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Post by doubletop on Jul 21, 2021 5:16:29 GMT
OK, its just that the tanks on the drawings do not appear to have bottoms? I'll take another look but they appear to rely on the running boards to stop the water from falling out. Phil As I said before, build it with an eye on maintenance. With the internal valve gear being able to get the tanks off easily will repay you in the future. Being able to get the cab and tanks off easily even better. My tanks have 2 x6BA blind bushes in the base with bolts through the running boards and 1x6BA blind bush in the ends to secure the cab to them . A small balance tank under the bunker and silicon tube joining them together. My 7.25β Dart, although has dry tanks with 10Kg of lead in each side, the cab and tanks are held down to the running boards with only 2x6BA and 2x4BA bolts. The cab and tanks are joined together with 4x4BA nuts on studs. The cab and tanks can be removed in 5mins which makes pre and post running lubrication and maintenance easy. As the Rob Roy can be easily flipped on its side or back, when supported by the buffers in a cradle, there is no need to be able to get the tanks off for the pre-run lube up. Pete
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stevep
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,070
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Post by stevep on Jul 21, 2021 8:16:05 GMT
I agree with Pete. My Rob Roy tanks have studs soldered into the bottom, that go through holes in the running boards. 2 x 4BA each side, I think.
My cab is held down with 3 x 6 BA screws through the angles at the bottom of the sides and back, into tapped holes in the running board angle and buffer angle respectively.
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Post by philh1aa on Jul 21, 2021 9:08:50 GMT
OK, Thanks again chaps. They sound like a good plans for the tank fixings. I will definitely put a bottom in and use a few studs etc to hold them down. I will also be going for 1/16" sheet running boards rather than 18g too.
Hopefully, I will be going to the Rob Roy rally in September - so I will be able to see different solutions on other engines? I have seen various ways of cutting the cab to give running access e.g., remove the roof completely or various different sized 'cut outs'. Is there any recommendations or ideas I should avoid?
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stevep
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,070
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Post by stevep on Jul 21, 2021 11:05:57 GMT
On mine, the cab back and rear half of the roof come off as a unit.
I also have a cut-out in the rear of the bunker to give better access for driving, and more importantly, allow me to brush the firetubes through the firehole.
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Post by philh1aa on Jul 21, 2021 14:03:12 GMT
Thanks Steve. To clarify, I assume the front spectacle plate, sides, front section of roof, either side of the bunker and the bunker tank is semi permanent and the rest lifts away?
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stevep
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,070
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Post by stevep on Jul 22, 2021 8:42:11 GMT
That's correct. I'll try and take a picture and post it for you to see.
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Post by theflyingscotsman on Jul 23, 2021 20:39:26 GMT
OK, Thanks again chaps. They sound like a good plans for the tank fixings. I will definitely put a bottom in and use a few studs etc to hold them down. I will also be going for 1/16" sheet running boards rather than 18g too. Hopefully, I will be going to the Rob Roy rally in September - so I will be able to see different solutions on other engines? I have seen various ways of cutting the cab to give running access e.g., remove the roof completely or various different sized 'cut outs'. Is there any recommendations or ideas I should avoid? where is said rally please?
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stevep
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,070
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Post by stevep on Jul 24, 2021 9:00:58 GMT
The Andover club started an annual 'one-make' rally for Rob Roys several years ago. Deciding that they didn't want to run it again, the reins are being taken over by Bromsgrove club. This year's rally is on September 11th.
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stevep
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,070
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Post by stevep on Jul 24, 2021 16:20:04 GMT
Ironic, this conversation about making things removeable, as I have my cab off at the moment to do some work. Anyway, as promised, here are some [pictures of it. First - all assembled. Then with the back slid out. You can just make out the cut-out in the back of the bunker.
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Post by philh1aa on Jul 24, 2021 18:40:13 GMT
Thanks Steve, really helpful pictures. I have already bought the laser cut cab kit but I was thinking of adding the channel (like yours) and using 8BA countersunk screws with filler (possibly low temperature solder) on the outside to fill the countersinks.
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Post by theflyingscotsman on Jul 25, 2021 20:46:37 GMT
thankyou for the pictures steve, i too have been intereted in how people do the robroy cab
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Post by philh1aa on Feb 1, 2023 21:24:23 GMT
The Smokebox!!! I really would like to investigate the building of the smokebox using a 1/16" thick brass strip for the outer wrapper that extends down between the frames to form the sides of the saddle - just like the real engines. Has anybody successfully formed a brass smokebox outer wrapper/saddle - maybe for a different engine and what recipe did you follow e.g., does the brass sheet need to be annealed? Would a decent hard wood former and loads of clamps etc work? Might I need to go as far as making an internal plus external former to get the brass to behave or is it all much easier than I think? I have got some hardwood available. Phil H
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