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Post by Jim on Feb 24, 2021 21:30:25 GMT
I'd second that Paul. I really admire the craftsmanship that John demonstrates in building this model with every day hand tools used with great skill and artistry.
Jim
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Post by simplyloco on Feb 25, 2021 17:37:04 GMT
Not a good day today as my much lauded skill and artistry caused me to bash the part I just made down onto the parallels, forgetting that it was unsupported in the middle. It now looks like a banana, so I bent it back as best I could and I'm using it as a practice piece for the real deal! I cut it in half and attempted the 5/64" slot. The broken carbide end mill is on the left and I'll slot the bugger and fill it in afterwards... I'm getting the idea!
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timb
Statesman
Posts: 511
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Post by timb on Feb 25, 2021 19:18:48 GMT
I have more days like that than any other John!
Incidentally I have the same milling vice as you!
Tim
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Post by simplyloco on Feb 25, 2021 20:07:26 GMT
I have more days like that than any other John! Incidentally I have the same milling vice as you! Tim Yes, solid and accurate enough for my needs!
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Post by simplyloco on Mar 1, 2021 21:08:27 GMT
Not a lot done lately as I had to strip down the saddle to fix a a certain stiffness as I moved over the length of the bed...! It turned out that when I took the saddle off last time to clean the apron gearbox, I put one of the 8mm cap screws in the wrong place - they differ slightly in length - and although it took a while to manifest itself, the bed just got stiffer and stiffer until the auto feed clutch was slipping! I checked the spares manual and swapped two screws and it is now fixed. Con Rod Clean UpI'm waiting on a 5/64" slitting saw, so a little diversion was called for. I wish I'd taken a 'before' picture because this con rod woofed at me every time I looked at it, so I had to do something about it! About 40 minutes in the lathe going from files through 120 grit going on 1200. There's a slip gauge at the stirrup end to prevent cracking under load. I did this because I know of a guy who didn't do such a thing, and he had to buy a new casting... Just another tryout. The top straps are just practice pieces. It's gonna look lovely when it's finished in black! John
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Post by simplyloco on Mar 3, 2021 18:16:13 GMT
More on the Conrod Straps
This strap is an example of the standard of workmanship that came with the beast. Small wonder I'm starting again with a lot of bits! Here's one of the replacement straps in the vice being clocked up for slitting 1/2" deep x 5/64" wide. I'll solder in a filler later. I couldn't think of any other way to hold it! Two passes at 200 rpm. I made some gash keys just to check the alignment: well chuffed with this! I just have to use my buttons on the top and clean/polish it up and I can move on to the bottom strap. Oh, and make two gib and cotter joints: something I haven't done since 1970...
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JonL
Elder Statesman
WWSME (Wiltshire)
Posts: 2,902
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Post by JonL on Mar 3, 2021 18:48:40 GMT
googling gib and cotter now...
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Post by simplyloco on Mar 5, 2021 17:59:36 GMT
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Post by simplyloco on Mar 7, 2021 16:55:45 GMT
CONROD STRAPS COMPLETED I made the big filing button today and shaped the bottom strap, soldered in the strap inserts and fettled the three straps to the right shape and appearance. I then made a sizing key and spent a few hours with needle files getting the tiny slots right! Here's a few pics. I'll make the gib and cotter keys tomorrow: them's tricky...
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Post by simplyloco on Mar 7, 2021 20:43:39 GMT
I've been on the wagon for a week, so I found time after dinner to make one gib and cotter. The last one I made was 6" long by 1/2" thick... Neat eh?
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Post by simplyloco on Mar 8, 2021 8:13:15 GMT
Alan (Delaplume) once kindly referred to my Stirling Single as a benchmark. Here's my Beam Engine benchmark, an absolutely superb example, built by Leif Jonson of Sweden in 2017. I would like to meet, or even exceed, this particular benchmark! John www.youtube.com/watch?v=7hT8ujN2G3o
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Post by simplyloco on Mar 8, 2021 20:13:30 GMT
Not a lot done today, as I installed a twin LED Batten above the lathe. It is so bright that I had to fit a sun shade! A little row of gibs and cotters. Assembled. Now the even trickier bit: the split bearings... New lamp. Too bright!
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JonL
Elder Statesman
WWSME (Wiltshire)
Posts: 2,902
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Post by JonL on Mar 9, 2021 14:40:37 GMT
I think thats the same as the ones I've got from screwfix. They seem very good so far
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Post by simplyloco on Mar 9, 2021 21:57:55 GMT
Conrod Split Bearings
Not an easy job this, even for old stagers like me. The idea is that you can't see the join, as in a good wig! A few pics here of the square bearing only, the sequence for the round bearing is turn, ream, slit in half and fit! I was lucky to find a rectangular piece of brass the correct size. Find the edge and centre, drill and ream . 10mm slot drill straight down the middle, expand the slot to size. Slit to half way -carefully! It fits quite nicely and the join is barely visible. Trouble is, I didn't notice the tiny hole in the blank so I'll have to fill it somehow, perhaps a piece of brass rod soldered in. I'll do the top bearing tomorrow as I've had enough: once a King, always a King, but once a Knight is enough!
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Post by simplyloco on Mar 10, 2021 20:09:53 GMT
Con Rod Top BearingThis job is a real PITA...However, I got on with it this affy and produced one of the top bearings. It meets my standard so that's OK, and I'll make the other one tomorrow. I stepped off my wagon today after ten days drinking Diet Coke... Left over from yesterday, machining the semicircular bearing to half thickness. I'm now a great fan of Roger's 'part on a stick' concept, and this is no exception, facilitating the holding via a vee block. I parted it off in the lathe with my new Glanze 2mm parting blade. A piece of cake and a great investment I must say! All the nice bits! I'm quite happy with this: I just have to tap the wedge home to close the gaps! The shaft is a rough dummy waiting for the real one.. Onwards and Upwards!
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Post by simplyloco on Mar 12, 2021 20:42:33 GMT
It is Time to Do the Parallel Motion!This is the bit that daunts a lot of people, and some fail completely and move the thing on! Judging from the state of the bits that's probably how I got the thing... Now I've practiced on the conrod it shouldn't hold out too many problems - I hope! Here's the drawing. The square bearings are ideally done by soldering two halves together on a stick, drilling and reaming, and parting off to 5/16" length to fit the shoulders on the shafts. First off I made three new shafts - including the conrod - to go on the beam. The originals rattled about like squirrels in a cage so were discarded! Machine to size, and soft soldered together, and centre popped to enable the use of the wobbler. Clocked up to within a thou or so. Parted off with my new whizzbang parting blade, heated and split cleanly. A very nice push fit on the shafts. These will go on the bottom ones. I'll do the half round bearings tomorrow.
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Post by simplyloco on Mar 14, 2021 17:24:22 GMT
I need a Break!
I've had enough of the fiddly bits and I need to get creative. It's time to make the pedestal! I rather like the approach this builder has taken: no dummies with their shovels and spanners cluttering up the place! www.youtube.com/watch?v=uOTB5CSpspwMy workshop is now the wood shop, and today I made the four sides for the pedestal. These will be clad with 1/12 fake brick wallpaper. I looked at using real bricks and I would need 2300 of the buggers... Of course, getting the height correct is critical: the outboard support must be at the exact height otherwise the big flywheel will wobble -as can be seen on Youtube - so I made the pedestal a little high so that I could use shims to correct matters. As it happens a 1/8" packing piece makes every thing level, so I will probably machine the pedestal sides down to suit. When bolted down things will be different of course! The flywheel bore is exactly 0.750". I suspect it was made in a trade workshop. However, it looks like I'm going to need a new crankshaft... Time to order some perforated steel and some stanchions.
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Post by jon38r80 on Mar 15, 2021 16:15:17 GMT
You could buy som FIMO in terracotta colour, roll it out thin and scribe your brickwork coursing on it, let it harden and use it instead of wall paper. Made several hundred roof tiles for a Dolls house but they were individual tiles to get an uneven coursing. its not difficult if you roll it out on greaseproof paper. Wall paper always looks just like wall paper as it has no texture or depth.
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Post by simplyloco on Mar 15, 2021 17:33:24 GMT
You could buy som FIMO in terracotta colour, roll it out thin and scribe your brickwork coursing on it, let it harden and use it instead of wall paper. Made several hundred roof tiles for a Dolls house but they were individual tiles to get an uneven coursing. its not difficult if you roll it out on greaseproof paper. Wall paper always looks just like wall paper as it has no texture or depth. Agreed. I have a sample piece of vinyl which is not bad at all, but I'm not sure about it. H'aiporth of Tar and all that!
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Post by jon38r80 on Mar 15, 2021 18:04:24 GMT
As much as any other shortcoming, I think the scale of the Bricks/Bits of stone is all wrong but as always, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
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