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Post by Deleted on Feb 12, 2016 18:09:19 GMT
that's a lovely job you've done there...beautifully neat sir...
Pete
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jma1009
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Post by jma1009 on Feb 12, 2016 22:10:07 GMT
absolutely superb! well done Mike! note the square base to the chimney.
cheers, julian
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miken
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Post by miken on Feb 17, 2016 20:22:41 GMT
Thank you for the kind comments. I am having a break from machining and have been doing a bit of boiler bashing. This is just the outer shell.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 17, 2016 23:19:30 GMT
Very nice Mike....i have been giving some thought to my own boiler of late...i'll certainly need to make a start on it soon...I note your steel flange plate former's..i will probably go down this route myself...should keep me busy for a while.... cheers Pete
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Post by ejparrott on Feb 17, 2016 23:25:05 GMT
Wasting no time, good on you Mike!
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jma1009
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Post by jma1009 on Feb 18, 2016 0:06:55 GMT
hi mike,
yes, agree with ed you are cracking on!
i do enjoy boiler work. looks a very well proportioned boiler.
do please give us a few more details please! are you 'step silver soldering' and if so what are the above joints done with? the extension piece on the firebox side looks exceptionally well done and without any rivets.
(hope completion of the lovely LBSCR J tank isnt being delayed!)
cheers, julian
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miken
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Post by miken on Feb 18, 2016 15:03:36 GMT
Julian, I am doing all the tubes in the firebox front plate with silverflow 24. Everything else will be with 55. Pete, I made the formers from 12mm thick alloy plate. We have a bandsaw at work which is just the job. Then mill the straight bits. Kitchen worktop sandwiched together for the firebox and rear boiler shell formers
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Post by Deleted on Feb 18, 2016 16:03:40 GMT
thank's for the info Mike...Alloy is easier to work with although not so good for cutting tools....sounds like a way to go though...I'll ask my youngest boy what scraps they have at his work..think that may decide what I use for mine.
many thanks
Pete
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miken
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Post by miken on Mar 12, 2016 8:13:58 GMT
Here is most of the stuff that has to fit in the smoke box. Steam reservoirs and LP by-pass valve. Still have to work out the snifting arrangement. Its a bit crowded when its all assembled inside. The use of a balanced LP slide valve simplified the plumbing. I think I will have to make up an extension ball ended allen key to go down the chimney to reach some of the screws. The prototype was not superheated, but i think I think the model will need all the help it can get or else the LP cylinder will just be running on warm water! They also ran a lot higher pressure than I will be using.
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Post by GWR 101 on Mar 12, 2016 12:23:05 GMT
Hi Mike, crikey that sure is a lot of stuff to fit in, makes my Juliet look almost empty. Its a great job you are doing there, regards Paul
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Post by gingerneer on Mar 22, 2016 7:59:41 GMT
Lovely work, how are you sealing the LP balanced valve?
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miken
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Post by miken on Mar 22, 2016 18:53:44 GMT
Lovely work, how are you sealing the LP balanced valve? Gingerneer, the LP valve is iron with an iron inverted top hat that will run and hopefully seal against the underside of the iron valve chest cover. Hopefully you can see that there is an O-ring in the bore of the valve part to seal the 2 together. A visit to my local car tyre centre and the nice man gave me a handful of shraeder valves. Each one contains a small, hopefully rust resistant spring. These fit in the locating holes to force the 2 components apart to make the seal. One of the many challenges in this locomotive is the severe lack of height available to the model maker inside the smoke box. The prototype was also afflicted with this problem. Mr Webb's LP cylinders were cast with the valve chest integral and the valve was inserted from the front of the engine through a slot. The lack of space meant that the LP valve could not pass enough steam at high speeds even in full gear. Which is why when they were rebuilt they were converted to slip eccebtric. I have chosen to make the valve chest the usual model engineer way with a separate valve chest and cover. which means an increase in height inside the smoke box. Because of the width of the slide valve and steam ports there isnt much room to get many valve chest studs in so I have had to make the valve chest cover quite thick to keep it rigid which raises it even more.
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miken
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Post by miken on May 15, 2016 20:29:27 GMT
Parts for the HP Joy gear. Somehow it seems all wrong to drill a hole in the middle of a con rod. Unusually, On the prototype the bronze small end bush was keyed to the cross head pin and this worked directly in the eye of the con-rod which had a pressed in steel liner. I have chosen to do it the more conventional way.
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miken
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Post by miken on May 15, 2016 20:35:58 GMT
Some other parts compared with photos of original components;
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Post by springcrocus on May 15, 2016 21:07:34 GMT
First class job, Mike, some lovely looking components.
Steve
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jma1009
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Post by jma1009 on May 15, 2016 21:35:18 GMT
Knowing how complicated the fullsize locos were I can appreciatte what a superb job Mike is doing, plus once again as per his lovely Bessborough without published drawings and an incredible amount of research, work, and skill involved.
Cheers, Julian
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miken
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Post by miken on May 20, 2016 19:22:12 GMT
I am told that the LNWR had a reputation for parsimony, "Why make that valve form gunmetal when cast iron will do?" And yet surprisingly, Mr Webb specified solid phosphor bronze ends for the anchor links of the Joy valve gear. With no bushes. So they must have been a throw away job when they wore out.
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jma1009
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Post by jma1009 on May 20, 2016 21:10:21 GMT
Hi Mike,
Wonderful as ever! Superb work! I wish you would post more and describe please how the bits are made!
Cheers, Julian
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miken
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Post by miken on May 25, 2016 19:28:32 GMT
Hi Mike, I wish you would post more and describe please how the bits are made! Cheers, Julian Alright then Julian; Here are the next parts I have made for the HP Joy gear. But first, Just for interest, here is the design for the valve gear. It was drawn up for me by a very clever club member. Here is a copy of an original drawing of a selection of Francis Webbs standard parts. Not necessarily Dreadnought components. So, this week I have made the radius rods. These are fish-bellied items with an eye at each end. First I made a highly technical drawing like this: It may not be obvious, but I am not a trained draughtsman. I just do sketches as I go along using a Biro and a calculator. Next I make a jig to assist with the machining of the rods.
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miken
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Post by miken on May 25, 2016 19:45:07 GMT
Next I found some square material and pitched out the holes in each end. Mill to width and thickness; Onto the milling jig and start to rough profile the rods First I milled them parallel, then undid the m/c vice and tapped it round a bit ( about 1 Deg) to produce the fish belly part. I find the easisest way to produce a fish belly rod is to just taper the ends of then blend it with a file.
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