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Post by simplyloco on Nov 1, 2022 11:22:27 GMT
The Castings are a joy to behold! All the castings -except three which I know about- arrived as promised. Each bag contains sticky parts labels so I don't get confused at a leter date! The detail is excellent: ribs are sharp, minimal flash, and what flash there was has been removed sympathetically. The main block is a peach! Well chuffed and I can't wait to get on with it. John   
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Post by simplyloco on Nov 1, 2022 18:42:33 GMT
First cuts tonight. Some trepidatioon on my part as it's the first serious machining I've done since my right eye lost a little of it's effectiveness! Not to worry, I'm adjusting! Bashing away at the cylinder casting on the FB2/V10P mill. The material machines beautifully! I tried using the boring head to get the two cylinders in perfect alignment, but there wasn't enough travel so I'll do it on the faceplate.  Lovely finish. The centreline witness mark came off with a rub on the surface plate.  Turned over to find a 0.030" belly on the casting. I'll finish it tomorrow.  |
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Post by ettingtonliam on Nov 1, 2022 19:11:08 GMT
I imagine that belly is just the draft angle that allows the pattern to be removed from the mould.
Maybe you should send a copy of your photographs to Stuarts with a note that this is what castings should look like.
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dalboy
E-xcellent poster
Posts: 235
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Post by dalboy on Nov 1, 2022 19:36:27 GMT
They look nice castings. And a good start Maybe you should send a copy of your photographs to Stuarts with a note that this is what castings should look like. I was thinking the same thing  |
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Post by simplyloco on Nov 1, 2022 20:36:28 GMT
I imagine that belly is just the draft angle that allows the pattern to be removed from the mould. Maybe you should send a copy of your photographs to Stuarts with a note that this is what castings should look like. They've refunded my money, so I don't want to rub salt in the wound! The lady at Reeves admitted watching the Stuart Facebook forum, so I suspect they are doing the same! |
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tony9f
Seasoned Member
Posts: 115
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Post by tony9f on Nov 2, 2022 9:37:09 GMT
Hi,
I built one of these engines about thirty years ago and I think you've made a good choice. I've had a fascination with marine engines since childhood and this was the closest to a real one that I could find short of building from scratch. As far as it goes, I'd reckon it to be to a scale of 3/4" to the foot which would make it representative of a large tug or coaster type engine.
The castings on mine were good and machined well although at a later stage I made a new bedplate as I felt the supplied one didn't look marine enough. I wanted to build it as close to Board of Trade specifications as possible having in my possession various old books on the subject, so the crankshaft was made with figure of eight webs and a flange coupling, the eccentric sheaves have been shaped as prototype and the crossheads have split bearings. In addition, the reversing arms on the wyper shaft have been altered to allow 'linking up' of the valve gear.
I would suggest that when you bore the cylinders that you line bore them on the lathe after the castings have been machined and assembled into a single unit to ensure parallelity of the bores. Sorry if this is an egg sucking lecture, it's just that I should have done this myself in retrospect.
Anyway, have fun with it...
Tony
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Post by simplyloco on Nov 2, 2022 9:57:12 GMT
Hi, I built one of these engines about thirty years ago and I think you've made a good choice. SNIP I would suggest that when you bore the cylinders that you line bore them on the lathe after the castings have been machined and assembled into a single unit to ensure parallelity of the bores. Sorry if this is an egg sucking lecture, it's just that I should have done this myself in retrospect. Anyway, have fun with it... Tony Excellent advice Tony, got any photos of the finished article? John |
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tony9f
Seasoned Member
Posts: 115
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Post by tony9f on Nov 2, 2022 10:53:49 GMT
John,
Yes I have some pictures that I took when building and I'm sure I can take some more. I must admit that the engine isn't finished completely as it was interrupted by having to undertake a what turned out to be an 8 year rebuild on my motorbike. After that, momentum sort of dropped off. Several years of doing up my house also got in the way and then I bought a 9F (oh dear).
I will try and post on here but if I can't I might have to send them to you personally.
Tony
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jasonb
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,236
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Post by jasonb on Nov 2, 2022 11:28:01 GMT
Funny enough I was thinking the same thing earlier after looking at John's Photos of the castings. The Reeves Sole plate looks like it would be more in keeping under the Stuart as they tend to be less detailed engines for for actual practical use in a hull
The more detailed Stuart item would be more in keeping with the higher level of detail and scale appearance of the Bolton/Reeves design which I think most tend to build as a display piece rather than putting it to work.
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Midland
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,875
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Post by Midland on Nov 2, 2022 17:59:24 GMT
John
Will enjoy watching this take shape! There is something fascinating about a Marine engine doing it work especially as it takes the load, so much brute force. The frigates I served in had two quadruple cylinder triple expansion LP/HP/IP/LP and watching them take the load when the telegraph went half ahead was awesome. You could actually feel it on the bridge where luckily I spent much of my time!!!
Cheers David
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Post by simplyloco on Nov 3, 2022 18:33:57 GMT
Boring the LP and IP cylinders.I didn't get much done today as we are getting rid of furniture to make room for the new! However, I used the boring head in anger for only the second time, and it's OK, as I could get the cylinders precisely in line and at the exact centres using the DRO, but I have to say I much prefer using the faceplate method! I machined the bores now, as I need them in position to size the overall length. It should (!) be a simple matter to clock up the HP cylinder in line later. The centre height on the EMCO is 108mm, and I was lucky in finding a pair of vee blocks and some 1.25mm copper plate to set the correct height, which put the bores in just the right place!  Just starting to get a result, but there is a lot to come off yet! The material machines beautifully... 
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Post by steamer5 on Nov 4, 2022 3:06:57 GMT
Hi John,
Looks good!
Can I make a suggestion? The boring bar(s) you have , toss them in the bin! Buy a couple of tipped bars to suit the boring head that you would use in the lathe. Cut the length down, the bars I brought were 150 mm, I cut 1 to 70mm & the other to 100mm …… had tried them at full length but there was to much chatter & spring…. they work far better than the ones that came with the boring head!
Cheers Kerrin
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Post by flyingfox on Nov 4, 2022 7:45:56 GMT
Greetings John, so pleased that your castings are of decent quality.
Re boring head, I can see no sign of chatter on the bores, so the tool can't be that bad, but for bores like this I prefer the between centres boring bar, which is very rigid, and should give a parallel bore, particularly when the saddle travels in both directions.
Keep up the good work, you are encouraging me to unearth my set of castings.
Regards
Brian B
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Post by simplyloco on Nov 4, 2022 12:19:18 GMT
Boring Head discarded. Back to basics!My dodgy right eye caused me to misread the divisions on the boring head, so the piston bore is a little oversize, and I didn't like the setup any way, so I've reverted to the faceplate method, as learned in 1964! I'd already started both bores, so it was a simple matter of clocking up when on the faceplate and running a proper boring tool through. I'll just have to make the IP piston a little bigger...  
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Post by springcrocus on Nov 4, 2022 16:03:50 GMT
To be quite honest, John, I didn't rate your previous setup and started to comment last night but changed my mind. That front clamp looked decidedly dodgy, pressing down on fresh air. The block could have pivoted about the rear clamp. The latest setup is much better, in my opinion.
Nice work. 
Regards, Steve
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Post by simplyloco on Nov 6, 2022 11:28:34 GMT
Flycutting the ends to size. On checking the centre distance of the two bores I was slightly disappointed that it was wasn't 2.2500" Mind you, 2.2495" was close enough... 
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Post by simplyloco on Nov 7, 2022 16:59:15 GMT
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Post by chris vine on Nov 7, 2022 17:07:54 GMT
Hi John,
I think you will have to get some and see how squidgy it is.
My experience of graphited yarns, is that the string packs in better than the braided stuff.
Chris.
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Post by RGR 60130 on Nov 7, 2022 17:21:01 GMT
John,
Having used this stuff in numerous marine steam applications I'd recommend it. This is what is in my tank engine for piston sealing and it was fine. Cut the ends at 45 degrees such that you can see the angle when it's installed.
Reg
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Post by simplyloco on Nov 7, 2022 17:25:54 GMT
John, Having used this stuff in numerous marine steam applications I'd recommend it. This is what is in my tank engine for piston sealing and it was fine. Cut the ends at 45 degrees such that you can see the angle when it's installed. Reg Reg Thanks for this: I was pretty sure it would work OK and you have confirmed it! Thanks Chris. I'll have to test the fit! John |
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