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Post by Deleted on Aug 8, 2019 16:26:46 GMT
Hi guys No, it's not the Stirling, it's a close up of the Atlantic project new build as Julian spotted, I wasn't aware of this new build until finding this picture which has been around for some time it seems, great news I say... The shield I would assume is there to protect the driver as the fireman goes about his business, I doubt if the Stirling had one but could be wrong, I have seen photos of similar shields fitted to 4472 over the years and would guess it's normal practice. I say it protects the driver as it's on his (hinge) side. I have photo's of 1470 when built which shows a curved shield on the driver's side, there are also photo's of 4472 in preservation with shields both sides, small on the driver's side and larger on the fireman's side. Clearly, I'll need to do a little more research for my own model when I get to this stage. The doors must have had differences in overall size due to the massive difference in the boilers, although look similar in design, what these differences are I'm afraid I don't know. Pete
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Post by simplyloco on Aug 8, 2019 16:35:57 GMT
Firedoor Completed
It's the closest I can get to something like the prototype without the law of diminishing returns setting in. It will look much better when I've set the blacking kit on it! John DSC00158 by inkaboat, on Flickr DSC00159 by inkaboat, on Flickr DSC00163 by inkaboat, on Flickr
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mbrown
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,717
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Post by mbrown on Aug 8, 2019 18:53:38 GMT
A very neat interpretation of the latch!
Malcolm
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Post by simplyloco on Aug 8, 2019 21:58:08 GMT
A very neat interpretation of the latch! Malcolm Hi Malcolm, and my thanks for your welcome compliment. Getting lots of 'likes' is really nice, but a comment like yours means that I'm having a conversation, which is what this forum is all about! Pity I still get the odd unwelcome one though... John
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Post by coniston on Aug 8, 2019 22:18:08 GMT
Agreed, a nice job John and really looks the part as does the regulator handle. look forward to seeing this one on the track sometime soon.
Chris D
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Post by simplyloco on Aug 8, 2019 22:29:52 GMT
Agreed, a nice job John and really looks the part as does the regulator handle. look forward to seeing this one on the track sometime soon. Chris D Hi Chris. Any chance you could come along and supervise the making of the front end of the regulator sometime soon? Regards John
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Post by simplyloco on Aug 9, 2019 14:55:02 GMT
All Blacked Up! The blacking solution - am I still allowed to call it that? - was unused for over ten years, but it still worked! The rivet in the third tapped hole is a threaded one from Polly Models. Dead handy! I'll probably change the brass swivel pin for a steel one, but not today... Chris (Coniston) came round today to offer some advice on the regulator, which I accepted, gratefully! Many thanks Chris . John EDIT. Here I am fussing over the door, but I just found this lovely SS that was sold for quite good money, and then I looked at the fire door... www.steamworkshop.co.uk/portfolio/5-gnr-stirling-single/20190809_153149 by inkaboat, on Flickr
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timo
E-xcellent poster
Completing 3 1/2 Rainhill .Building 5" Railmotor and waiting to start 3 1/2" King
Posts: 234
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Post by timo on Aug 9, 2019 15:48:23 GMT
That looks excellent.
Tim
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Post by simplyloco on Aug 9, 2019 18:52:10 GMT
Thanks Tim. The original builder put a lot of time and effort into that door and I just had to do it justice! John
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Post by simplyloco on Aug 9, 2019 19:06:18 GMT
Reverser RepairThe builder made a great job of this reverser, but there was a 10BA tap broken off where the handle should go, probably a subsequent owner? Good job it was carbon steel as I was able to soften it and drill it out and tap 9BA. The handle is bronze, made in two ops in an ER collet, just like the regulator handles. One (plus a bit) degree taper on the compound slide for the full length, make the bottom dia the same as the rounded end, and part it off to finished length. Turn it round so the bottom bit is held in the front of the collet - they are too short to hold both ends properly, centre drill just a centre pop, drill 2mm deep with the tap drill, and pull the part out so the rounded end is gripped tightly in the collet, and the drilled part is supported by the drill tip. Drill 5mm deep and tap it. Loctite a 8mm long stud in it. Job done! John DSC00140 by inkaboat, on Flickr It's the little things that make all the difference! DSC00187 by inkaboat, on Flickr
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JonL
Elder Statesman
WWSME (Wiltshire)
Posts: 2,906
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Post by JonL on Aug 10, 2019 18:43:20 GMT
Exceptional engineering.
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Post by simplyloco on Aug 10, 2019 22:37:54 GMT
Smokebox RegulatorI found a lovely piece of aluminium bronze in the box, so I made the regulator casing this afternoon together with the valve. Here is the aluminium lap complete with wood screw fine adjustment. Heath Robinson rules OK! DSC00168 by inkaboat, on Flickr I just have to drill the holes for the studs: I'll use the cover plate I made for the boiler test as the jig. DSC00169 by inkaboat, on Flickr I'm not going to use superheaters, so there is plenty of room in the smokebox - for a change! What stands out is the quality of the exhaust pipe arrangement. DSC00170 by inkaboat, on Flickr
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Post by jon38r80 on Aug 11, 2019 9:02:22 GMT
You have aquired a very pretty, nicely made loco and you are really making elegant finishing touches. Its never that easy taking up where someone left off. Glad you are following this route. I Look forward to seeing the painting as that seems to be an almighty challenge on this loco. Watching with avid interest.
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Post by Cro on Aug 11, 2019 10:31:37 GMT
I would suggest you have another think on the superheater front. I know running Grandads that they do make a difference in the sense they are a steam drier. It can run wet for a short period but once on the go dries up nicely. Also tested the theory on our black 5 when we rebuilt it without superheaters and it was so different they went back in and it was so much better.
Damn tight in smoke box but worth it.
Adam
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Post by simplyloco on Aug 11, 2019 13:46:58 GMT
I would suggest you have another think on the superheater front. I know running Grandads that they do make a difference in the sense they are a steam drier. It can run wet for a short period but once on the go dries up nicely. Also tested the theory on our black 5 when we rebuilt it without superheaters and it was so different they went back in and it was so much better. Damn tight in smoke box but worth it. Adam Hi Adam. I take your point and I will almost definitely put a drying coil in the smokebox to see how it goes. John
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Post by Cro on Aug 11, 2019 15:45:31 GMT
John,
Not sure what effect if any that has, my personal feeling on small engines like these is that superheaters, preferably radiant, act as steam driers being in the firebox or around the hot gasses in the tubes.
Just my thoughts from experience on these things.
Adam
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Post by Roger on Aug 11, 2019 17:05:01 GMT
John, Not sure what effect if any that has, my personal feeling on small engines like these is that superheaters, preferably radiant, act as steam driers being in the firebox or around the hot gasses in the tubes. Just my thoughts from experience on these things. Adam Hi Adam, I think you have to ask yourself a key question about your statement about the superheaters being 'steam driers'. How do you know that the steam isn't completely dry by the time it's gone say half way down the superheater? If the steam is dry at any point before it reaches the end, the superheater will raise the temperature of the steam, thus acting as a true superheater. Unless you actually measure the dryness fraction or temperature and pressure of the steam at exit, there's no way to justify the claim that they are just driers. It may be that some designs only dry the steam a little, and others truly superheat it. Either way, their benefit is clear from the point of view of thermodynamics. If you take in water at 20C and then raise it to say 160C at 90PSI then throw it away without gaining any useful work from that energy input, then that's a thermodynamic disaster. At the very least, the steam needs to be 100% dry to overcome the worst excesses of this issue. Anything more than that in terms of raising the temperature further adds even more benefits, but I'd suggest that by far the greatest benefit comes from that initial drying of the wet steam.
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Post by simplyloco on Aug 11, 2019 18:55:46 GMT
More Regulator Work NeededI decided, after looking at the faded drawings, and the somewhat loose fit of the bronze piston, that the piston valve needed to be much bigger, and should be made of PTFE, and that is what I have done this afternoon. I bored the aluminium bronze body with my favourite carbide tool, and it didn't need any further finishing to take a PTFE valve. I had some left over PTFE rings from the Britannia, so I made a bronze carrier and used the alloy end bits from the Brit. It expands some six thou. in boiling water but the fit at this temp is just about perfect. My apprentice is here tomorrow so the PCD holes will have to wait... Champing at the bit! 20190811_184120 by inkaboat, on Flickr
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Post by coniston on Aug 11, 2019 19:20:46 GMT
That's coming on nicely John, great work as usual with the reverser handle and now the regulator assembly. Keep it up.
Chris D
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Post by simplyloco on Aug 11, 2019 22:06:29 GMT
SNIP I Look forward to seeing the painting as that seems to be an almighty challenge on this loco. Watching with avid interest. I'll be applying (literally) what I learnt from the Brit, and I am really looking forward to it! John
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