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Post by Deleted on Oct 16, 2019 21:49:07 GMT
Hi David
Not sure if it's of any help but I covered how I did my hinges in a fair amount of detail. The info starts on page 99.
Cheers
Pete
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Post by mugbuilder on Oct 17, 2019 4:20:50 GMT
This is what Dave is going to finisjh up with.  |
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Post by mugbuilder on Oct 17, 2019 4:27:00 GMT
the front view  |
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Post by steamer5 on Oct 17, 2019 6:45:22 GMT
Hi Barry,
Now she looks very nice! You just need to get her covered in oil & cinders!
Cheers Kerrin
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Post by Jim on Oct 18, 2019 6:24:56 GMT
Hi David, I guess you saw the MAPP gas torch kits Aldi had the other day for $50? David Proctor got me one from the last three in the Jamieson Aldi store. They are a very handy bit of kit at a fraction of the price in machinery/tool shops.
Jim
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Post by David on Oct 18, 2019 9:47:57 GMT
I didn't! That's a shame.
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Post by Jim on Oct 18, 2019 18:56:50 GMT
They will come round again David as most of these things are cyclic. It pays to check Aldi's weekly specials as they have regular specials on tools such as digital gauges, hole saws and the latest, a MAPP gas kit.
Jim
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Post by David on Oct 22, 2019 4:38:09 GMT
Good progress on the smokebox door. It's about ready to have the hinges attached, I just need to clean them up and round off the ends. My plan was to have an MDF 'top hat' to fit both the opening in the smokebox and the cavity on the back of the door but this didn't work out for various reasons. So I made up a custom 3/16" bolt and a nut (luckily I had the die and I found a tap in a sparkplug tin I took from my father's shed) and held things in place with that. I centered the door as best I could by eye. I drilled the hinges last night, and had to make a 'long drill' to open out the holes in the little lugs the hinge pin goes through because I only have 2.6mm wire, not the 2.5mm they were drilled for, and the lugs have been riveted to the smokebox for a couple of years now. Today I drilled through the hinges into the door. I can't see a problem yet so am hoping it's all as it should be. I did nearly put the hinges inside the lugs until Barry pointed out I had it wrong last week. I've looked at the photos a lot and it just never registered with me.   |
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Post by David on Oct 23, 2019 9:37:35 GMT
An early start today saw the smokebox door attached properly and the threaded locking disc turned. Tonight I made a start on the dart. Really pleased to have the door in place.  |
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Post by David on Oct 25, 2019 9:52:26 GMT
Got the last bits of the door locking mechanism done this afternoon and tonight, and it works! I spent a while thinking about how this works so it wouldn't be too loose and it came off pretty well. The dart's not pretty but after the first steaming it would look like rubbish anyway so I wasn't going to spent time making it shiny. I had two goes at the part with the square hole. The first time I tried to file it - and didn't enjoy it much. So over to the CNC machine with another disc-with-a-hole-in-it. This was turned to 3/8" and put in a 5C collet in a square collet block with a 3.4mm hole drilled in the middle. A 2mm endmill made the hole square and then I could drill for the handle on the manual mill while it was still in the collet. A bit of cleaning up was required because the 2mm endmill couldn't go quite deep enough but it was trivial. The plan was to turn it down to 8.5mm dia before parting it off from the stock but I forgot to do that. I was able to use the dart's shaft as a mandrel (before it had the end soldered on) because the square part was still a force fit prior to cleaning it out. I also rounded the corners of the square shaft to make it fit the rounded corners of the hole. So I took the long route but got there in the end, dodging a few traps.   |
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Post by David on Oct 29, 2019 8:23:28 GMT
A few more hours tonight trying to recover the loco handbrake clevis. The result in no way reflects the time and effort that went into what I thought was going to be a trivial piece of machining! One step closer to everything under the running boards being finished. I still have to determine the best angle to affix it to the brake shaft, and then stick it on. You can see the large gouge in this photo. The damage was in no way improved by the waisting but it's hidden on the inside and bottom of the part.  It still needs a lot of work with a file. I wish I'd used a large diameter endmill on the waisting too.  |
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barlowworks
Statesman
Now finished my other projects, Britannia here I come
Posts: 878 
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Post by barlowworks on Oct 29, 2019 10:44:44 GMT
Hi David, you insist on showing all the trials and tribulations in your build but the end results are exceptional. I must admit I find it most inspiring.
Mike
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Post by Roger on Oct 29, 2019 14:28:10 GMT
A few more hours tonight trying to recover the loco handbrake clevis. The result in no way reflects the time and effort that went into what I thought was going to be a trivial piece of machining! One step closer to everything under the running boards being finished. I still have to determine the best angle to affix it to the brake shaft, and then stick it on. You can see the large gouge in this photo. The damage was in no way improved by the waisting but it's hidden on the inside and bottom of the part. It still needs a lot of work with a file. I wish I'd used a large diameter endmill on the waisting too. Hi David, A good recovery. Sometimes it's just easier with CNC to bin it and start again. Much of the time spent is in the 3D modelling and the preparation of tool paths, so although it feels like it's going to be a huge backward step, it doesn't usually take much time to make another. |
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Post by David on Oct 29, 2019 22:22:22 GMT
Thanks Roger & Mike. I would have done it again if I couldn't get an acceptable result, but I thought I'd see if I could hide the damage. These days it's all about 'good enough' to get the thing closer to finished.
I show the stuff-ups because I enjoy seeing how other people recover from them and it gives encouragement to me that everyone else doesn't just sail through their build with no problems while I feel like it's heavy going a lot of the time. So if people think the result is good and see how many dodgy steps were taken to get there it shows anyone can do it.
The drawing said 35mm between centres on this part and for once I thought to check ahead on the loco. 35mm is what I measured. There have been amazingly few times when I couldn't just blindly build what the plans said and have it work.
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Post by David on Nov 7, 2019 23:19:19 GMT
I've been working on the leaf springs for about a week and a half. They're the last major feature below the running boards that is not done. But today's message is more interesting than that - I finally received the castings for the dummy clack valves. I've started cleaning one up, and they look good. They're bigger than I expected but features like the flange and nuts look correct and everything measures up to my model which was scaled from the works drawing so I'm confident they're ok. I have to turn some threaded sleeves and silver solder them onto the legs and also solder the dummy bolt to the top. I'd feel a lot better soft soldering these bits together, they're awfully expensive to ruin by overheating them. Any opinions on that? They're up the front of the boiler and have hot water going through them so they shouldn't get too hot.  |
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don9f
Statesman
Les Warnett 9F, Martin Evans “Jinty”, a part built “Austin 7” and now a part built Springbok B1.
Posts: 961
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Post by don9f on Nov 7, 2019 23:45:43 GMT
Hi David, personally I would silver solder them....they are subject to boiler pressure at all times with no means of isolating them if something starts to leak or go wrong etc. Hear what you say about hot water going through them but when there’s no flow, they will assume more or less the boiler’s temp. which will be hotter (related to pressure etc.) You shouldn’t have to get them any hotter than dull red for say 55% silver solder.
There are obviously soft solders with different melting points and I don’t know the working pressure of your boiler (temp.) but typical ones would be too close for safety in my opinion.
Out of interest, do you know what metal the clacks are made of....to find the melting temp?
Hope this helps Don
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Post by David on Nov 8, 2019 8:15:14 GMT
I think they're bronze - they're done by the same guy Adam Cro's parts are done by. But the walls of the legs are very thin and I'm also worried about messy soldering at the top. I'm not seriously considering soft solder and I have some very thin silver solder but if it was obvious soft solder would be fine I'd be tempted. I set to this afternoon to try and finish the leaf springs. I should have just drawn them and got them laser cut. They would have been to width, length, and had the hole in the middle! This occurred to me about 2/3 of the way through drilling all the holes and seeing none of the leaves line up with each other.  Now I have some very tricky looking 'hooked' parts to make that hook over the short bits sticking up on the ends of the top spring leafs. |
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Post by steamer5 on Nov 8, 2019 21:52:45 GMT
Hi David,
They look just the part!
I’m sure if you check them out in full size then the look should pretty much match! Keep up the great work!
Cheers Kerrin
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Post by David on Nov 14, 2019 8:08:51 GMT
Contrary to what I said I couldn't bring myself to make the spring hooks by hand. If I'd had a 2mm endmill that had 9mm worth of flutes it would have been a lot easier! I had 3mm left I had to remove with a hacksaw and file. It took a while to get the knack so some look pretty dodgy but you can't see it when they're in place. The narrowing was done with a bench grinder... so no two are alike! Really pleased these are done and there isn't much more to do below the running boards. Here my 3rd (and last) 2mm endmill has just broken right at the end of the run. Lucky timing. 2400 RPM, 15mm/min feed, 0.25mm depth of cut. I thought that would be okay.  I cut them all off on the bandsaw. You may be able to see the 3mm web left because I couldn't get all the way to the bottom with the 2mm endmills.  They're not pretty, but they're most hidden.  I'm glad to see this now!  |
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Post by Roger on Nov 14, 2019 9:30:33 GMT
Contrary to what I said I couldn't bring myself to make the spring hooks by hand. If I'd had a 2mm endmill that had 9mm worth of flutes it would have been a lot easier! I had 3mm left I had to remove with a hacksaw and file. It took a while to get the knack so some look pretty dodgy but you can't see it when they're in place. The narrowing was done with a bench grinder... so no two are alike! Really pleased these are done and there isn't much more to do below the running boards. Here my 3rd (and last) 2mm endmill has just broken right at the end of the run. Lucky timing. 2400 RPM, 15mm/min feed, 0.25mm depth of cut. I thought that would be okay. I cut them all off on the bandsaw. You may be able to see the 3mm web left because I couldn't get all the way to the bottom with the 2mm endmills. They're not pretty, but they're most hidden. I'm glad to see this now! Hi David, Those came out well. For things like that, I sometimes drill a hole in a position where I can't get a milling cutter. 2mm PCB routing cutters would have 10mm flute lengths but they are pretty fragile. If you were determined to machine that hook shape, you could pre-drill it 1.9mm and then use one of those for just that part though. You could then machine the profile with a larger diameter cutter. |
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