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Post by Roger on Jan 8, 2022 23:08:12 GMT
Hi Keith, Nice work on the treadle! Have you given any thought to prevent the cover being “removed” by the idiots? One of the tracks I visit has a proximity switch to activate a barrier arm & signals, works fine for 7 1/4” locos with deeper flanges not so well for 5”, putting a metal object between loco & trolley has to be done with care! Next time I visit I’ll have a chat with there track boys & suggest a sprung plate above the switch might cure the problem Cheers Kerrin Thanks Kerrin, So far so good. It’s the dirt and muck that worries me. Hence the cover access is easy. The cover should need a 10mm spanner to release it but it might come off if kicked just right. The intention is to have a hard wood ramp either side, typical railway protection. The treadle, by luck, happens to satisfy both GL5 wheel profile and will operate with some 500grams passing over it as well as a heavy 71/4 inch narrow gauge loco. To explain how that works I have done a sketch. The initial design was for the treadle to move down and operate the microswitch ( top sketch) However I discovered that the treadle would also pivot and thereby push the microswitch ( bottom sketch) this feature is ideal for detecting 5inch gauge wheels. The idea is the treadle sits 2mm below the rail so anything less than 500g will roll over without derailing. The inclusion of a check rail would ensure the wheel doesn’t ride up. Part of getting this to work so well is in using a good quality IP54 microswitch which is really sensitive. Signalling track treadle by GL5Keith1500, on Flickr I am going to look at detection using infrared LED. I figure one each side of the rail pointing upwards at angle of say 30 degrees inclined inwards to bounce off a shiny wheel as it passes through. The principle is bounce the light of the tyre wheel which is normally bright ( or becomes clean once running). Watch this space. Hi Keith, I would have thought a Hall Effect switch would be more appropriate for this sort of application? You can get these in a variety of packages. Alternatively, you can buy proximity switches that are in threaded bodies. These are ruggedised for industrial use, and they tend to be expensive. I don't think an optical solution is as good as either of these.
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cfmrc
Seasoned Member
Posts: 107
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Post by cfmrc on Jan 9, 2022 17:12:29 GMT
I am working out the handrails on my 3.5” King Arthur. The original builder used 2.16mm (0.085”) diameter steel for the front half. This looks about the right size, but I haven’t been able to source a supply - any ideas anyone?
Tim
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mbrown
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,719
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Post by mbrown on Jan 9, 2022 18:12:38 GMT
14 swg is 0.080" - I use it for making 8 BA studs and source it in the form of stainless cycle spokes. Whether you can buy them long enough for your handrails - or if the 5 thou difference will be critical in your case, I am afraid I don't know.
Good luck
Malcolm
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cfmrc
Seasoned Member
Posts: 107
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Post by cfmrc on Jan 9, 2022 20:13:43 GMT
Thanks Malcolm. I figured it would be a commercial size for something. Won’t be too difficult to join it with a tapped hole in one half and a thread on the other, if required.
Tim
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Post by andyhigham on Jan 12, 2022 18:51:42 GMT
Today I have driven from Glasgow to Lairg and back. 478 Miles, 10 Hours in the seat. Manchester is closer to Glasgow than Lairg is!!! The Lucky 7 is now in the back of my van. I think it may have steam operated drain cocks, how posh is that?
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cfmrc
Seasoned Member
Posts: 107
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Post by cfmrc on Jan 13, 2022 11:47:14 GMT
Returning to odd-sized handrail steel, I think the source of steel wire that Ian Jaycroft used was coat hanger wire. 13.5 gauge coat hangers are an exact match. If all else fails then I should be able to make a decent car aerial.
I am also looking into a spring steel wire source.
Tim
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Post by Roger on Jan 13, 2022 14:16:51 GMT
Returning to odd-sized handrail steel, I think the source of steel wire that Ian Jaycroft used was coat hanger wire. 13.5 gauge coat hangers are an exact match. If all else fails then I should be able to make a decent car aerial. I am also looking into a spring steel wire source. Tim eBay has plenty of Spring Steel wire vendors. I use one called Hughs Harpsichords. He probably thinks I'm a musician.
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Post by steamer5 on Jan 13, 2022 14:22:40 GMT
Tim, Another source is a welding supply outfit. Our local one is happy to sell a length at a time of TIG rod....pretty sure you can get it around 2 mm dia
Cheers Kerrin
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timb
Statesman
Posts: 512
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Post by timb on Jan 13, 2022 15:57:39 GMT
Spring steel wire - look for piano wire - all sizes available on the well known auction site (usual disclaimer!)
Tim
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cfmrc
Seasoned Member
Posts: 107
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Post by cfmrc on Jan 13, 2022 23:48:53 GMT
Thanks for all the suggestions. I have sourced some 13 swg wire from Nogginend Metals. This is 2.3mm diameter, which might be a touch large, but we’ll see how it looks. It will at least be bomb proof and straight. There are many different wire gauges out there and ‘proper’ piano wire doesn’t seem to go up to 13 swg.
Tim
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stevep
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,070
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Post by stevep on Jan 14, 2022 18:52:04 GMT
When I bought the brake blocks for my Pansys (a long time ago) they came in the form of 3-in-a-row. So the normal method of turning them as a ring wouldn't work so I cut them all apart, and reduced them to the desired thickness. I then drilled and reamed the pivot hole, and for the last couple of days, have been making a jig to hold them for machining. I started by adding a sub-base on to the jig I have used for machining various expansion links and reverser sectors. Here it is, mounted on the mill, ready to start operations, with the first embryo block mounted.
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Post by andyhigham on Jan 14, 2022 19:15:09 GMT
I made a clamp to hold the pins down on the Lucky 7 safety valves. This will allow a hydraulic test without disturbing the valves
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Post by RGR 60130 on Jan 15, 2022 15:34:42 GMT
It was quite a productive week and I now have 6 tyres firmly shrunk onto 6 wheels for the A1. Happy days! DSC00089 by reg.rossiter, on Flickr It is at this point that you find out how good you were at clocking in the front inner face of the rim before boring the axle hole. In full size the tyre is set back 1/8" radially from the edge of the rim. This equates to 0.011". I'll be using a very narrow HSS tool to trim a tiny bit off the inner edge of the tyre. DSC00092 by reg.rossiter, on Flickr Had I clocked in the back inner face of the rim the job would have ended up a mess because as you can see here, the back isn't quite concentric with the tyre even though the front is correct. DSC00093 by reg.rossiter, on Flickr This week I'll start on the final profiling, one step at a time. Reg
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Post by andyhigham on Jan 15, 2022 18:12:28 GMT
I investigated why the handbrake wasn't working on the Lucky 7. The operating screw is 2ba, bronze and bent. It is screwed and loctited into a 1/4" dia shaft with the handwheel on the top. Only problem the loctite hadn't held.
Strangely the steam brake acts on the 4 driving wheels, the hand brake on the 4 trailing wheels via a bowden cable to allow for movement of the bogie
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Post by delaplume on Jan 15, 2022 22:04:44 GMT
It was quite a productive week and I now have 6 tyres firmly shrunk onto 6 wheels for the A1. Happy days! DSC00089 by reg.rossiter, on Flickr It is at this point that you find out how good you were at clocking in the front inner face of the rim before boring the axle hole. In full size the tyre is set back 1/8" radially from the edge of the rim. This equates to 0.011". I'll be using a very narrow HSS tool to trim a tiny bit off the inner edge of the tyre. DSC00092 by reg.rossiter, on Flickr Had I clocked in the back inner face of the rim the job would have ended up a mess because as you can see here, the back isn't quite concentric with the tyre even though the front is correct. DSC00093 by reg.rossiter, on Flickr This week I'll start on the final profiling, one step at a time. Reg Hi Reg---- looking very nice indeed.. May I make a slight suggestion ??........The centre wheelset pins have the return cranks clamped on their ends.... This will drive the outside valve gear...... and is reliant on the interference fit of the pin into the hub.............I'd be inclined to fit a small grubscrew at the rear ( similar to that in a wheel ) to provide a positive drive and prevent any turning........Just a thought..
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Post by RGR 60130 on Jan 16, 2022 8:54:09 GMT
Alan,
I will indeed be fitting a couple of grub screws after the pins are finally in position. I seem to remember showing the method I use when doing some for a Britannia.
Reg
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Post by delaplume on Jan 16, 2022 20:13:46 GMT
Alan, I will indeed be fitting a couple of grub screws after the pins are finally in position. I seem to remember showing the method I use when doing some for a Britannia. Reg Hello Reg---- sorry,yes---you did didn't you.... Ho-Hum... time to prod my brain cell again !!
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Post by delaplume on Jan 16, 2022 20:18:34 GMT
Spent a lovely afternoon hauling passengers with my Polly 5 at the Wrexham Club track-----No probs, 100% reliable, ace breakfast !!!......Next week it's Bromsgroves' turn....
Sorry-------forgot the camera.
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Post by andyhigham on Jan 16, 2022 20:19:02 GMT
I got the Lucky 7 boiler hydraulic test, flying colours. The steam test was another matter!!! There was a leak in the pipe from the hand pump and steam pump to the clack. It would still feed the boiler but just as much (or more) sprayed out. The injector was feeding but a lot of water out of the overflow, it is full of green gunge. The safety valves lifted perfectly but didn't close. The springs are rusty!!
I will order a pair of safety valves from Polly tomorrow
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Post by andyhigham on Jan 16, 2022 20:53:21 GMT
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