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Post by GWR 101 on Dec 6, 2021 12:52:34 GMT
Whilst the weather is so cold I took the opportunity to paint some of the areas on the frames that had got chipped, was able to undertake this with an artists brush and a small tin of enamel paint (on the kitchen table in the warm). Also ordered all the parts for the valve gear from MEL, yes I know this may be frowned upon but time is precious and its my Christmas present to self.  Regards Paul
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smallbrother
Elder Statesman
 
Errors aplenty, progress slow, but progress nonetheless!
Posts: 2,118
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Post by smallbrother on Dec 6, 2021 13:22:14 GMT
What is to be gained by avoiding a handy shortcut like that? Go for it!
Pete.
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Midland
Elder Statesman
 
Posts: 1,782
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Post by Midland on Dec 6, 2021 16:54:45 GMT
Paul No shame in using the facilities, we live in a modern world. When I started it seemed we had to carve everything out of solid blocks to be pure, I am decicated to impure!! Is your Jubilee the 2-6-4T as I have recently got? Cheers David
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Post by GWR 101 on Dec 6, 2021 18:24:10 GMT
David, thanks yes it is the Martin Evans one in 3 1/2" gauge. My late father started it in the 70's and I inherited the frames. I decided to finish it during the lock-down, and although I have suitable kit and been at this game for some time I decided to use this route were possible. This is the first loco I have built with Walschaerts valve gear so I was pondering over how to make the expansion links, lathe or miller and rotary table. When I spoke to MEL they said that they could provide all the components (some out of gauge plate) so that I could fabricate them. So basically a no brainer, we will see how it goes but I am not expecting any major problems, that's got to be a recipe for trouble. Regards Paul
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Post by simplyloco on Dec 6, 2021 19:11:40 GMT
Paul No shame in using the facilities, we live in a modern world. When I started it seemed we had to carve everything out of solid blocks to be pure, I am decicated to impure!! Is your Jubilee the 2-6-4T as I have recently got? Cheers David Decicated eh? It's that Cranberry Juice drying you out!
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Midland
Elder Statesman
 
Posts: 1,782
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Post by Midland on Dec 6, 2021 19:28:57 GMT
Oh Master, I have no idea what I was talking about, must be that I am dazzled by your masterness even if you do not like my coffee!!!!!! Your umble servant.
Paul, I have the cab and side tanks off my little Jubilee, can take pics if it would help. Also I have the full ME write up as well. Let me know. Hoping for a hydraulic and steam this Friday unless we are snowed in. Cheers David
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Post by GWR 101 on Dec 7, 2021 12:50:18 GMT
David, many thanks for your kind offer I also have the ME write up it came as part of the casting package I purchased off the web. I have the drawings originally purchased by my father which needless to say have developed an antique parchment appearance and have had to be repaired on the folds. I am considering using MEL for the sides and spectacle plate but resisting looking at this just yet as I do not want to get side tracked from the current tasks. Just returned from a traditional Ironmongers which is local to me, 5/16" silver steel and 2mm. dia. csk. socket screws purchased really quite nostalgic (was tempted to ask for fork handles)
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Post by GWR 101 on Dec 11, 2021 19:52:17 GMT
Whilst working on the paint chips I noticed a row of holes in the frames immediately behind the rear axle, as previously stated I didn't drill the frames. After a bit of investigation it appears these are for the steam brake stretcher, and luckily there is a casting for this amongst the job lot I purchased. It would appear that this is also a key part in stiffing the frames near the fire box so tomorrow I will machine this and fit it.
I understand that brakes on a loco of this size are more for show that actually stopping the train, I have not made a steam brake before so might see what I have to construct one. Regards Paul
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Post by GWR 101 on Dec 13, 2021 16:25:21 GMT
Whilst machining the brake cylinder stretcher I noticed that I still needed the Pony truck bearing stretcher. I found some PB bar and with a bit of MS bar I made this sandwich, just need to drill the holes. Also ordered the grate and top feed casting, "another" Christmas present, I only hope Santa' sleigh has some hefty springs.  Regards Paul 
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Post by GWR 101 on Dec 14, 2021 19:16:52 GMT
All the frame stretchers are fitted now so back to jig making for the crank pins and con rods. Nice surprise today the postman delivered a parcel of parts I ordered yesterday afternoon, now that is "great" service (I will get my coat). One problem is that I thought I was ordering a fitting for feeding water into the boiler but have actually ordered a cover for it which is something I already have Aghhhh  so it's back to the drawing board for that part. However as the saying goes "I have a cunning plan" to use the spare cover  .  Yes I know I should be making the hand rail stanchions but at £2.88 for ten and time constraints I chose this route so apologies. Regards Paul
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Post by GWR 101 on Dec 22, 2021 15:04:48 GMT
Early Christmas present to self arrived today by post, this must have weighed his bag down  !!. 250 X 250 X 3mm thick its the smokebox, well it will be, I have decided to make it in two halves with a tongue and groove approach. I have learnt from the smokebox on Juliet that trying to do anything inside the smokebox at this gauge can be extremely frustrating. Have also arranged a source for the stainless superheater tubes, It looks like I am going to be very busy in the New Year.  Regards Paul
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Post by GWR 101 on Dec 23, 2021 16:55:06 GMT
Probably the last day in the workshop for a while, I decided to finish the crankpin jig as this requires a 7/16" pin to fit the wheel bore I decided to ream this in the lathe. So whilst the four jaw was in place I finished off the eccentrics by drilling and reaming the 1/2" hole to fit the axle. The drawing states 2BA grub screws which I happen to have so drilled and tapped these. Only one minor problem I cant find a hex key to fit them so looks it like I will have to grind one from a larger size, oh the wonders of model engineering. Regards Paul. 
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Post by GWR 101 on Dec 24, 2021 13:51:52 GMT
Managed to sneak off to the workshop for a hour, I was going to saw the brass plate for the smokebox in half to get the job done before the break. The plan was to have this ready for milling to the correct width when production resumed. Then logic kicked in and so I used a small end mill to cut through to the correct size and so turn two jobs into one. I seem to be having too many of these grey hair moments lately, fortunately I can remember where the Port and Stilton are so I will wish you all a Merry Christmas and good cheer. Regards Paul
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smallbrother
Elder Statesman
 
Errors aplenty, progress slow, but progress nonetheless!
Posts: 2,118
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Post by smallbrother on Dec 24, 2021 21:30:00 GMT
Looking forward to your progress in the New Year. Merry Christmas.
Pete.
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Midland
Elder Statesman
 
Posts: 1,782
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Post by Midland on Dec 25, 2021 11:35:51 GMT
Paul Don't like cluttering up your thread with news of mine but a quick note that the safety valve holes are plugged, the regulator isolated and ready for a hydraulic and accumulation test. And then once in ticket, how would you like a play, if it works of course?  ? Merry Christmas Cheers David
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Post by GWR 101 on Dec 25, 2021 19:03:35 GMT
No problem David, sounds like good news. Hope the test's go well, I think it will be a while before I get to that stage. As I have stated previously I am working as fast as I can and using modern technology when appropriate. I have hopefully arrange for a local model engineer to make my stainless superheaters, they have the correct equipment for welding and a certified welder. Once they are finished I will take them to the club boiler inspector to look at.(hopefully he will be reading this with anticipation or should that be trepidation !). I know there is a view that because they are past the regulator they are not deemed as part of the boiler, which I fully understand and these are being made by professionals so I have complete faith in them. However the boiler inspectors opinion will be nice when I eventually get to the boiler test. Regards Paul
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Post by GWR 101 on Dec 27, 2021 17:55:28 GMT
Today I started on the holes for the crank pins, I had already made a jig for getting these all the same. The location was a 7/16" peg to fit in the wheel bore and the pilot hole was drilled to accept a centre drill. Tomorrow I will drill and ream the holes. I have also fitted the grub screws in the eccentrics so will put them to one side until the pump is in situ I can then make the arm, I am only fitting one axle pump the other eccentric is for the cylinder lubrication. Regards Paul.  
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Post by simplyloco on Dec 27, 2021 17:58:38 GMT
Today I started on the holes for the crank pins, I had already made a jig for getting these all the same. The location was a 7/16" peg to fit in the wheel bore and the pilot hole was drilled to accept a centre drill. Tomorrow I will drill and ream the holes. I have also fitted the grub screws in the eccentrics so will put them to one side until the pump is in situ I can then make the arm, I am only fitting one axle pump the other eccentric is for the cylinder lubrication. Regards Paul. Good job. I did the same with the Brit: why would anyone not use a jig? John
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Post by GWR 101 on Dec 28, 2021 17:54:29 GMT
Thanks John, I realise like you members on here are possibly time served so they are aware of the advantages of jigs and fixtures but just in case anybody was unsure I thought I would mention it. Today I drilled and reamed the holes and started on the crank pins the first operation being to turn the silver steel down to be a press fit in the reamed holes. There are three pairs each pair being different, I have sawn them off and just started them in the holes so that I don't mix them up (or loose them !). I will finish machine them hopefully tomorrow, and them press them in. As a slight diversion I decided to make a start on the oil feed to the main axle boxes. I didn't adopt this method on Juliet but as the drawing for Jubilee shows this method and I was unsure about accessibility I thought I would follow suit. The drawing specifies 1/16" brass pipe, well fortunately a major DIY chain stocks 2mm.OD x .03mm thick brass tube. I have some I purchased previously I if I recall it was to protect the electric cable feeding the head lamp on Bridget (I must finish that at some time). 
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Post by GWR 101 on Dec 30, 2021 17:49:27 GMT
Finished machining the crankpins, now just need to put a 3/16" x 40 tpi thread on two and drill and tap the leading wheel ones. The drawing states 4 BA, but as I want to use csk. hex socket screws I have opted for 3mm. which I have ordered off the web. Best wishes to every one for the New Year. Paul 
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