uuu
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Post by uuu on Aug 25, 2016 17:18:45 GMT
Another Wednesday report: I suppose it was all my fault that progress on John's loco was slow yesterday. You see I'd been seduced again on ebay, by a "bargain" - a 127-tooth change wheel for my Myford. Only it was for an earlier model, so didn't have a keyway in the bore. John's lent me his shaper, and a tool that I can grind to size, so I'll be able to cut the slot. I promise to post pictures later, when this is done. I quite admire shaping machines - very satisfying to slowly (so slowly) slice away at things. But as one thing leads to another - I wanted to also cut a keyway in the banjo fitting that holds the changewheels. My lathe normally runs with an electro-magnetic clutch on the leadscrew, so I can engage/disengage fine feeds. This comes straight off, but then I have to prise the key out of the shaft to get the banjo on for screwcutting. Not any more, as we used John's 4mm broach (in a new bush we made to fit) to slot out the banjo to pass over the key. Then a discussion on the merits of hardening horn cheeks. Jessie has horn facings made of gauge plate - "harden and temper" according to the drawing. The first batch distorted - so are going to be ground undersize and used in the Slate Waggon. I'm rather thinking I'll leave the second batch unhardened. I could have another go - or send them of to be professionally done. But I suspect they'll outlive me, and if they don't, I can knock up some more and just screw them on. So John did drill a few more holes yesterday, but not as many as he ought. Wilf
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uuu
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Post by uuu on Aug 26, 2016 10:20:15 GMT
This turned out to be quite easy. Step 1 - grinding the tool to size: Step 2 - in the shaper, gently slicing out the slot: And TaDa!! Wilf P.S. Although this activity is not AT the Pumphouse, it's using stuff FROM the Pumphouse, so it qualifies!
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johnthepump
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Building 7 1/4"G Edward Thomas
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Post by johnthepump on Aug 26, 2016 13:27:39 GMT
Nice job Wilf, The cutter grinder looks to be very versatile and seems to have made short work of reducing the width of the tool to the 1/8" required. It good to see my shaper in action again.
Just for information the 4mm key way that we cut on Wednesday evening to make a clearance slot to make the banjo unit easy to remove without taking the woodruff key out of the leadscrew was done using a duMont broach, I changed to using these when I had to put keyways in replacement chainwheels on grading equipment that I used to maintain.
For the odd imperial keyways I still resort to the old method using the little Adept shaper.
John.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 26, 2016 15:02:05 GMT
Oooo...I do like that shaper, I didn't realise you could use these for cutting keyways....now where can I find one of those?..now on my wish list... nice work Pete
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Post by Roger on Aug 26, 2016 15:22:10 GMT
That's a pretty little shaper, but you can still do the keyways in the lathe if needs must. I did the 30mm long keyway in the Mild Steel Poly-Vee drive pulley in the lathe, and that's a 6mm wide key.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 26, 2016 15:37:16 GMT
That's a pretty little shaper, but you can still do the keyways in the lathe if needs must. I did the 30mm long keyway in the Mild Steel Poly-Vee drive pulley in the lathe, and that's a 6mm wide key. Hi Roger I had read of broaching using a lathe but it came with warnings of possible damage to the lathe. My press isn't big enough for the wheels which is a bit of a pain, perhaps I should look at using the lathe as an option? I could just pop along to my son's and use his hydraulic press at work but I'm not that keen as I'd feel under pressure (even though I wouldn't be) to get the job done quickly. With this being in a foreign environment it's probably not a good thing to do. Anyway no need to think about this now, still too damn hot and next week my wife is off work which tends to stop production more efficiently than a typical union strike...lol
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Post by Roger on Aug 26, 2016 15:55:18 GMT
Hi Pete, I think a broach with a guide is probably the most accurate way to produce a keyway. Perhaps someone on the Forum close to you has a press? My friend has one and I'm certain he'd be more than happy for you to use it, but we're over near Gatwick so it's a bit of a trek. I never take too seriously Dire warnings from people who've probably never done what they're warning about. You're only planing small shavings off, so it's not really that brutal. Yes, it's not ideal, but it's not terminal either. I wouldn't do it on a very light lathe, but something as big as a Harrison for example is going to be fine.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 26, 2016 16:05:25 GMT
Cheers Roger...the lathe could be a fall back option then...thanks for the kind offer re press...yes Gatwick is a bit far away and then there's the 'working in foreign lands' issue too.....I'm sure that I'll work something out. At least I can make the crank now that I'm going the 'Loctite' route and I have so much to do that I'll never be wanting for work...I may go back to doing some of the finer detail soon...that's always good for the soul...well it is for mine... cheers Pete
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Post by simplyloco on Aug 26, 2016 19:18:35 GMT
Hi Pete, I think a broach with a guide is probably the most accurate way to produce a keyway. Perhaps someone on the Forum close to you has a press? My friend has one and I'm certain he'd be more than happy for you to use it, but we're over near Gatwick so it's a bit of a trek. I never take too seriously Dire warnings from people who've probably never done what they're warning about. You're only planing small shavings off, so it's not really that brutal. Yes, it's not ideal, but it's not terminal either. I wouldn't do it on a very light lathe, but something as big as a Harrison for example is going to be fine. I've cut many a keyway successfully on the lathe, using just a fat boring tool and light cuts. On a big lathe e.g. a DSG 11", if it was put in bottom gear the chuck didn't move much on each pass, but on a ME lathe I would imagine some sort of locking arrangement would be necessary. I can't imagine that any damage would be done to any lathe using this method: doom mongers rule OK?
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Post by Roger on Aug 26, 2016 19:41:32 GMT
Hi Pete, I think a broach with a guide is probably the most accurate way to produce a keyway. Perhaps someone on the Forum close to you has a press? My friend has one and I'm certain he'd be more than happy for you to use it, but we're over near Gatwick so it's a bit of a trek. I never take too seriously Dire warnings from people who've probably never done what they're warning about. You're only planing small shavings off, so it's not really that brutal. Yes, it's not ideal, but it's not terminal either. I wouldn't do it on a very light lathe, but something as big as a Harrison for example is going to be fine. I've cut many a keyway successfully on the lathe, using just a fat boring tool and light cuts. On a big lathe e.g. a DSG 11", if it was put in bottom gear the chuck didn't move much on each pass, but on a ME lathe I would imagine some sort of locking arrangement would be necessary. I can't imagine that any damage would be done to any lathe using this method: doom mongers rule OK? Indeed, I really don't see an issue. I reckon you could select the highest possible pitch for a thread and that would probably lock the head well enough. I don't have that problem on the Warco, because there's an electromagnetic brake on the motor and pulley drive system, so it's locked when you activate the brake.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 26, 2016 20:08:06 GMT
ahh..I hadn't thought about that....can't do it on my lathe then, not without making up some sort of lock which doesn't exactly appeal to me right now....I'll find a way though....
Cheers
Pete
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Post by simplyloco on Aug 26, 2016 21:37:38 GMT
ahh..I hadn't thought about that....can't do it on my lathe then, not without making up some sort of lock which doesn't exactly appeal to me right now....I'll find a way though.... Cheers Pete A ratchet strap round the chuck and to a peg on the wall would be fine!
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Post by Deleted on Aug 26, 2016 21:57:38 GMT
Thanks for the suggestion John, don't think it's viable though, building is wooden and the lathe is in the wrong place to get a strap around the one solid item, that being the steel girder supporting the roof and since that is only screwed to the wooden walls it isn't exactly solid. I'll find a way or keep an eye open for a larger press, in fact the firm that I got mine from did have larger versions sitting around doing nothing, I might ask my son to have a word as it's next door to him. Then I'd just need to find somewhere to put the damn thing...lol
cheers
Pete
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Post by springcrocus on Aug 26, 2016 22:02:28 GMT
Since most spindles are directly geared to the screw-cutting arrangements at the left-hand end, it shouldn't be too difficult to arrange some interlocking gears that freeze everything solid. Saying that, I just get on and make my own broaches, it's all part of the game as far as I'm concerned. Steve
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jma1009
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Post by jma1009 on Aug 26, 2016 22:39:20 GMT
Hi Pete,
Adept shapers - someone in the North London Club will have one you can borrow. They are lots about
I was always told that what was termed 'racking' on the lathe was not a good thing on something like a Myford 7. You can make up a special attachment to do this by hand on the lathe like the Adept, or just borrow an Adept!
Cheers, Julian
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Post by Deleted on Aug 26, 2016 23:11:17 GMT
Thanks for that info julian...sounds like a useful tool...I best read up on them a little...
cheers
Pete
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chrisb
Part of the e-furniture
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Post by chrisb on Aug 27, 2016 8:21:40 GMT
There is a bit in the Myford 7 series manual by Ian Bradley that describes a shaping attachment.
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Post by 4fbuilder on Aug 27, 2016 20:16:21 GMT
Good evening folks, Have a look at: - www.hemingwaykits.com the keyway slotting attachment, probably a better option than racking the saddle for cutting small keyways, although I must admit to recently racking a dozen or more 3mm kwyways through 20mm steel on my old Super 7. Regards, Bob
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johnthepump
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Building 7 1/4"G Edward Thomas
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Post by johnthepump on Aug 28, 2016 9:18:52 GMT
I'm surprised how much interest putting a keyway into Wilf's 127 tooth gear has generated. So I will add to it with regard to what is called Racking. The term Racking obviously comes from the use of the lathe carriage hand wheel which is engage in the tooth rack under the front lathe way. I have owned my little Myford ML2 since I was 6 years old, when my father bought his new ML7 ( which he also passed onto me). I have now owned the ML2 for 65 years and the original Batwin 1/4hp. motor still drives it today. I n the time my father owned the ML2 he used it extensively and made several useful additions one of which was to do with racking. In the Photo below can be seen a steel bracket at the back of the tailstock, there was a handle that pivoted on this passing behind the tailstock to the operators hand, in line between the bed ways was a link bar that went under the tailstock and connecting the operating handle to the underside of the carriage, the tapped hole at the back of the carriage with the bolt still in place can seen in the photo. Although I didn't have the lever and link bar to hand I don't think they are lost but are in deep storage, ( deep storage is one of those junk boxes under the bench full of things that might come in handy). 27.08.2016 by John The Pump, on Flickr A further point was made about not being able to lock the mandrel up on some lathes. Well this is the way I used to do it on the ML2. By mounting a 60 toothed wheel on the mandrel and a loaded pawl on one of the gear train studs, this hold the mandrel in position and also can be used to divide, holes in cylinder covers comes to mind. John. 27.08.2016 by John The Pump, on Flickr
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Post by Deleted on Aug 28, 2016 10:10:14 GMT
Hi guys
Going back to the Adept shapers...I've been trying to find a manual online, have found some for other machines but not the Adept, in particular, the Adept No. 2......is anyone aware of a link to such a manual online, please??
cheers
Pete
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