Final stages of “Jinty”

[don9f]

Hi Julian, thanks yes I now have the drawing of a working 5” gauge ejector of this type but at this time mine is only going to be a dummy. Our passenger cars and those of the other clubs the loco is likely to run at don’t have vacuum brakes....nice idea though.

You did recommend the valve gear suspension offset to me a while back, but the “bottom end” is all built up and I don’t want to dismantle it at this stage. It does run on air quite well.

Cheers Don

[David]

Nice work all round. The cladding is really good, it even looks like you have bent angle where it meets the spectacle plate.

[Midland]

Julian
I must get out my runs on the Jinty but IIRC there was not too much in it. How kuch did you find?
David

[don9f]

Oct 2, 2019 5:02:32 GMT David said:

Nice work all round. The cladding is really good, it even looks like you have bent angle where it meets the spectacle plate.

Hi David, yes it started out as a piece of 3/16” x 3/16” x .020” brass angle. As angle isn’t too easy to bend, I milled one of the angles down to about .150” to give it a better chance, then spent just about all day bending by hand, tweaking and correcting the inevitable distortion until it fitted over the firebox cladding (cleading).
Once I was happy with it, I attached it to the cab front with some 1.2mm screws and soft soldered it on. Photos of the cab etc. will follow in due course.

Cheers   Don

[Midland]

Oct 1, 2019 19:07:33 GMT don9f said:

Hi, had a good day today but inevitably didn’t get as far as I had hoped. Made the large ejector steam inlet fitting, plus the flanges (twice!) that connect the ejector body to the exhaust pipe.
The flanges were coordinate drilled on the milling machine, then sawn out and profiled on the linisher. Holes were tapped for 1.2mm studs on the flange that attaches to the body, clearance holes in the other.
The first pair went a bit wrong so had to start again!
Cheers for now   Don

Don
Not quite sure how to put this, very glad to see you had to make the flange twice, I have to do that often but of course sorry that you had to waste time and effort. It is just reassuring that you professionals share the same well trodden road that us novices stumble along. So I like the end result more than how you got there!!!
David

[don9f]

Continuing the theme of making things twice, I looked at the offset bend the next day and thought "no thats not going to work!". It was a decent bend but it was too long and would have meant that the remaining piece of exhaust pipe would have been too short, so another bit to remake! I used the same method as before but this time with more closer spaced cuts, giving a tighter radius to the two bends, plus I fitted the flange as close as I could to the start of the first bend. The result was much better (shorter):-



The front section of the exhaust pipe incorporates the 90 degree elbow that attaches to the side of the smokebox via another flange. plus a connection for a drip valve. The elbow was formed by cutting a vee shaped notch in the wall of the pipe (not quite all the way through) then forming and silver soldering the 90 degree bend. Protruding out the front of this bend is a socket to take the forward section of the smokebox handrail. A piece of brass strip 1/2" x 3/32" was rolled to match the radius of the smokebox, then cut out, shaped and drilled to form the flange at this end of the exhaust pipe. With a bit of careful positioning, measuring, adjusting etc. the exact location and angle of these parts was determined, before soft soldering together:-



Next came the downpipe that links the ejector to the loco's vacuum train pipe. This drops down vertically from the bottom of the ejector, then with an offset bend, connects to pipework underneath the running board. Each end of this downpipe has a ring nut to secure the flat face type joints. I turned the nuts and formed the six slots (these would be for a "C" spanner) using a fine parting tool mounted on its side and racking the carriage back & forth by hand.
As I'm sure many will know, the Myford Super 7 has a 60 tooth bullwheel and I just lay a steel rule lined up to one of the teeth and increment round 10 teeth for each slot:-









Next job is to make all the dummy cap nuts etc. and loctite them into place in the various holes in the ejector body.

Cheers for now

[don9f]

All the bits and pieces made and ready for fitting to the ejector body:-




And here it is mounted on the loco:-



Steam valve and pipes connecting to it next.....

Cheers   Don

[mbrown]

That's a lovely piece of work Don!

Malcolm

[Deleted]

excellent work Don...

Pete

[Midland]

Don
I found a photo from that angle and close up and yours is better!
D

[don9f]

For reasons I don’t know of, a lot of “elderly” LMS locos had the steam valve for the large ejector mounted in close proximity to it, being operated from the cab via a pull rod....in the case of Jinties, running along the top of the RH sidetank. The valve for the small ejector on the other hand, was mounted on the backhead in the cab. Live steam would be supplied to these valves via copper pipes inside the boiler, taking steam from the top of the dome, so maybe it was to ensure a more instant response from the large ejector if required?

This photo is of an earlier design of ejector, mounted on the 156 Class of Midland Loco ,on display at Butterley, but the steam valve is the same type as fitted to a Jinty:-



Using similar techniques to making the ejector recently, these are the parts for the dummy steam valve:-



And just about finished:-



This has definitely been a time consuming and fiddly thing to make but I’m happy that it looks the part. Next job is to come up with a method of securing it to the cladding sheet and make up the dummy steam pipe which will be a scale 1” dia.

Chhers   Don

[Midland]

Lovely work, will look a treat!
D

[don9f]

Hi, today I made up the pipe from the steam valve shown yesterday to the large ejector inlet fitting. It was once common practice on locomotives to use "flat face" joints on steam pipes and certainly in some applications or tight situations, it made assembly much easier. However, the tragic accident at Chapel en le Frith in 1957 was the direct result of the failure of just such a joint on the driver's brake valve of the locomotive involved. Subsequent to this, the familiar cone & union type joint became the preferred option. Anyone interested can read all about the accident and collision here

Anyway on this particular dummy pipe I have recreated the flat face arrangement by simply loctiting turned bits of brass into the ends of the pipe:-



I have drilled the hole in the cladding sheet and made a suitable mount for the steam valve (which will go on the inside) but cannot fit this until I do a bit of dismantling....for now the valve is just loosely fitted in place:-



Thats it for the moment ejector wise, I want to get on with finishing other details on the tank tops, in particular the "tank stays" (don't know if thats the right name) that attach the top of the tanks to brackets on the boiler/firebox, a common feature on tank locos. This simple arrangement allows for the boiler to expand etc. and I need to make all the bits so I can determine where to cut the holes in the cladding sheets for the brackets. These won't actually be fixed to the boiler/firebox, just the inside of the sheets.

I started to make the stays from some square steel bar, initially machining two pieces to 1/4" x 7/32" to make four stays:-





When to my surprise and without knowing they were on their way, the Postman delivered these:-



The Jinty now has an identity, I just might have to finish these instead!

Cheers for now   Don

[steamer5]

Hi Don,
The ejector looks just the bees knees! A very nice detail indeed.
Those plates look nice too! Hope you thanked Santa very much, & shouted her out for coffee!

Cheers Kerrin

[don9f]

I’m very impressed with the plates and they were ordered around 10 weeks ago, so a good service really. You have to drill the various bolt holes and the plates have a small raised “pip” left at each hole position and it’s obviously vital that you start the drill accurately and once again Thanks to Roger for introducing me to pcb drills, this was straightforward on the mill/drill. Some of the holes needed countersinking and my smallest bit was too big to do this, so I reground a small drill with a 90 degree angle to do this job. Careful use of the depth stop ensured I didn’t go too deep!

For the countersunk holes I drilled 1mm, as I intend to use some brass csk 14ba that I think look the part (I could only find one today!). The plain holes were drilled for 1.2mm hex headed steel screws that also look to scale etc.





Next was to cut away the excess and shape the individual plates.....a linishing machine made job this pretty easy. I fitted one of the Works Plates to its splasher with temporary screws to see how it looked:-



Cheers for now Don

[cadser]

That I all ver nice work. Even in OO I like the Jinty.

Bri

[mbrown]

It may be an illusion from the lighting in the picture, but does the smoke box number plate have a raised edge? As far as I know, BR numberplates didn't have any outside beading and the only raised bits were the numbers themselves.

Maybe a bit more work for the linisher...

Malcolm

[don9f]

Funnily enough earlier today, I had a look at the numberplate on 92167 which is also a Diane Carney plate but from the 1980’s, to check this point and that plate has no raised edge. Works plates, Shedplates etc. do have raised edges but I’m not sure about smokebox numberplates from 1948 onwards. It would be tricky to remove so I’ll probably leave it as it is.

Cheers Don

[don9f]

A bonus day in the Workshop because of the rain today, meant I could carry on with these bits for the smokebox door hinges that I started yesterday. The casting for the door “as supplied” is integral with its ring, so it doesn’t actually open....the whole thing just pulls out of the front of the smokebox. The hinges therefore don’t have to work, just look a bit realistic, but because of the shape of the door and all the curves & angles involved, they are still tricky things to make and fit properly!

The hinge “straps” were milled out of a piece of 1/4” x 1/2” bms and after a few hours (literally) of bending, adjusting, tweaking, trying again etc. I got these to fit to my satisfaction:-



Both the other parts of each hinge were milled from a short piece of 3/16” x 3/8” and drilled to line up with their mating parts before separating:-



And here’s where I’ve got to after 2 days!



Holes are all ready for the numberplate, the shedplate and the handrail stanchions, but still to sort out are the 6 “dogs” and their studs, that secure the door closed (no dart on these locos) and the top lamp-iron.

Cheers for now Don

[delaplume]

Hi Don,

Will those be actual working dogs ??----------------

This might be of use ?----> Some 30 years ago I was running a Martin Evans 5" gauge Parallel boiler Scot which initially had fully working dog clips.......I soon gave up on those as being impractical for regular prep and disposal duties and converted them to dummy, fixed ones ( for appearances sake ) and reverted to the usual cross bar and dart, the difference being that one end of the securing shaft had a countersunk head / slotted groove for a screwdriver drive whilst the other end had a plain thread on it ..........The countersunk head was flush with the outside face and hidden by a detachable loco number plate, the thread on the shaft engaged with a threaded hole on the modified cross bar..........

Alan