jem
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,064
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Post by jem on May 19, 2021 16:34:57 GMT
Why not an old pc power supply, it could be mounted under the unit so you only need a mains wire out of it. Cheap and easy.
best wishes
Jem
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Post by terrier060 on May 19, 2021 23:56:22 GMT
Hi John You have made a nice job of the governor, which has a lot of fiddly parts, hence the reason I have found excuses not to make it. I will have to give it a go. Maybe try and machine the parts on the Tormach! I am very impressed that you made two stirrups. One is hard enough! In fact it must be the most complicated bit.
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Post by simplyloco on May 20, 2021 8:14:16 GMT
Hi John You have made a nice job of the governor, which has a lot of fiddly parts, hence the reason I have found excuses not to make it. I will have to give it a go. Maybe try and machine the parts on the Tormach! I am very impressed that you made two stirrups. One is hard enough! In fact it must be the most complicated bit. Hi Ed. Your assertion that it was difficult is quite wrong: it's a complete fabrication! John
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Post by simplyloco on May 30, 2021 17:53:37 GMT
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Post by simplyloco on Nov 18, 2021 15:56:53 GMT
We've just returned from Spain, sorted ourselves out, and I was able to get back into my workshop today. I made a start on the radius rods: a small start only, but it's a start... Well, it's a start, innit?
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Post by simplyloco on Nov 19, 2021 20:18:43 GMT
Stuart Major Beam Radius Rods
The idea is to get the bearing housings exactly in line with each other and at the correct distance apart. I choose to fabricate bits like these rather than hack huge lumps of metal to shape! Today I've made the rings, faced off where the rod connects to provide a sound joint, and drilled a hole to take a joining pin. Tomorrow I'll make the rod bodies. Simples!
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Post by simplyloco on Nov 22, 2021 16:05:31 GMT
More on Radius Rods
Turned and shaped a radius rod today, and silver soldered it to the bearing rings. The centre distance was near enough, and it was straight and correctly aligned. However, it turned out that the solder paste flux was not strong enough for the free cutting stainless I'm using, and the joints were very weak, and subsequently failed. Anyway, here's the work sequence for your edification... The bar is 7/32" diameter, and the length defined with a parting tool using the DRO to measure 2.894" from the end. I set the compound slide at 1.25 degrees and used a round nosed carbide profile tip. I parted it off, turned it round and did the other end. Finish with a smooth 6" file and varying emery cloth down to 400 grit. It fits exactly! Soldered up with dowel pins inserted and silver solder paste. I had to use a 20mm torch head to counteract the heat transfer! t should have been 4.125", but so long as the other one is the same there shouldn't be a problem! Cleaning up in the lathe. One end is pushed against the biggest collet I have, and the other is in the home made cup centre. It was perfectly safe! Still the right size, and looking the part, but I'll have resolder using some stronger flux. Hey ho, thats model engineering for you!
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Post by simplyloco on Nov 28, 2021 16:23:35 GMT
Piston Rod CrossheadIt's too cold to spend much time in the workshop, and the radius rods need time spent on them, but a quick clean job was this crosshead. Stainless steel, made from some 5/8" round bar, turned both ends and machined square in the mill. The end caps will be fitted later. There's a tapered hole in it to take the piston rod, which has a matching taper on its end. I didn't have a big enough taper pin reamer, but that's what friends are for...thanks Coniston! I have to make a fixing pin, but that can wait!
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Post by simplyloco on Nov 30, 2021 18:16:07 GMT
Those lucky souls who are building one of these may remember that I made a governor actuator, and promptly lost it, and had to make another. Well, it turned up today, having fallen into a little used drawer which must have been open at the time! I'm open to offers, and I'm particularly fond of Tanqueray Gin...
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Post by steamer5 on Dec 1, 2021 7:13:51 GMT
Hi John, Turn it into a key ring……..ok I’ll stand in the corner
Cheers Kerrin
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Post by Jim on Dec 1, 2021 10:51:23 GMT
...or a bottle opener, ok I'll stand in the other corner.
Jim
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Post by simplyloco on Dec 6, 2021 20:29:27 GMT
I've Just Discovered Rippers!I suppose I should put this in the tooling section, but it is pertinent here. I thought that I knew enough about precision engineering to keep me going until the end... but today i found a little 10mm end mill in a drawer, bought as part of a job lot, and it had these odd serrations on the flutes. I had never seen one before. I slapped it it in the ER20 chuck and started to trim the end of the parallel motion links. Much to my surprise the thing cut steel noiselessly at 400 odd rpm, with no vibration at all, and left a pretty damn good finish, far better than the 4 flute one that I used to rough out the inners. I will use it again! Never let it be said that an old dog can't learn new tricks...
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Post by fubar123 on Dec 6, 2021 20:58:58 GMT
I love them too ! You can really remove a lot of metal quickly
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Post by ettingtonliam on Dec 6, 2021 21:02:08 GMT
Yes, its called a roughing end mill. Its supposed to allow the removal of larger quantities of metal with low vibration, but at the expense of a poorer finish. Curious that you should find that it actually leaves a good finish. Win-win!
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samc88
Active Member
Posts: 42
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Post by samc88 on Dec 6, 2021 21:56:42 GMT
Thats a really nice finish for a roughing mill
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Post by simplyloco on Dec 7, 2021 18:27:38 GMT
I warmed up the workshop today and made a start on the drop links. A lot of beam engines don't get finished because these links and associated bits can be a bit tricky! I started with some 3/4" x 1/4" flat MS, and went from there. Make yourself some filing buttons: 11/16"OD with a 7/16" boss. File and polish. Tryout. Hurrah! It looks the part! Now we are getting somewhere!
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Post by Roger on Dec 7, 2021 18:45:29 GMT
I've Just Discovered Rippers!I suppose I should put this in the tooling section, but it is pertinent here. I thought that I knew enough about precision engineering to keep me going until the end... but today i found a little 10mm end mill in a drawer, bought as part of a job lot, and it had these odd serrations on the flutes. I had never seen one before. I slapped it it in the ER20 chuck and started to trim the end of the parallel motion links. Much to my surprise the thing cut steel noiselessly at 400 odd rpm, with no vibration at all, and left a pretty damn good finish, far better than the 4 flute one that I used to rough out the inners. I will use it again! Never let it be said that an old dog can't learn new tricks... They're brilliant, and I'd use them a lot more if the prices were more competetive. Occasionally they are on offer and I buy a batch, but generally they are just too expensive.
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Post by jon38r80 on Dec 8, 2021 18:44:58 GMT
Having seen them used by Roger on his build thread I bought some solid carbide ones from China (Aliexpress). as mention aboive , they really can remove a lot of material very quickly and the slightly ribbed finish was judst the right thing for the tool holders I batch made, just like the originals I had bought. I didnt think they were that expensive coinsidering how good they are at rapid material removal and how long they last
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Post by simplyloco on Dec 9, 2021 19:58:11 GMT
Drop Link Slots
It was a dull wet day so after shopping to fill up the deep freeze in anticipation of yet another lockdown I had a go at the slots for the gibs and cotters. I was going to cheat and make deep slots with an added filler piece, but as I had a new 5/64" slot drill I reverted to the traditional method! I have a very posh DRO but two bed stops are a far better proposition when making fine cuts with delicate slot drills. This is because I don't have to look at a remote display whilst moving the work back and forth: I can concentrate on feeling the work. This is what you land up with if you are careful. I made a slight mistake on one slot which will be filled with soft solder later... Every slot has to be in exactly the same position on all four links, so I made an end stop for my new vice. I removed the fixed jaw and tapped it M6. The rest should be obvious from the pictures! The link is sitting on a parallel and is pressed up to the stop while tightening the vice. Soft hammers are not necessary! I drilled all of them 1.8mm at each end of the slot to give the slot drill a start. Chain drilling was not necessary. You can see the bed stops in action. I then swopped the slot drill for the drill and took 0.7mm cuts until I reached the bottom, turned the link over and did the other side. Gib keys next!
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Post by ettingtonliam on Dec 10, 2021 9:34:13 GMT
Any clever ideas about squaring off the ends of the slots?
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