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Post by jcsteam on May 14, 2019 18:26:14 GMT
Hello all,
I have been toying with the idea of making a 0-6-0 Minx, I have all the issues of ME with Curlys words and music. My question is are there any issues that anyone knows of before I commence building. I have begun to draw out the frames in fusion 360 to make sure I have captured all the holes in the frames as there is quite a few missing for motion pumps ect on the first drawing. I assume this is because of the variations of motion gear and boiler combinations. Is there other things that need to be considered in the build? Or is the write up and drawings pretty solid with few errors?
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Post by Deleted on May 14, 2019 18:54:07 GMT
Ah, I see you have arrived Jon. Welcome on board.
May I suggest putting your question in the General Chat section where I am sure you will find the answers.
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Post by suctionhose on May 15, 2019 1:37:00 GMT
Hello, I did complete a part built Minx many moons ago and thought the LBSC valve gear design was terrible!
The angle of swing on the links was extreme and required large eccentric throws. Horrible angles..
I did a new design, my first for Stephenson's, which was moderately successful. At least, the particular engine has been running well ever since (over 30 years).
To preempt possibly your next question, sorry no, I don't have a drawing of the redesigned VG available!
Hopefully, you can connect with other builders / owners near you and see a Minx in action. They make a nice model. I like the Westinghouse on the side - not so common in UK.
Ross
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,896
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Post by jma1009 on May 15, 2019 9:40:16 GMT
Hi Jon,
Not many Minx's about, even in the 1950s.
One of LBSC's best designs in the opinion of many, but stick to the Joy valvegear version, as Ross states the Stephensons valvegear version is awful, same as the inside cylindered Maid of Kent Stephenson's gear described at the same time.
The boiler will need updating with bushes for the fittings etc.
I would probably have built one had I been able to get the castings - they haven't been available to the best of my knowledge for over 40 years.
Based on the LBSCR C2X class with an excellent boiler, and the only really successful LBSCR 0-6-0 design.
Cheers,
Julian
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Post by goldstar31 on May 15, 2019 9:42:18 GMT
Greetings John!
One point is the cost of the boiler whether you are doing it from scratch or - err, um buying one made up and tested.
Meantime, my kind regards
Norman
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Post by jcsteam on May 15, 2019 9:43:35 GMT
Ah, I see you have arrived Jon. Welcome on board. May I suggest putting your question in the General Chat section where I am sure you will find the answers. Yes I'm here thank you for the invite.
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Post by jcsteam on May 15, 2019 9:45:54 GMT
Hello, I did complete a part built Minx many moons ago and thought the LBSC valve gear design was terrible! The angle of swing on the links was extreme and required large eccentric throws. Horrible angles.. I did a new design, my first for Stephenson's, which was moderately successful. At least, the particular engine has been running well ever since (over 30 years). To preempt possibly your next question, sorry no, I don't have a drawing of the redesigned VG available! Hopefully, you can connect with other builders / owners near you and see a Minx in action. They make a nice model. I like the Westinghouse on the side - not so common in UK. Ross I will be sticking with the joy valve gear, I haven't the know how to redesign the valve gear on a loco. I don't know any locally to me but there is a couple in the UK that I have seen through Google searches.
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Post by jcsteam on May 15, 2019 9:52:25 GMT
Hi Jon, Not many Minx's about, even in the 1950s. One of LBSC's best designs in the opinion of many, but stick to the Joy valvegear version, as Ross states the Stephensons valvegear version is awful, same as the inside cylindered Maid of Kent Stephenson's gear described at the same time. The boiler will need updating with bushes for the fittings etc. I would probably have built one had I been able to get the castings - they haven't been available to the best of my knowledge for over 40 years. Based on the LBSCR C2X class with an excellent boiler, and the only really successful LBSCR 0-6-0 design. Cheers, Julian If I'm honest it's the boiler that worries me, I have seen elsewhere that the boiler as with other designs in ME. That they are not upto current regulations, I am a member of CAME and I am talking with the boiler inspector already on the design of the boiler. To make sure it meets the regulations. As for castings I want to avoid the cost of casting where I can think of alternative ways to make the parts. The wheels will be plain discs from EN8, with a balance weight made separately and bolted on with countersunk screws, the cylinder and valve block will be cut from a single lump of cast iron. I plan to run this ruefully and from what I've read as long as after run maintenance is done to properly oil the cylinders they should last for a long time without corrosion.
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Post by jcsteam on May 15, 2019 9:57:42 GMT
Greetings John! One point is the cost of the boiler whether you are doing it from scratch or - err, um buying one made up and tested. Meantime, my kind regards Norman Norman, hope your keeping well my friend. The boiler is a big cost and I'm already pricing that up before beginning, even if I purchase bits of it to store away, until the time is right for build. I don't get have the propane torch even but that will come in time I hope. Ps. I've been reading and studying a lot of the material you sent me, and it's grown on that memory stick. Now upto over 4GB of info all on machining topics of interest. I won't get through it all.... Best regards Jon
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Post by goldstar31 on May 15, 2019 10:55:36 GMT
Greetings John! Ps. I've been reading and studying a lot of the material you sent me, and it's grown on that memory stick. Now upto over 4GB of info all on machining topics of interest. I won't get through it all.... Best regards Jon I'm glad that my 'memory stick' has proved useful. Looking back to the War Years stuff on Model Engineer, there is a lot of fabrication in the obvious problems of other things than models. There seems to be no real problem about 'tinning' steel cylinders. If my memory is holding out= Myford used lead indium on bearing shells on the Myford ML7. When I was 'skint' I tinned worn feed screws in a Pools Major lathe- which today's generation has no recollection. Healthwise? Apart from age related macular degeneration, deafness, COPD and a desperate series of leaks- not on my boiler, I'm sort of managing the difficulties of irreverent old age. I look forward to reading the wealth of advice you will get from a very informed forum Norman
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Post by jcsteam on May 16, 2019 12:05:27 GMT
I have been studying the boiler of Minx, and there seems to be a few things that need to change to bring it upto current regulations.
If the boiler is built from 5" tube and an outer Firebox wrapper, the 1/2" joint peice is not sufficient for the butt joint, from my understanding any butt joint in a boiler should have a 1" wide peice of copper the same thickness or greater than the two peices it joints. Can someone confirm my rambings?
Also as drawn there is only provision for one safety valve, and there should be two, incase one packs up while in steam. This is rather simple to change.
As mentioned above the fittings for the boiler should have bronze bushes soldered into the boiler instead of just plain tapped holes in the boiler.
Also the ashpan has a steel bracket screwed into the foundation ring, surely this can't be good for the strength of the boiler/foundation ring, and will also suffer fatigue over time. I think a square peice of steel fixed directly to the frames, to retain the back of the ashpan would be a better solution here.
Just a few observation of mine.......
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,896
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Post by jma1009 on May 16, 2019 19:49:16 GMT
Hi Jon,
Your above amendments are really only minor things in the overall build, and it is a very good free steaming boiler. I silver solder the longitudinal stays in place on the boiler, and I expect a few more firebox to backhead stays will be required, and a few more on the throatplate.
It is quite a straight forward boiler to make in 5"g, though I would also add a double flanged throatplate to avoid the problematic butt joint between top of the throatplate and rear bottom of the barrel.
I have always been a fan of the LBSCR C2X design, and one of them ended up nose down due to an embankment slip near Cocking on the Chichester - Midhurst line that ran past my school.
Cheers,
Julian
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Post by jcsteam on May 16, 2019 22:12:54 GMT
Hi Julian, I'll look at those there isn't a lot of room for more stays as they would interfere with the Firebox stays to the rear, but they could be placed inline vertically and still fit I think. I will bear those in mind. Since the drawings are speed over quite a few issues I'm currently reading over all of them and making notes of things I see which I don't think add up, then I can refer back in the future.
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Post by jcsteam on May 28, 2020 14:13:14 GMT
Hello,
Sorry for resurrecting this thread. Its been a long time since I was here last. Some information that may be useful to Julian with his above comments, and anyone else wanting to proceed with a Minx.
After a bit of searching around best castings, plus a bit of advice along the way, (as well as looking at what the cheapest options are).
I believe the below can be used on this Minx, as follows. 1. Wheels - LBSC Pansy, AJ Reeves or GLR Kennions sell the castings for these. Looking at drawings of pansy the wheel castings seem to measure the same with the same number of spokes. 2. Horns - I think that LBSC Netta (in cast iron from AJ Reeves, or Maid Of Kent in gunmetal if preferred). Though Gert from AJ Reeves also looks a good candidate for donating its horn castings.
I think the rest of any of the castings motion plate, pump ect. are identical to MOK. So should be easily obtainable. Though having read the words and music, a lot of this loco can quite easily be fabricated. With the two exceptions of the wheels and horn plates. Even these could be built up using bronze, or brazing steel sections together and machining them back to size. Though a lot of work when something suitable seems available.
Regards
Jon
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dscott
Elder Statesman
Posts: 2,437
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Post by dscott on May 29, 2020 0:25:45 GMT
ibb.co/nf0ZWxXLucky for us they must be one of the most popular wheel size in Model Engineering. Here I am fitting them to a very Early 4507 Small Prairie Tank. All my own work from Works drawings. 30 years of 2 marriages and a lovely Daughter and a JOB put paid to these Plans. However wheels from a Jinty also fit. There were a set that got supplied for things like a Speedy which were not beefy enough but better suited for a C2 or an E1 a lovely LBSCR locomotive. I now have 2 sets fully machined which await fitting to E1s when I ever get round to them. They came off a Jinty and a Speedy respectively. David and Lily.
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