Hello

[jamespetts]

Havoc,

thank you very much for your detailed reply - it is most kind. My plan at present is to use a DC, rather than an AC generator (so that I can power computers and other electronics with power supplies with wide input voltages designed to run from in-car DC systems), and, rather than building my own generator, to buy a brushed DC motor and connect that to the engine by means of a sprocket and chain drive.

I have found what I think is a suitable motor, with a 6-12v rating, ball bearings, 75% efficiency (with maximum efficiency at 3A, which, when multiplied by 12V, gives 36W - very close to what will hopefully be the average operating power), and an unloaded speed of 4,100RPM.

The Stuart Score has a top speed of 2,000RPM, so, using an 8-tooth sprocket on the motor and either a 20 or 25 tooth sprocket on the engine side (both of which can be fitted to the spare end of the crankshaft opposite the flywheel end using a grubscrew) should enable the motor to run at optimal speed for the right voltage and maximum efficiency.

[tweendecker]

Hi, I read your article with great interest as I have just purchased the castings for a Stuart 10V. I too am a total novice and have been given a secondhand Warco minilathe.The problem is I don't even know how to use it. I also purchased the 'Building A Vertical Steam Engine' book in the hope that it assisted with my quest to build the engine.
I turned the page to make a start and hey-ho the first job was to machine the boxbed. Not having ANY Lathe experience I just looked out of the window and sighed.
Having said that I do not intend to give up at the first hurdle so any help or advice from people in a similar sitaution to me would be greatly appreciated

[AndrewP]

Hi tweendecker, you are where I was 18 months ago so if you'll learn from my mistakes, first off hide the 10V kit and find some scrap metal to practice on. It is much less painful to make a mess out of a piece of found scrap than a £20 casting.

The Workshop Practice series of books are excellent and no 34 is 'Lathework, A complete course' which is supposed to start from beginner, personally I thought it went a bit fast at first.

Ask specific questions in here and you will, usually, get a stack of good, often different, answers.

Have fun, Andy

[tweendecker]

agatehouse said:

Hi tweendecker, you are where I was 18 months ago so if you'll learn from my mistakes, first off hide the 10V kit and find some scrap metal to practice on. It is much less painful to make a mess out of a piece of found scrap than a £20 casting.

The Workshop Practice series of books are excellent and no 34 is 'Lathework, A complete course' which is supposed to start from beginner, personally I thought it went a bit fast at first.

Ask specific questions in here and you will, usually, get a stack of good, often different, answers.

Have fun, Andy

Hello AndrewP
I much appreciate you speedy response !!
Thanks for the tip.I'll obtain a copy of the book you suggest and get hold of some square and round bar to have a play on.
Could I ask what might appear to be a silly question i.e. when using the lathe,is it necessary to have a constant stream of lubricant fed on to the job or would I get away with lubricant in a squeezy bottle squirted on when necessary?
Thanks very much,
Tweendecker

[jgb7573]

Hi Tweendecker. Welcome aboard!
It's not necessary to have a stream of lubricant. Very good results have been obtained with a squeezy bottle and even a brush dipped in juice and then on the job. In fact, depending on how sharp your tool is, and how much metal you want to remove, you can get decent results without lubricant at all. The thing to do is to have a try and see what works best for you.
And some metals don't need luibricant at all (brass and cast iron to name two).

[AndrewP]

Tweendecker, I've replied in the General section of the board to avoid hijacking James thread, but not fast enough obviously. Mind you I seem to have got something right though I see

[tweendecker]

jgb7573 said:

Hi Tweendecker. Welcome aboard!
It's not necessary to have a stream of lubricant. Very good results have been obtained with a squeezy bottle and even a brush dipped in juice and then on the job. In fact, depending on how sharp your tool is, and how much metal you want to remove, you can get decent results without lubricant at all. The thing to do is to have a try and see what works best for you.
And some metals don't need luibricant at all (brass and cast iron to name two).

jgb7573 I appreciate you taking the time to reply,thank you.
Tweendecker.