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Post by modeng2000 on Jan 25, 2023 15:05:00 GMT
EV, and I was in the Scouts!!!
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johnd
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Posts: 281
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Post by johnd on Jan 28, 2023 9:44:42 GMT
Due to getting older and feeling the cold more than i used to, my time spent in the workshop has gradually reduced. Time to do something about it. On to good old fleabay and a 2kw diesel under cab heater arrived in the post this morning. I’m told this should be good for about 150 sqft, we shall see, my workshop is only 80 sqft. At the moment i intend to mount the unit inside under bench with the fuel tank, running on heating oil (Kerosene), on the outside. The other option would be to mount outside in a box and duct outlet through wall. Just got to wait till it gets warmer to install.
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Post by andyhigham on Jan 28, 2023 10:38:50 GMT
I assume the exhaust will be ducted to the outside
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Post by chris vine on Jan 28, 2023 10:39:21 GMT
Hi John,
I am not familiar with your type of heater. Is it the type where the products of combustion come into the workshop - like those "jet engine" style workshop heaters? If so, it will certainly heat the workshop for you, but you will have to run it for long enough for the metal in your workshop to warm up. Otherwise, you will get a lot of condensation of the water vapour in its exhaust onto the cold metal surfaces. Once warmed up, it should be ok.
Chris.
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Post by andyhigham on Jan 28, 2023 10:46:30 GMT
My point was the worry of carbon monoxide poisoning
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johnd
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Post by johnd on Jan 28, 2023 11:19:39 GMT
Hi gents with regard to the heater. This type of heater is the type used inside of motor homes and truck cabs, no products of combustion come into the workshop. The combustion air inlet and the exhaust are outside and the heat exchanger recirculates the workshop air inside, so no combustion gases are inside. Of course a carbon monoxide monitor will be used. These heaters have been used for years inside motor homes and trucks and are very safe.
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JonL
Elder Statesman
WWSME (Wiltshire)
Posts: 2,907
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Post by JonL on Jan 28, 2023 11:37:51 GMT
I use the same kind, be sure to route the exhaust away from anything flammable, it gets incredibly hot! I use two carbon monoxide detectors of different brands to give myself some sort of backup. They go off when I run the lister outside the door so they do work.
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johnd
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Post by johnd on Jan 28, 2023 11:52:26 GMT
I use the same kind, be sure to route the exhaust away from anything flammable, it gets incredibly hot! I use two carbon monoxide detectors of different brands to give myself some sort of backup. They go off when I run the lister outside the door so they do work. Yes the flexible stainless exhaust pipe does get very hot, the heater came with a roll of exhaust rap just for this reason. Had one of these heaters in a VW motorhome back in the 1980’s, it worked fantastic and was plumbed direct from the main fuel tank.
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stevep
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,070
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Post by stevep on Jan 28, 2023 12:19:48 GMT
I believe that, if you want to avoid condensation on your machine tools, and the subsequent rust, you need to keep them warm all the time. Turning the heating on when you go into the workshop, and off when you leave, is the worst thing.
In both my last and present workshops, I have put in lots of insulation, and installed a couple of tubular heaters (less than 100 watts each, IIRC), wired up to a normal domestic central heating thermostat. I set the temperature to about 10 degrees, and leave it on all the time.
The workshop is not so hot that if you start sawing or filing, you have to start shedding layers of clothing, but it is warm enough to prevent the machine tools getting any condensation on them.
The 2 Kw heater may be found to be a bit excessive - although if it is on a thermostat, it will be turned off a lot of the time.
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johnd
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Post by johnd on Jan 28, 2023 12:51:47 GMT
The 2 Kw heater may be found to be a bit excessive - although if it is on a thermostat, it will be turned off a lot of the time. Just been reading the installation guide manual and the heater has six settings set by a electronic control module, so i will try running on the lowest to start. It also includes a bluetooth remote switch which can control heater from house. Just measured heater body, came out to 400x170x150 or 16”x6”x 61/2”
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Post by keith1500 on Jan 28, 2023 14:50:45 GMT
There’s been lots on you tube about installing these heaters in sheds/ workshops. Also some talk about what fuels they will burn. So you might be able to run it on something cheaper than normal diesel.
It be interesting to hear your review on it and what works well what doesn't.
Good luck
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Post by ettingtonliam on Jan 28, 2023 15:00:46 GMT
Presumably heating oil should be OK, and a lot cheaper than road diesel.
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johnd
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Post by johnd on Jan 28, 2023 17:10:57 GMT
There’s been lots on you tube about installing these heaters in sheds/ workshops. Also some talk about what fuels they will burn. So you might be able to run it on something cheaper than normal diesel. It be interesting to hear your review on it and what works well what doesn't. Good luck I will probably post an installation thread in due course, the heater will be run on domestic heating oil (Kerosene)
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JonL
Elder Statesman
WWSME (Wiltshire)
Posts: 2,907
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Post by JonL on Jan 28, 2023 19:05:31 GMT
Rapid changes of temperature in the workshop do cause condensation, so I cover my lathe and mill with a blanket which is breathable. My grandad did the same with the lathe when he had it. No rust so far.
Talking of which, I've had a bit of an admin day today, cleaning the workshop, tonnes of swarf from under the lathe, and finding a better home for my wheelchair. Its used enough to justify it being out, but not used enough to justify tripping over it all the time! Its now tucked under the end bench so it can be retrieved from the doorway if required. Ironically it is in the same storage as my bike, but I only ever need one at a time depending on how things are going.
Got to plumb up the Waterpump on the britannia soon. Need to find a good place to mount the bypass valve which is easily accesible across the tender, then make one that suits its location.
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Post by andyhigham on Jan 28, 2023 19:29:46 GMT
To load locos onto our club track means crossing the main track as the steaming bays are inside the track. We had a lift off section of track but it was heavy and meant standing on the track whilst installing and removing it. We now have a pair of hinged sections to span the gap, think tower bridge. I have built a couple of boxes with flashing LEDs that mount under the pivoting sections, they have a tilt switch in each. If either section is lowered beyond 45 degrees (adjustable) the LEDs on both sides will flash alternately and the signal before the bridge will be set to danger 20230128_141208 by Sigma Projects, on Flickr 20230128_140914 by Sigma Projects, on Flickr
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jem
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,064
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Post by jem on Jan 29, 2023 18:43:34 GMT
I have several old central heating burners complete, and here in Spain there are very good you tube videos on how to repair them, so now they all work fine. I have experimented in using diesel fuel mixed with old engine oil, and it seems that you can use up to 50% mix, thus cutting the cost of fuel by half, of cause the old oil does need a bit of filtering.
Jem
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dscott
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Post by dscott on Jan 31, 2023 0:23:15 GMT
A phone call from Jacquie Blackgates started the morning with a reference to a debit card. Then onwards to tidying and filling the new drawers and a sweep up.
Resting from a standing up and walking round a Model Railway exhibition near Southampton. Some lovely models, trade stands selling tempting tools and an encouraging number of younger body's participating.
David and Lily.
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Post by cplmickey on Feb 2, 2023 9:06:15 GMT
In both my last and present workshops, I have put in lots of insulation, and installed a couple of tubular heaters (less than 100 watts each, IIRC), wired up to a normal domestic central heating thermostat. I set the temperature to about 10 degrees, and leave it on all the time. I do the same. My latest tube heater from ebay came with a built in thermostat so even easier and possibly cheaper than having the 2 units. Ian
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Post by jon38r80 on Feb 2, 2023 18:04:45 GMT
to keep my workshop/garage above the dew point ( when water condenses out on anything cold) as its only a 1/2 brick thick walls, I lined it with 50mm of foil faced phenolic resin insulation on the walls and 20mm of expanded polystyrene on the metal up and over door so that it can still be lifted. The heat to keep it above the dew point is provided by a 6 foot tubular greenhouse heater with a built in thermostat. which keeps it warm enough in winter and when Im working just turn on an oil filled radiator that is thermostatically controlled. It doesnt cost a fortune to run either. The insulation keeps it bearable in the summer too. Well worth the initial effort of insulation. It didnt cost much as I rescued the wall insulation from a skip on the site I was on at the time.
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stevep
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Post by stevep on Feb 3, 2023 9:16:01 GMT
The insulation is the key.
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