Gary L
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,208
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Post by Gary L on Jun 6, 2022 22:04:30 GMT
Hi Pete
It's all coming along really well, and it will be very satisfying to have dismantled everything for painting so you can give it all a thorough checkout.
Is is an optrickal illusion though, or have your wheels been turned without any flange root radius? Also the flange tips ought really to be rounded, though it is less of a roadholding issue
Not wanting to rain on your parade. (There was quite a lot of that here yesterday!)
Gary
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Post by doubletop on Jun 7, 2022 9:34:11 GMT
Hi Pete It's all coming along really well, and it will be very satisfying to have dismantled everything for painting so you can give it all a thorough checkout. Is is an optrickal illusion though, or have your wheels been turned without any flange root radius? Also the flange tips ought really to be rounded, though it is less of a roadholding issue Not wanting to rain on your parade. (There was quite a lot of that here yesterday!) Gary Thanks There is some root radius but probably not to SMEE spec. However I haven’t had any problems with derails as a result. This loco was second hand and I started to fix a few bits and got somewhat carried away. By the end of this exercise the only original parts remaining will be the frames, wheels (not axles), smokebox, saddle, dome and the buffer stocks. Absolutely everything else will have been replaced. In its original state The rain has just started here but we did have a pleasant weekend without any. I did say I wasn't going to do this but as I'm here. Paint removal today. Still more work on this but the bulk of it is done Pete
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stevep
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,070
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Post by stevep on Jun 7, 2022 10:42:32 GMT
SNIP In its original state Pete I hate it when people "quote" pictures, but in this case, I feel I have to. The engine is going to look MUCH better when you have finished with it.
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Post by doubletop on Jun 7, 2022 22:01:02 GMT
I hate it when people "quote" pictures, but in this case, I feel I have to. The engine is going to look MUCH better when you have finished with it. Steve I'd hope so but it wasn't like that when I started this project Here it is after my original refurbishment, the work this time is to bring the platework up to scratch Pete
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Post by doubletop on Jun 12, 2022 1:21:00 GMT
Re-painting the frames in the assembled state was never going to work. So I decided to strip it down and remove the outer frames, the buffer beams and stretchers. Gave the smaller parts a zap in the sand blaster and the two main frame sections a good rub over with 400grit and then wash all the parts down with wax and grease remover. After 24 hours or so they were dry enough for etch primer. Not really necessary for steel with the epoxy enamel top coat I am using but it does give a better key.
Etch primer on Friday First coat on Saturday. It is winter here and only 12degC in my garage. Even in good condition Epoxy enamel takes an age to dry, 12- 16 hours. However, I decided to use satin finish and that was touch dry in about 4 hours so able to do the opposite sides the same day. Then the second coat on Sunday All that remains is the inside of the main frames, in red, forward of the boiler front stretcher. I can only get that in gloss so could well take until Wednesday before two coats of that is dry. Pete
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Post by doubletop on Jun 12, 2022 23:30:48 GMT
Yay!! I have 2mm (5/64”) rivets. Only 14 days from Ebay www.ebay.com/itm/133455858984I can’t use them right now as the workshop space is taken up with painting the frames Pete
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Post by steamer5 on Jun 13, 2022 3:25:55 GMT
Hey Pete, Hope you are keeping dry & warm & haven’t suffered any wind damage. Guess it will delay the painting a bit.
Cheers Kerrin
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Post by doubletop on Jun 13, 2022 9:21:52 GMT
Hey Pete, Hope you are keeping dry & warm & haven’t suffered any wind damage. Guess it will delay the painting a bit. Cheers Kerrin Kerrin We are good thanks there's a hill between us and the recent incoming bad weather Pete
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Post by doubletop on Jun 20, 2022 6:46:13 GMT
Not a lot has been happened down here in wintery New Zealand. It’s been cold and damp and I’ve literally been watching paint dry, or not. I have managed to get permission to bring it into the house to speed up the process. Truthfully, I was encouraged to bring it in. So this week may well see the re-assembly of the frames and running gear. Pete
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Post by 92220 on Jun 20, 2022 7:55:02 GMT
Hi Pete.
You say about the etch primer giving a better adhesion to steel. It's other main advantage is that the phosphoric acid, which is part of all etch primers, also acts as a rust inhibitor. 2-pack is better than single pack, for this as there is a lot more acid in the 2-pack systems.....so a double advantage.
Bob.
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Post by doubletop on Jun 20, 2022 10:03:36 GMT
Hi Pete. You say about the etch primer giving a better adhesion to steel. It's other main advantage is that the phosphoric acid, which is part of all etch primers, also acts as a rust inhibitor. 2-pack is better than single pack, for this as there is a lot more acid in the 2-pack systems.....so a double advantage. Bob. Bob When I got the the paint off the frames there was evidence of primer. I would have used etch primer last time I painted the frames. The only evidence of rust was in the openings in the frame for the blow downs. That was quickly dealt with. I'm still expecting delivery of the colour sample you sent, it will the be off to the suppliers to get some paint made up. As I'm using aerosols I'm not sure if they will be able to do them in 2-pack. Apperently they are available but I understand they are effectivley single use. Once activated they need to be used. I dont think I'm that organised or have the space to paint everything in one go. I'll see once I get to that point. Pete
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Post by doubletop on Jun 21, 2022 3:16:49 GMT
The paint sample, kindly supplied by Bob ( 92220 ) arrived today. It is a lot darker than I expected and I can now see why he is saying all the proposed equivalents may not be a match. However, don't try matching against the image below as that hasn't come out anything like the sample sheet. Many thanks again Bob, I'll get it to the suppliers. Pete
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Post by 92220 on Jun 21, 2022 12:37:57 GMT
Hi Pete.
I'm pleased to hear it has arrived safely. It did take rather a long time, didn't it!!
Bob.
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Post by doubletop on Jun 22, 2022 9:14:43 GMT
Hi Pete. I'm pleased to hear it has arrived safely. It did take rather a long time, didn't it!! Bob. Bob Three weeks is about it for standard mail these days. At times I was 3 months behind on Model Engineer deliveries but recently I have been getting some copies within the period the issue covers. You learn to live with it and get on with something else. If it is urgent, you just pay the price and go DHL and they can deliver in about 5 days. Pete
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Post by doubletop on Jun 28, 2022 7:27:44 GMT
The strip re-paint and rebuild is just about done. All that remains to do of the original loco is the smokebox and boiler cladding. The smokebox just required a rub down and fresh coat of paint. The cladding was stripped back to bare metal, given a zap in the sand blaster and then a coat of etch primer. The sample supplied by Bob ( 92220 ) went to the paint shop on Thursday, for a colour match, and three cans ordered and picked up yesterday. BTW ( 92220 ) what does Popst refer to? That was on your covering letter that came with the sample. Pete
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Post by 92220 on Jun 28, 2022 8:00:26 GMT
OOoops!! I normally check what I have typed. I missed that one!
At least you must have an accurate match for Popst 1928 Loco Green as they have labeled it as that too!!
Bob.
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Post by doubletop on Jun 28, 2022 8:22:13 GMT
OOoops!! I normally check what I have typed. I missed that one! At least you must have an accurate match for Popst 1928 Loco Green as they have labeled it as that too!! Bob. I realise what you meant now, in fact they wrote “GWR Post 1928” on the order form. However, it will be uniquely identifiable in New Zealand. If any fellow New Zealanders want a can of GWR 1928-1945 Loco Green just go to totalbodyshop.co.nz/ and quote “GWR Post 1928 Loco Green” and they’ll make you some up. It is in their database. Pete
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Post by doubletop on Jul 9, 2022 4:15:08 GMT
I’ve been a bit quiet over the past week or so, primarily because things haven’t been going as well as I would have liked. After I’d etch primed the boiler cladding, I did the top coat with one of the cans of GWR green. It didn’t come out too well, so rubbed it back and tried again. It just wouldn’t come right and I did it two or three times. I was getting concerned as, although it was OK to rub back the boiler parts, that would have been impossible with the platework parts because of all the rivets. The spray from the can just didn’t seem right so I did a test. The numbers at the top are the can numbers and the letters are Red or White spray nozzles. Red or white doesn’t mean anything but the cans came with red nozzles and I was given some spares with my order. So can 1 was playing up and it wasn’t the nozzle. The test for can 2 used the white nozzle I had used for can 1. So, a problem with can 1. I went back to the shop with the evidence and they replaced without question acknowledging that sometimes they get a rogue can. Further discussion with the experts at the shop I was advised not to spray in the current weather conditions as it would affect the result. It has been wet and 9degC for a few days on end here. Advice was to choose my day and don’t spray until the weather had warmed up a bit. So I’ve moved on to the new platework and put the first batch through the sand blaster. The sand blaster has been transformed with the addition of a dust extractor. My old unit didn’t have one and you really couldn’t see what you were doing with the dust flying around inside the box. Now this one is a joy to use and very little escape of dust. This model doesn’t come with one fitted but they are fitted to the larger floor standing models and one of the suppliers had a dust extractor available. A really simple job. Anyway, all the running board parts were zapped. Rinsed down with wax and grease remover. The stuff the bodywork painters use. And you can see why you need to do it. All the dust residue left in the wax and grease remover. Once it was dry the etch primer was applied. It is important to get this first coat on as soon as you can because the vastly increased surface area from the sand blasting can absorb moisture into the crevices. BTW the running boards and hanging rails wouldn't have fitted into the sand balster when assembled, so I blasted the parts seperately and applied the etch primer before I riveted them together. I did it in that order so the cleaned parts wouldn't pick up any wax or grease while I was doing the riveting. It will be easier to give the primed parts a light run over with 800 grit papaer and degrease prior to final painting. Pete
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Post by 92220 on Jul 9, 2022 8:06:20 GMT
Hi Pete.
The sprayings look as if they may have got the proportion of pigments to resin wrong, and maybe not quite enough propellant either. They are right about the temperature though, which also may be the cause of the problem. 60F, or 15.5C, is the ideal temp for any painting. 9C (48F) doesn't allow the propellant in the can, to change from liquid to gas, quickly enough, so the gas pressure inside the can drops too far as soon as you press the button, so you don't get full atomisation of the paint for spraying. Just as an example, if you tried to use a spray can at an ambient temperature of around -10C, the can just wouldn't spray as the liquid gas wouldn't evaporate to produce an internal pressure. The other problem with using spray cans at too low an ambient temp, is that the paint that has been sprayed, won't dry quickly enough to give a decent finish. It can sag on vertical surfaces. The other problem is that the paint emerges as tiny globules and these don't flow out into a smooth surface, if it is too cold...hence the 60F (15.5C) being the ideal working temp.
Hope that helps.
Bob.
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Post by 92220 on Jul 9, 2022 8:23:36 GMT
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