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Post by Cro on Nov 16, 2018 6:31:50 GMT
Been reading this as the updates have come in. I don't think alum will work as effectively as you would like in your situation as when I have used it I have had to pot simmering over gas for the duration of the process.
Considering these are mild steel studs I think your best option would be to use your fitting to mark up the holes onto a jig locating in the two boiler feed holes and drill the studs out. Drill size just under the root of the thread Dia and hopefully then run a tap through to get the rest of it out.
Best of luck. Adam
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Midland
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Post by Midland on Nov 16, 2018 11:25:12 GMT
A new thought. A friend has suggested spark erosion. Any thoughts?? D Spark erosion certainly works, but you have to line it up as accurately as if you were drilling it out because out will spark away anything. That's off the list then, thanks Roger. Still want to get the chemicals to work even if it takes time! D
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Midland
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Post by Midland on Nov 16, 2018 11:27:20 GMT
Been reading this as the updates have come in. I don't think alum will work as effectively as you would like in your situation as when I have used it I have had to pot simmering over gas for the duration of the process. Considering these are mild steel studs I think your best option would be to use your fitting to mark up the holes onto a jig locating in the two boiler feed holes and drill the studs out. Drill size just under the root of the thread Dia and hopefully then run a tap through to get the rest of it out. Best of luck. Adam Hi Adam, just found this, just have to get the courage to drill the blessed thing. Will work on the drilling template anyway as this may be the only way out! Thanks David
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Post by Cro on Nov 16, 2018 13:28:24 GMT
Roger did a post on how he did something similar for a friends boiler on a regulator bush I think? Hopefully he can point us in the right direction to read up on it.
Good luck!
Adam
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Midland
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Post by Midland on Nov 20, 2018 18:45:38 GMT
Despite all the plans, none worked so we drilled the studs out, plain and simple. Just to be safe they will tap as 7 BA or something metric I am told as 7 BA is the same as something 'mm'. A bit like mixing lamp and mutton. However with the assistance of Simplyloco, oh there I go again, with my assistance (I held the light) SL drilled them out, well at least I did show him which loco to drill!!!! D
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Post by steamer5 on Nov 21, 2018 7:52:30 GMT
The light holder did an excellent job! Oh........sounds like the guy on the drill did an alright job too! When we did mine it took awhile to get up the courage to take the plunge!
Any pictures of the job being done?
Cheers Kerrin
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Midland
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Post by Midland on Nov 21, 2018 20:13:45 GMT
Hi Kerrin Yes took a bit to take the plunge here but drilling a hole is simple and could be viewed as boring so lets start with an example, here is my younger son at about 5 or 6 acquiring the art, DIY Expert 1 by David Goyder, on Flickr, a slightly older driller, IMG_1104 by David Goyder, on Flickr, and on the end of the drill was concdentration, IMG_1105 by David Goyder, on Flickr, and here is the drill, IMG_1112 by David Goyder, on Flickr, but now for the best bit, this little drill is from Lidl and cost 10 or 15 but has an very low speed at 1 and a good speed at 2, so it can do the job but I use it to raise and lower the loco lift when in low gear, IMG_1108 by David Goyder, on Flickr which allows the lifter to raise the loco to the bench level (high), lower it to the hatch at car boot level (medium) or lower to the mezzanine level below the bench where the 990 is stored with its tender. My biggest problem here is logistics, too many projects but I love them all and SL and I are off to see another tomorrow!!! Whoopeeee! Regards David PS At supper tonight my dear diamond ring bearer asked me if I needed a bigger workshop, I think she was taking the P!
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Midland
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Posts: 1,870
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Post by Midland on Nov 21, 2018 20:25:30 GMT
I have reminded myself of the story about the man asked another chap to fix his "engine". After studying it for a while he pulled out a little hammer and gave the engine a light tap. Then he asked for his fee of £100. One hundred quid, you must be kidding!!!!. Yes sir it is £1 for the tap and £99 for where to apply it. He got paid! D
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Post by steamer5 on Nov 22, 2018 8:35:05 GMT
Hi David, Yeah gods free hand! SL is by far a brave chap! My Dad & I spent ages coming up with cunning ideas on how to do this, free hand wasn’t even an considered viable! I hope you both had a soothing ale or maybe 2 after that!
Thanks for the photos, nice to see you are training them young too!
Cheers Kerrin
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Midland
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Post by Midland on Nov 28, 2018 20:45:59 GMT
Hi It has been a while plucking up the courage to tap these holes but the job is done. Six SS studs in place and it appears that 'SL' did actually drill the holes in the correct places except for one that we knew about. So six studs in and the valve fits. Screw it up tight tomorrow with a little gunge and back in operation soon! IMG_1120 by David Goyder, on Flickr Cheers David
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Post by simplyloco on Nov 29, 2018 7:27:22 GMT
Jolly good!
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Midland
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Post by Midland on Nov 29, 2018 9:18:16 GMT
Thank you all. Reflecting on the gunge. I think I will cut a gasket from some 1/2 mm pvc sheet as the original was a gasket and I do not want to find the gunge (Stag A) has seeped into the steam or water passage. I think Roger said that this stuff fill the gap when hot. Any thoughts?? D
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Post by Roger on Nov 29, 2018 9:55:55 GMT
Thank you all. Reflecting on the gunge. I think I will cut a gasket from some 1/2 mm pvc sheet as the original was a gasket and I do not want to find the gunge (Stag A) has seeped into the steam or water passage. I think Roger said that this stuff fill the gap when hot. Any thoughts?? D Hi David, I wouldn't think PVC sheet would be suitable it would go soft when it gets hot. Can't you just use some conventional gasket material that's thick enough to 'give' a little?
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Midland
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Post by Midland on Nov 29, 2018 10:46:17 GMT
[/quote]Hi David, I wouldn't think PVC sheet would be suitable it would go soft when it gets hot. Can't you just use some conventional gasket material that's thick enough to 'give' a little? [/quote]
Thanks Roger, will try that. D
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Post by Roger on Nov 29, 2018 11:28:32 GMT
Hi David, I wouldn't think PVC sheet would be suitable it would go soft when it gets hot. Can't you just use some conventional gasket material that's thick enough to 'give' a little? [/quote] Thanks Roger, will try that. D If you're really stuck, you could use thin PTFE sheet, I've got some that might do the job. It's soft and compliant, possibly too soft, but if it leaks and you don't want to use gunk, then it might provide a solution.
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Post by simplyloco on Nov 29, 2018 11:41:25 GMT
Thank you all. Reflecting on the gunge. I think I will cut a gasket from some 1/2 mm pvc sheet as the original was a gasket and I do not want to find the gunge (Stag A) has seeped into the steam or water passage. I think Roger said that this stuff fill the gap when hot. Any thoughts?? D David There's plenty of different gasket material in my workshop. If you can't wait until Monday I could give you the door safe code? John Sunning himself in Egypt
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Midland
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Post by Midland on Nov 29, 2018 12:07:45 GMT
Thanks John, have some plain gasket somewhere in the project room. Glad to see you are happy in Egypt, wind, rain here horrible!
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Midland
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Post by Midland on Nov 29, 2018 19:32:08 GMT
For those of you who have the slightest interest in my incompetence, I can offer you a trail of blunders, cockups and crazies but I can say that the valve is in place screwed up hard, but what a process to get there! We left this story with SimplyLoco (SL) drilling out the studs. He vamoosed off to Egypt to lie in the sun and gaze at the Spinx or admire the camels but he did leave me some of those dreaded metric things, some taps and a half dozen 2.5 mm bolts and nuts on the assumption that I knew what to do. So tapped the holes put the screws in, tightened them up with a little Allen key and asked myself what next. Aha, cut the heads off, thank you Dremel. That left a bloody awful mess, the nuts would not go on. Took them out, filed the mess straight, buggered the treads in the process and finished for the day with a little Sicilian, wine btw, not what you are thinking! And the studs were too short. Now SL had said something about 2.5 mm being very close to 7BA. perhaps there was a way out here. Searched around and found my SS box and indeed had some 1/8th inch SS rod. A bit big but I used, for the first time, the ER collet gismo that came with the new lathe and indeed it does run true. Poked a bit out and reduced the diameter and could now make a 7BA stud. Thank god for the new lathe (bless you SL),sympathy for those poor buggers trying to get by with Myfords from 1950!!! So Now I had 7BA studs in SS. I put points on the tops so the nut would sit there and be easily wound down. And indeed the nuts went on and the valve is in place. I will show some pictures but the interesting one is where there is no access to the top of the stud. Inside the valve, I had to put selected nuts on, then pull it out, put the nut in on the top of the stud and then hold it with my hand while I tried to get the threads to take up and do their job. Anyway the valve is in place and ready to be hydraulic and steam tested. Failure = suicide or a lot of vino!!!!! Exhausted but at least I learnt a lot, stamp collecting takes on a new attraction every day! The new ones IMG_1121 by David Goyder, on Flickr Now how do you get to those two, three actually, IMG_1124 by David Goyder, on Flickr In place IMG_1125 by David Goyder, on Flickr All done PS Nearly forgot the little holes in the middle, IMG_1122 by David Goyder, on Flickr and I should add that I have two engineering assistants unfortunately metric trained, Sammy and Suki who sit on my grandson's bed and advise (boss) me. IMG_1117 by David Goyder, on Flickr Cheers David
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Post by David on Nov 30, 2018 0:45:18 GMT
David, good to see I'm not the only one who takes the long way round when building or fixing things! It does look pretty tight in there to get some of the nuts on.
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Midland
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Post by Midland on Dec 7, 2018 18:41:44 GMT
Progress showing but have come up against a wee problem, I need a little valve and by little I mean little. But first for all for you who like PTFE tape, once I had taken off the RH water gauge I found this, picture below. IMG_1127 by David Goyder, on Flickr Took a bit of micro surgery to get that and more out. Hate the stuff Now to the real reason I am here. Have a look at the backhead, a plumbers nightmare. IMG_1134 by David Goyder, on Flickr Now I need to give you a guided tour and you will see why soon. Starting left with just the handles, steam to the oil, blower and LH injector. Going to the RHS top is steam to auxillaries, vacuum ejector and the RH injector. The auxillaries are steam brakes and steam sanding. The turret in the middle takes off the steam for the oil and pressure gauge to the left and the whistle valve(mounted on top) on the right. Now if you look at the left lower side there is a little pipe poking its nose out and that is the pipe to the steam operated drain cocks, I need to get steam there. But how? IMG_1136 by David Goyder, on Flickr The only place would appear to be the mini manifold on the auxilleries line where I could tap in a pipes and run it across the top of the top of the boiler and down the left hand side. I made a steam brake valve for this job but it is monsterous and there is no room. I have thought of a sort tubular valve that twists through 90 degrees to apply steam or open the drain. One of our members has the same sort of thing on his German loco. It must be like a water valve. Has anyone seen one of these. I think I saw one on ad Australian website but have lost it. Cheers David
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