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Post by dave22fair on May 6, 2019 12:32:59 GMT
I wondered what experience people have had in painting the ML7. I have a grey model with poor quality paint finish and have tried brush application of the Myford enamel. I found the test piece disappointing and considered spray application. I have tried a sprayed Plasti-kote gloss grey and am much happier with the finish, but the shade is too light, showing dirt in a way the Myford grey didn't.
Perhaps I should try hunting a better shade of spray paint, or maybe thin the Myford paint and buy an air brush?
Any thoughts welcome. Thanks, Dave
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mbrown
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,724
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Post by mbrown on May 6, 2019 12:45:09 GMT
I don't know if this is relevant, but when I have used the official Myford grey enamel to paint my lathe stand and touch up chips on the lathe itself, I used a brush but found that the enamel needed a massive amount of stirring to get it to the right consistency. It may have been that my tin had been sitting in Myford's store room for ages, but although it appeared OK to start with, it didn't give very good coverage until I had spent about 15mins stirring with a spatula to get all the pigment up from the bottom and fully dispersed in the paint.
You may have done that already, of course....
Malcolm
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uuu
Elder Statesman
your message here...
Posts: 2,816
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Post by uuu on May 6, 2019 13:51:05 GMT
I remember people saying what a sensible colour my school uniform was, as it didn't show the dirt. So here's one vote for brown.
Wilf
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Post by Jo on May 6, 2019 14:30:03 GMT
There were many shades of Myford grey and unless you have the right colour undercoat it never looks right (and the other stuff will have faded ). If you are determined to do a good job then painting them Myford Green helps increase the price. Jo
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Post by dave22fair on May 6, 2019 14:47:59 GMT
Thanks for these replies. Is white spirit an okay solvent for the Myford enamel paint and at what dilution paint:solvent?
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barlowworks
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Now finished my other projects, Britannia here I come
Posts: 874
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Post by barlowworks on May 6, 2019 15:33:27 GMT
If you can find a battery powered coffee stirrer in somewhere like Poundland they make very good paint stirrers. Just cut off the wire brush affair on the bottom to leave an L shaped piece left and it works a charm. Remember to turn it off before putting in and removing from the tin (don't ask how I know this).
Mike
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Post by philh1aa on May 6, 2019 19:56:57 GMT
Dave,
You could consider this approach.
I had to treat a badly rusted Myford Super 7 cabinet and drip tray. After the usual wire brushes, abrasive wheels, rust treatment and red oxide primer, I took one of the belt guards to an automotive paint mixers and they filled some large spray cans with a matched cellulose, gloss paint. The match was pretty good and the finish was superb.
Phil H
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Post by 92220 on May 8, 2019 8:21:47 GMT
If you can find a battery powered coffee stirrer in somewhere like Poundland they make very good paint stirrers. Just cut off the wire brush affair on the bottom to leave an L shaped piece left and it works a charm. Remember to turn it off before putting in and removing from the tin (don't ask how I know this).
Mike
Mike is right. The only way to ensure a tin of paint is well stirred is with a power mixer. The propeller type of mixer (like a boat propeller) is the best type, if you can get one. Hand mixing you will need at least 20 minutes continuous stirring, maybe more if the tin has been standing a long time. A propeller type power mixer will do the job much better and much quicker. I have a propeller mixer that I used with the paint company, to mix 5 litre cans. It was made from the largest model boat racing propeller I could get hold of. It is 2" diam and 6" pitch. Smaller propellers will be better for the usual modelling paints. A 1" to 1.1/4" dia standard pitch prop is ideal for a 250mls tin and should be run at no more than 500 rpm to start with, to check that it isn't going to throw paint all over the workshop. Increase the speed until you get a controllable vortex that won't spin the paint over the rim of the tin but is mixing the paint well. Work the propeller around the bottom corner of the tin to mix in all the sediment. This is even more important when mixing dull or matt paints as the flatting agent settles out much quicker than the pigment particles. Bob.
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Post by simplyloco on May 8, 2019 9:02:04 GMT
When using Pheonix paint I made a delta shaped stirrer from 16g wire, the base of which fitted the bottom of the tin. I put it in my pillar drill and it worked a treat! John
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Post by houstonceng on May 8, 2019 14:02:56 GMT
Dave, You could consider this approach. I had to treat a badly rusted Myford Super 7 cabinet and drip tray. After the usual wire brushes, abrasive wheels, rust treatment and red oxide primer, I took one of the belt guards to an automotive paint mixers and they filled some large spray cans with a matched cellulose, gloss paint. The match was pretty good and the finish was superb. Phil H It’s a wonder that the cellulose didn’t react with the red oxide. Usually you need a primer sealer between non-cellulose and genuine cellulose paints, so perhaps it wasn’t cellulose at all.
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Post by goldstar31 on May 8, 2019 14:38:35 GMT
Again, I wonder what the solvent was for the red oxide primer.
Regards
Norman
And the often raised question about what Myford ( and other machine tool manufacturers) used to fill the rough castings prior to being prepared for finishing.
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Post by 92220 on May 8, 2019 16:14:24 GMT
Almost certainly a cellulose, or other quick drying, material and finished with machinery enamel which is generally resistant to coolant (suds) oil, which will slowly attack many other paints. This is the sort of wire mixer that John (simplyloco) is referring to. For larger tins than the 50mls tins, the wire can be anything up to 1/8" dia. As I said above, start mixing slowly to see how the mixer causes the paint to rise in the tin due to the volume of the vortex produced by the rotation. A mixer made with wire to the shape shown, produces 2 counter rotating vortexes and these are what do the mixing. The wire base also 'scrapes' up pigment from the bottom of the tin and mixes it in. Bob.
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Post by ettingtonliam on May 8, 2019 16:20:36 GMT
Norman For what its worth, the late John Stevenson, who worked for a time at Raglan when they were owned by Myford, said that Raglan (who had a reputation for high class paint finish) used products by a company called Trimite, still in existence I believe. There was one thick coat of Trimite filler, followed by a thin coat sprayed with cellulose thinner so it 'self levelled' and then a base coat of paint and 2 top coats. Everything was cellulose based. Apparently Trimite also supplied Myford.
I haven't used cellulose for many years, but I do recall in the 1960s using a cellulose based car body primer on some iron castings, followed by Humbrol green enamel, and that reacted badly and all had to be stripped off.
The red oxide primer I'm using at the moment recommends white spirit for cleaning up and brush washing, but I notice that the stuff contains zinc phosphate and naphtha.
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Post by chris vine on May 8, 2019 17:00:41 GMT
I know for a fact that Myford also used paint from Trimite! Chris.
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Post by 92220 on May 8, 2019 18:42:17 GMT
Trimite do make a very good machinery enamel. They are in Uxbridge.
Bob.
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Post by philh1aa on May 8, 2019 19:44:46 GMT
It’s a wonder that the cellulose didn’t react with the red oxide. Usually you need a primer sealer between non-cellulose and genuine cellulose paints, so perhaps it wasn’t cellulose at all. Regards Yes Andy it really is cellulose. You know, the usual strong pear drop smell. I should have added that the red oxide primer (from Halfords I think) specifically stated on the label that any paint could be used over the top. I should have also added that I covered the red oxide with the normal cellulose spray primer before putting the mixed 'Myford' colour paint over the top. I'd guess I painted it about 8 or 9 years ago and the drip tray has been drenched with all sorts of oil and grease and swarf etc. It still looks good with no bubbling or peeling. Phil H Read more: modeleng.proboards.com/thread/13055/repainting-myford-ml7?page=1&scrollTo=173643#ixzz5nMbu2RFF
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Post by 92220 on May 13, 2019 7:37:10 GMT
A good machinery enamel, once it has fully cured (about 4 weeks) should accept cellulose on top of it.
Bob.
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