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Post by andyhigham on Feb 6, 2020 14:05:44 GMT
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Post by 92220 on Feb 6, 2020 17:34:07 GMT
Hi Andy.
One word of warning if I may. Don't use a liquid paint stripper for any riveted assemblies that are not going to be fully separated before stripping. Any liquid paint stripper will get into riveted joints by capillary action and will be impossible to fully remove afterwards. This will cause major problems when repainting as anything in the joints will come out again by capillary action and ruin the new paintwork. The only safe way of stripping pint from a riveted assembly is to sand or bead blast. The same problem arises when degreasing with solvents, though they can be driven off by heating the parts to just below 100 C for about an hour....the longer time the better.
Bob.
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Post by coniston on Feb 6, 2020 22:16:04 GMT
Hi Andy. One word of warning if I may. Don't use a liquid paint stripper for any riveted assemblies that are not going to be fully separated before stripping. Any liquid paint stripper will get into riveted joints by capillary action and will be impossible to fully remove afterwards. This will cause major problems when repainting as anything in the joints will come out again by capillary action and ruin the new paintwork. The only safe way of stripping pint from a riveted assembly is to sand or bead blast. The same problem arises when degreasing with solvents, though they can be driven off by heating the parts to just below 100 C for about an hour....the longer time the better. Bob. Alternative to sanding or bead blasting is to use a hot air paint stripping gun. I have been using one today to strip the paint off my passenger trolley which has rivetted joints and bolted joints, seemed to work ok for me. Used a stiff wire brush over the rivets and all the paint was gone. Just a thought. Chris D
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Post by 92220 on Feb 7, 2020 8:35:27 GMT
Hi Chris.
Good point. Yes that's a good way to get paint off if there is any wood about. The main reasons for blasting are that it is a dry process, so no capillary action, and also the surface is left ideal for painting. If any alternative stripping process that doesn't involve the risk of capillary action, such as the hot air gun, works then that is good, as not everybody has access to grit/bead blasting.
Bob.
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Post by andyhigham on Feb 7, 2020 8:52:00 GMT
I have a bead blasting cabinet but the frames are too long to fit in
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Post by Deleted on Feb 7, 2020 9:56:58 GMT
Hi Andy. One word of warning if I may. Don't use a liquid paint stripper for any riveted assemblies that are not going to be fully separated before stripping. Any liquid paint stripper will get into riveted joints by capillary action and will be impossible to fully remove afterwards. This will cause major problems when repainting as anything in the joints will come out again by capillary action and ruin the new paintwork. The only safe way of stripping pint from a riveted assembly is to sand or bead blast. The same problem arises when degreasing with solvents, though they can be driven off by heating the parts to just below 100 C for about an hour....the longer time the better. Bob. Alternative to sanding or bead blasting is to use a hot air paint stripping gun. I have been using one today to strip the paint off my passenger trolley which has rivetted joints and bolted joints, seemed to work ok for me. Used a stiff wire brush over the rivets and all the paint was gone. Just a thought. Chris D Now that's a good idea, I hadn't thought of that... I'll need to strip my running boards down in due course, I guess that extra care needs to be taken to avoid warping the metal.... I'll take a look at this suggestion though. Like andy, my running boards are far too long to fit into my son's bead blasting cabinet. cheers Pete
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Post by andyhigham on Feb 16, 2020 21:15:36 GMT
Hi Andy. One word of warning if I may. Don't use a liquid paint stripper for any riveted assemblies that are not going to be fully separated before stripping. Any liquid paint stripper will get into riveted joints by capillary action and will be impossible to fully remove afterwards. This will cause major problems when repainting as anything in the joints will come out again by capillary action and ruin the new paintwork. The only safe way of stripping pint from a riveted assembly is to sand or bead blast. The same problem arises when degreasing with solvents, though they can be driven off by heating the parts to just below 100 C for about an hour....the longer time the better. Bob. I had the frames blasted this week, oil is creeping out from under the horn blocks. I guess a good dosing of brake cleaner is in order
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Post by 92220 on Feb 19, 2020 9:28:13 GMT
Hi Andy. I don't know what is in the brake cleaner so I can't recommended it. The best solvent is cellulose thinners, which evaporates very quickly, and neutralizses any oil. Don't forget, though, to get the thinners out from the rivetted joints, you must heat the frames up in an oven, though definitely NOT a gas oven!!!! Set the oven to lowest heat to make sure the element doesn't go incandescent. The method doesn't really matter but you need to get it hot enough to only just be able to hold your hand on it continuously, and keep it at this heat for about an hour. If at a lower temperature, then leave longer.
Bob.
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Post by andyhigham on Mar 28, 2020 10:38:18 GMT
I had a look at the boiler last night, there are angles bolted to the side if the firebox that sit on top of the frames. I cannot see any way of stopping the boiler lifting other than gravity
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stevep
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,070
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Post by stevep on Mar 28, 2020 11:00:17 GMT
Andy, there should be angles bolted to the frames that come over the top of the angles attached to the boiler.
This allows the boiler to expand as it warms up, but keeps it held down (obviously, not too tight).
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Post by andyhigham on Mar 28, 2020 11:26:34 GMT
There is nothing shown on the drawing. The RHS is tight up against the reverser stand which is bolted to the outside of the frames. I could rivet a strip to the back of the stand and drill the other frame for an angle 20200328_111738 by Sigma Projects, on Flickr
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Post by cplmickey on Mar 28, 2020 12:32:26 GMT
This is quite common and something I warned about when forum members were making rotating stands for engines. Most of my engines don't have any holding down brackets on the drawings but as stevep says this is a good idea. Ian
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Post by andyhigham on Mar 28, 2020 19:32:41 GMT
I noticed there are a couple of pin holes in the smokebox due to corrosion on the inside. I really don't want to re make too much so I will try to fill the pits from the inside with braze
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Post by andyhigham on Mar 29, 2020 14:04:50 GMT
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Post by andyhigham on Mar 29, 2020 14:29:39 GMT
I will not try to hide the patch, I really want this loco to look like it spends every day working hard
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dscott
Elder Statesman
Posts: 2,437
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Post by dscott on Mar 30, 2020 0:52:49 GMT
I have deliberately put some plates inside at the bottom of mine as I saw a pattern of rivets on a full size version.
Yes working hard. At a Sweet Pea Rally most were highly polished EXCEPT for one which I think lived outside to get a superb Pattena of being a true Quarry Locomotive. I think he had roughly wrapped old socks dipped in oil round the steam pipes.
Dreaming of summer steam ups!!
David and Lily.
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Post by andyhigham on Apr 1, 2020 18:50:18 GMT
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Post by andyhigham on Apr 6, 2020 19:26:48 GMT
One of the de-rail bars had a slight bend. As my folding brake was on my press and its bloody heavy to lift off, I rested the angle on the back of the vice and hit it with a mallet. Because it was resting on one of the legs of the angle, when I hit it it canted over onto my finger. I think the words I used are not in any dictionary. 20200406_201832 by Sigma Projects, on Flickr
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Post by coniston on Apr 6, 2020 22:26:28 GMT
Probably a bit or 'Railway Esperanto' as LBSC would have written? glad it wasn't any worse.
Chris D
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Post by andyhigham on Apr 8, 2020 10:10:33 GMT
A bit of research has uncovered an anomaly in the Don Young Hunslet design. Early "Alice class" locos had the handbrake column outside the reversing lever and the frames had a shallower taper at the rear with a tapered slot in the frames. Later "Alice class" locos had the handbrake between the boiler and the reversing lever supported at the top by a cast iron bracket fitted to the boiler. The frames have a steeper taper at the rear and a parallel sided slot. The D.Y. design has the early hand brake and the later frames. This is not really a big deal as the full size locos had components exchanged between them during their lifetime in the quarry, so much so that "King Of The Scarletts" and "Maid Marian" completely swapped identities
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