT
I found that you can make work benches much stronger by making them into part of the structure of the shed. If you use some, say, 2 x 2 wood along the walls and then attached kitchen worktop as the bench top, the whole thing gets very rigid. The front gets supported from the floor by struts, cupboards etc.
Worktops are always available from kitchen companies for a few pounds. Either damaged tops, or ones they have in stock which have gone out of fashion. The thicker the better of course...
Chris.
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darrene
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 440
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Post by darrene on May 2, 2021 12:14:48 GMT
Thanks Chris, yes that's the plan. I have sone structural timber which is nice thick and dense timber.
Next week should see a bench made from it across one side wall, nicely braced and affixed to three walls and floor. If I can afford the space taken up by the lathe, I will likely look at moving it to the bench
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stevep
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,070
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Post by stevep on May 2, 2021 14:45:59 GMT
I found that you can make work benches much stronger by making them into part of the structure of the shed. If you use some, say, 2 x 2 wood along the walls and then attached kitchen worktop as the bench top, the whole thing gets very rigid. The front gets supported from the floor by struts, cupboards etc. Worktops are always available from kitchen companies for a few pounds. Either damaged tops, or ones they have in stock which have gone out of fashion. The thicker the better of course... Chris. I used to make benches open-fronted, and found that when I dropped anything, it inevitably ran under the stuff I had stored under the bench. So for my last two workshops, I have built them like this, The solid uprights, like you suggest Chris, but with a 'kicking board' along the bottom, under the bottom shelf, and doors to stop anything falling into the cupboard. Note the re-cycling of thin tongue-and-groove stripwood for the doors.
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jem
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,067
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Post by jem on May 2, 2021 17:07:58 GMT
I built the legs of my workbench out of concrete blocks, fine if you have a concrete floor, then planks for the workbench top, makes it very strong and solid, also very easy to build.
Jem
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Post by GWR 101 on May 2, 2021 17:37:11 GMT
Started on the bearing blocks 12 required struggled with the bronze cast bar, then decided to change cutters to a new 1 1/4" dia. end mill. Like a knife through butter, this stuff definitely needs sharp tools. Had to use the spell checker as do not want to be accused of being "H" L of D Regards Paul.
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Post by delaplume on May 2, 2021 20:10:42 GMT
Tapping the backhead bushes on the Pansy/Dean project}----
Note the use of a "Top Hat" alignment guide.........typically I didn't have the required size in my collection so had to turn one up first.... The small holes that you see in the bushes are threaded to take bolts originally........ the thread does not go into the backhead plate .....I'll plug those later..
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smallbrother
Elder Statesman
Errors aplenty, progress slow, but progress nonetheless!
Posts: 2,269
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Post by smallbrother on May 2, 2021 20:37:06 GMT
Could you explain the "Top Hat" please?
Pete.
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dscott
Elder Statesman
Posts: 2,438
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Post by dscott on May 3, 2021 0:15:25 GMT
Pete. I Taught our Students basic Lathework for many, many years and making small TOP HATS was a favorite to do with them. Bushes for boilers and rods are all top hats. Top Hats in tapping are with wider bases that sit upon the bush and the tight clearance hole in the middle holds the tap square and level while you open out the hole to a new thread.
Today was more of the same but a wish to get stuff organised and find the detail sander velcro holder. Yes once even more shelves are dry and in place... All the bits that would have speeded up this job will appear.
David and Lily.
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smallbrother
Elder Statesman
Errors aplenty, progress slow, but progress nonetheless!
Posts: 2,269
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Post by smallbrother on May 3, 2021 8:37:44 GMT
Pete. I Taught our Students basic Lathework for many, many years and making small TOP HATS was a favorite to do with them. Bushes for boilers and rods are all top hats. Top Hats in tapping are with wider bases that sit upon the bush and the tight clearance hole in the middle holds the tap square and level while you open out the hole to a new thread. Today was more of the same but a wish to get stuff organised and find the detail sander velcro holder. Yes once even more shelves are dry and in place... All the bits that would have speeded up this job will appear. David and Lily. Thanks David, So a tight fitting tube with a wider base that doesn't actually fix to anything- is that the idea? Pete.
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Post by ettingtonliam on May 3, 2021 11:35:34 GMT
Not tight fitting, but a close running fit on the shank of the tap. Yes, the wide base of the guide presses against the part to be tapped, and the bore of the guide keeps the tap square. The guide needs to be long enough to engage the shank, and special ones may have to be made for taps which have a shank smaller in diameter than the thread they cut.
The guide doesn't need to be top hat shaped, I've got several square mild steel blocks with various size holes drilled in them to suit different taps.
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Post by andyhigham on May 3, 2021 18:19:11 GMT
This morning I put the engine back in my race bike, then took Dio for a walk. Later in the afternoon I drove to Shrewsbury and back to collect a Smart and Brown 2 ton toggle press that I won on Ebay for £40
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Post by delaplume on May 4, 2021 8:51:38 GMT
Could you explain the "Top Hat" please? Pete. Hi Pete, Yes, as per the above contributions......there's no fixed rule, just make them to suit your problem/application at the time.......When at w.o.r.k. I used to carry a few in my cow-gown pocket, mainly for the heli-coil threading that was needed in the Aluminium casings of Engines and Gearboxes......as long as you keep to the general idea that the base is larger than the shaft you should be ok..........( the step shape helps your little pinkies when holding the smaller sizes !!).. Be creative in your thinking....for example clevis pins are an ideal source}--- already shaped and generally made from a "soft" steel.....I find that a normal twist drill size gives just enough clearance........ You might notice that the tapping grip I've shown has the long handles reduced in length ??.......... I find this more comfortable to use than the smaller versions and easier for enclosed areas.... Some sizes can be overlapped as it were......For example}----5BA and 3mm and 1/8" Have yourself a couple of hours productive turning with no great effort involved....with some useful bits of kit at the end of it... Alan PS}---- while you're at it find 2 large hexagon nuts and Braze / solder or weld them together.....The included angle will give you 120 degrees which is a tad over the 119 degrees standard for twist drill angle.......makes a useful gauge when free-hand grinding drills...
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Post by GWR 101 on May 4, 2021 12:38:34 GMT
After some days of milling and some hand filing PB I couldn't resist in undertaking a "mock-up". Did give me the opportunity to check the distance across the outside of the axle boxes, came out as 3.235". Checking the club standards for compliance the back to back measurement for the wheels is 3.285 +0 -0.016, so this gives me between 0.050" & 0.034" of end float. I assume this is acceptable for pony and bogie trucks, if not this can be easily corrected by altering the spacers. Regards Paul
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JonL
Elder Statesman
WWSME (Wiltshire)
Posts: 2,912
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Post by JonL on May 4, 2021 14:10:06 GMT
I worked out why my hand pump has always been such hard work.... after I swapped my clacks left to right suddenly it became easier, and the axle pump blew out its glands.... turns out I'd for some reason incorporated a copper washer into the top of the clack, allowing enough clearance for the ball to semi seal itself on the opposite seat... I'm such an idiot...
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