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Post by Deleted on Jan 2, 2019 13:51:34 GMT
I agree with Mike, you're doing a great job Nobby, keep it up...
Pete
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barlowworks
Statesman
Now finished my other projects, Britannia here I come
Posts: 878 
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Post by barlowworks on Jan 2, 2019 13:55:20 GMT
I should point out that this offer is open to anyone building a Britannia. If I can help I happily will do so.
Mike
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don9f
Statesman
Les Warnett 9F, Martin Evans “Jinty”, a part built “Austin 7” and now a part built Springbok B1.
Posts: 961
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Post by don9f on Jan 2, 2019 21:51:35 GMT
Just to keep you going, here is 70013 on New Year’s Eve, last day in service before it’s “ticket” expired....  Cheers Don |
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JonL
Elder Statesman
WWSME (Wiltshire)
Posts: 2,990
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Post by JonL on Jan 3, 2019 7:09:10 GMT
Just out of interest, why do they fit pipework ducting the draincocks forwards on locomotives?
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Lisa
Statesman
Posts: 806 
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Post by Lisa on Jan 3, 2019 7:39:17 GMT
I won't update every time I do a little thing, just the bigger lumps. Don't by shy with the pictures! We do rather like them around here. Just out of interest, why do they fit pipework ducting the draincocks forwards on locomotives? Down would spray ballast and muck up into the works, outwards would hit anyone on the platform/lineside, backwards or inwards would clean the oil/grease off the works, up would obstruct the drivers view, forward is the only clear path. |
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JonL
Elder Statesman
WWSME (Wiltshire)
Posts: 2,990
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Post by JonL on Jan 3, 2019 19:29:18 GMT
 So thats a pair of coupling rods with bearings, drilled lubricator ports and some of the mounting hardware. I made the nuts as I didn't have a good source for 5/32x40 nuts, just small mild steel hex with a tapped thread, all good practice. Next I need to make the flush fasteners for the leading driving wheels (is that the correct terminology?). The wheels move freely, but there is a point of slightly higher resistance. Not sure if its a big issue, its not like it jams solid, but there is a spot where the level of drag increases just a little. As its running ball bearings on the driving axles its more easily noticed I guess? Maybe I'll push it round our club track a few times whilst making the appropriate noises. Chime whistle for these I believe... |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 3, 2019 19:32:04 GMT
Well done Nobby, don't worry about a slight stiff spot, that will bed in...
Pete
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JonL
Elder Statesman
WWSME (Wiltshire)
Posts: 2,990
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Post by JonL on Jan 3, 2019 19:38:23 GMT
Phew! Thanks Pete.
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JonL
Elder Statesman
WWSME (Wiltshire)
Posts: 2,990
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Post by JonL on Jan 4, 2019 21:43:35 GMT
Thats rather annoying.... the previous owner left me a little surprise in one of the holes drilled one of the cylinder castings... gee thanks...  |
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Post by simplyloco on Jan 4, 2019 22:00:25 GMT
Thats rather annoying.... the previous owner left me a little surprise in one of the holes drilled one of the cylinder castings... gee thanks... There's a recent thread on here involving the use of Alum...  |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 4, 2019 22:06:43 GMT
I don't think Alum can be used in this instance John... think it would dissolve the iron along with the tap? assuming that it is a cast iron cylinder that I'm looking at?
Pete
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JonL
Elder Statesman
WWSME (Wiltshire)
Posts: 2,990
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Post by JonL on Jan 4, 2019 22:19:36 GMT
Yes it's Cast Iron. I think I might try heat and wiggling with some wire.... its too far in to get a grip on easily. We have locking wire at work, a scrap of that would probably be stiff enough.
All suggestions welcomed however!
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Post by simplyloco on Jan 4, 2019 22:31:39 GMT
Yes it's Cast Iron. I think I might try heat and wiggling with some wire.... its too far in to get a grip on easily. We have locking wire at work, a scrap of that would probably be stiff enough. All suggestions welcomed however! My mistake! In my youth one could buy a three wire gadget for extracting these little nasties! I wonder if they are still available? John |
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Post by GWR 101 on Jan 4, 2019 22:35:49 GMT
Have had limited success in the past by using 3 pieces of wire that fit down the flutes, if you can hold them the correct distance apart near the face then twist them with pliers. Hope you have some success, it's bad enough when it's self inflicted but getting some one else's breakages is a real trial. Regards Paul
Sorry posted whilst John was posting.
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Post by Roger on Jan 4, 2019 22:48:57 GMT
Thats rather annoying.... the previous owner left me a little surprise in one of the holes drilled one of the cylinder castings... gee thanks... You can drill that out if you don't mind sacrificing a few carbide PCB drills at about £1 a pop. Just line it up as close to the centre of the hole as possible and use the hand wheel and a medium spindle speed to very very slowly feed the drill in. It will turn the tap to dust if you give it time, but the odd bit might break and snap the drill. I'd choose a drill that's about 0.3mm under the tapping size. Make sure it's all clamped down, and don't try it on a pillar drill, you need an ultra slow handwheel to feed it in. This eBay supplier sells them in packs of 3 but I usually buy them in packs of 10 which is more economical. I don't know how far you are from me near Gatwick, but by all means drop in and I'll get that out for you without any drama. |
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don9f
Statesman
Les Warnett 9F, Martin Evans “Jinty”, a part built “Austin 7” and now a part built Springbok B1.
Posts: 961
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Post by don9f on Jan 4, 2019 22:52:31 GMT
Is the broken tap in a hole intended for securing the cylinder backplate? If so you could just drill & tap a new one alongside....
I know I would want to try and get it out but it may not come easily.
I remember breaking a 12ba tap whilst threading the holes for the cladding in one of my cast iron cylinders. A new hole alongside was not an option on that occasion and I drilled various further small holes around it until I got the broken remains out. The collection of ragged holes were then cleaned out by a much bigger drill, tapped and the hole plugged so that I could finally re-drill & tap 12ba. A right performance but it worked eventually!
Cheers Don
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Post by simplyloco on Jan 4, 2019 23:00:03 GMT
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Post by David on Jan 5, 2019 0:49:31 GMT
I drilled a broken tap out with a cobalt drill. The threads are a bit loose but still hold a bolt.
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stevep
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,073
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Post by stevep on Jan 5, 2019 9:01:05 GMT
I'm afraid that when faced with these situations, I have made up a hollow drill, with the centre hole a clearance on the tap. When the tap is well below the surface, a normal drill can be used initially, which creates a hole that guides the hollow drill.
Once the hole has been made and the broken tap removed, I then re-tapped the hole a larger size and loctited a piece of studding in place. When set, the correct size hole was re-drilled and tapped.
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Post by Jock McFarlane on Jan 5, 2019 9:10:15 GMT
Well done Nobby, don't worry about a slight stiff spot, that will bed in... Pete Rather than bed in you might find that one or more of the crankpins works loose to give that little extra play. (been there and done that). |
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