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Post by GWR 101 on Dec 31, 2021 19:07:43 GMT
Managed to sneak a couple of hours today primarily to spray the Pony and Bogies in the greenhouse, this warm weather is a bonus at this time of year. I then decided to spend an hour in the workshop, after the recent work on the drive pins and whilst waiting delivery of the 3mm. screws I decided to fill the time undertaking some slightly different jobs.  Yes completely out of sequence I made a start on the buffers, incidentally the "large rusty lump" of CI in the background is for the brakes.  This is the backs being turned, centre drilled and screwed 5/16" 32 tpi. I think that's all for this year, hoping for more progress next year, unless you are reading this in the Eastern hemisphere when it will be more progress this year.  Best wishes Paul
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Post by fubar123 on Dec 31, 2021 19:49:24 GMT
Funnily enough Paul I did exactly the same job today . All the Best for 2023
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Midland
Elder Statesman
 
Posts: 1,782
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Post by Midland on Jan 1, 2022 9:36:41 GMT
Funnily enough Paul I did exactly the same job today . All the Best for 2023 . . . and 2022!
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Post by fubar123 on Jan 1, 2022 10:07:15 GMT
 Good to see at least one person is awake !
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Post by GWR 101 on Jan 3, 2022 17:15:37 GMT
Resumed work on the buffers today, managed to get all the turning completed then on to the miller.  I did have one minor snag which should be correctable, hopefully tomorrow. Must do something about the paint work on that buffer beam but that can wait for milder weather. Regards Paul
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Post by GWR 101 on Jan 4, 2022 17:49:09 GMT
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Post by stevep on Jan 5, 2022 11:04:00 GMT
Following a suggestion from a friend, when machining cast iron on the mill, I fix the nozzle of the shop vacuum cleaner close to the cutter. It sucks all the cast iron dust away and keeps the mill clean.
It is a strange sensation though, as the work piece reduces in size, and not seeing any swarf coming off, it looks quite magical.
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Post by GWR 101 on Jan 5, 2022 16:43:41 GMT
Steve, I must try that. I was instructed not to inhale any cast iron dust by my wife, these covid masks come in very useful at times, not sure about their effectiveness for this application and my glasses steam up. I assume the vacuum cleaner idea has the added bonus of keeping the dust from getting everywhere else. I did not venture into the workshop today, but have spent the time deciding on a fixture to bore the brake blocks and sourcing a 3/32" wide slitting saw. Regards Paul
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Post by GWR 101 on Jan 7, 2022 17:34:27 GMT
I have managed a couple of hours workshop time today to part off the slices of CI. for the brake blocks. Following Steve's post I fitted the vacuum cleaner nozzle near the cutter, this had the advantage of also blowing warm air onto my feet, not sure if the suction of cold air assisted in keeping the cutter cool !. I finished the layout on paper of the fixture for boring the blocks. According to the drawing 6 are required however there is no mention of them being handed although they are not symmetrical this means that they would be different on the loco. So I have decided to make 3 left hand and 3 right hand. The piece shown will make 2, I will see what they look like when fitted  , regards Paul.  
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Post by GWR 101 on Jan 9, 2022 13:48:52 GMT
Started work on the fixture for machining the brake blocks, wanted to machine the 6 in one go but I hadn't got a piece of plate larger enough. So I stick welded 3 pieces together and then set it up in the lathe, I was fortunate that the largest four jaw chuck I have was just large enough to hold the fixture (otherwise it would have needed the face plate). I then used the lathe DRO. to mark the various pitch circles remembering to centre drill so that I can easily reset it on the lathe after drilling the fixing holes. That's tomorrows job as it is fairly cold today. Regards Paul. 
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Post by GWR 101 on Jan 14, 2022 17:18:08 GMT
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Post by GWR 101 on Jan 16, 2022 15:33:06 GMT
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Post by GWR 101 on Jan 17, 2022 12:00:09 GMT
Have just collected the three super-heater elements from the model engineers / welders.  They have hydro tested them so hopefully the only leaks will be the header end. They have recommended Tenacity flux so I have ordered some, they are well over length so I will be able to practice on the off cuts. Regards Paul.
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Post by philh1aa on Jan 17, 2022 16:50:27 GMT
Perhaps somebody can answer a question about superheaters e.g., If you use a high melt temp silver solver to build stainless superheater elements - is the solder not good enough?
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Post by stevep on Jan 17, 2022 16:58:26 GMT
I think it depends on which end you are talking about. I suspect that a radiant superheater immediately over the fire may well melt even high temp silver solder.
In the smokebox, however, it will be fine.
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uuu
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Post by uuu on Jan 17, 2022 17:02:27 GMT
I wouldn't trust it within the firebox area. With burning coal being driven by induced extra airflow, you have conditions similar to a blacksmith's forge. The boiler pates are kept cool by water on their other sides - no such protection for the superheater.
Wilf
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Post by GWR 101 on Jan 17, 2022 19:06:55 GMT
I am absolute beginner when it comes to soldering most of the house plumbing that I have been involved in I have used compression fittings. 🤔 On Juliet I did use silver solder for the copper pipe super heaters at the fire box end, but they are also screwed into the PB ends. They stop short of actually entering into the fire box, so I am unsure of how effective they are. The people who have made mine are professional model engineers so I have followed their advice. Regards Paul
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Post by philh1aa on Jan 17, 2022 19:55:35 GMT
Thanks very much for those answers and forgive me for another question. Is there any data or thoughts on how good radiant superheaters are versus the traditional shortened type. Is there a noticeable difference between the two types? I can imagine to see the difference, you would need the same engine with one then the other type fitted to notice the difference.
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uuu
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Post by uuu on Jan 17, 2022 21:58:02 GMT
There have been some experimenters who have rigged up thermocouples in all the relevant places, to see the effectiveness of the superheater. I've found reference to Jim Ewins articles in Model Engineer in 1966. Radiant superheaters raised the temperature of the steam by 192°C, giving a final steam temperature of 327°C. Superheater elements reached 854°C (rather confirming the earlier thoughts on solder).
Not a side-by-side comparison, but interesting.
Wilf
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Post by GWR 101 on Jan 18, 2022 15:11:58 GMT
Well things have "rolled" along reasonably well this morning, must admit you really need a spinach diet for rolling 3mm. thick brass a lot harder than in days long ago winding the mangle on washing day.  I am glad I decided to have a split smokebox and left the pieces over length as it negates the problem of the unrolled ends, I hope that's still the case when I come to cut off the surplus.  As stated yesterday the stainless superheaters are also intentionally well over length, this is how much they protrude when over half way across the firebox. Regards Paul 
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