Myford Lathes

[Deleted]

There are quite a few Myford ML7's on Evil Bay at the moment, question is " how much is one worth in reasonable condition ?"

[Myford Matt]

Bit of a length-of-string question. Have a look through completed sales, and you'll see what they tend to go for. Plus you need to decide if you want extras such as a stand or gearbox, and do you care about appearance, as opposed to actual engineering condition.

What's your budget?

[havoc]

What is "reasonable condition" and how are you going to ascertain it is in a "reasonable condition"?

[chris vine]

Hi Havoc,

Condition is in the eye of the beholder! Since you won't be able to post it, you should go and have a look to check it over carefully.

I don't know what your budget is but ML7s do not usually fetch too much money. So I would think that for a bit extra it is well worth holding out for one with a screw cutting gearbox. They are very handy and once you have one, you wonder how you ever managed without!

A lot of people say that if the lathe looks well looked after, eg paint and no dings in the bed, then it probably is guite good if you don't have time to check everything properly.

Also if you do buy one and it turns out to be a dud, you can probably get your money back on flea bay!

Chris.

[Smifffy]

..personally, I would say go for a Boxford A, B or CUD. A much better (IMHO) machine and normally go for a lot less than a similar condition Myford. Without a doubt you need to go and look at any machine before you bid on it. I looked at a few myfords and they all suffered from worn beds.

Good luck :-)

[Noddy]

A myford bed is a lot easier to have re ground than a Boxford / Southbend.

Among the many things to check out, are spindle play. End float is easily adjusted by the collar at the head, but, once worn out (out of little peel off shims between the bearings and still too much play) you will need a new hardened spindle to go into the new bronze bearings. They are available, but check the price.

Early ML7s will need the back of the saddle casting drilling before you can fit a long cross slide.

Back gear sleeves being run dry and broken teeth on the bull wheel / back gear are the only other real nasties, unless someone parked a truck on the bed overnight...

Although i have an ML7, If you have the room, there are many big lathes with way more capacity, gear boxes and power cross feed, going for scrap price or even free rather than to scrap.

Keith

Oh yes, take a good look at the leadscrew turning. I once bought a lathe with a bent leadscrew - don't you repeat my mistake...

[houstonceng]

Orville " how much is one worth in reasonable condition ?"

It's only worth as much as you are willing to pay.

On the other hand, the cost can be anything from £200 to £1500 depending on many factors. MM, Havoc, Chris, Smiffy & Noddy have covered most of the practical ones.

I'd like to add, from personal experience, that sometimes a retiring Model Engineer will be willing to sell it to another enthusiast for a "song" rather than see it go to a commercial dealer - who'll only give him as much (if that) and then sell it on at a bigger profit.

A relative of mine picked up a nearly new Super 7 - plus nearly all the accessories that Myford produced - for circa £800. He thought he was just getting the lathe, from a fellow club-member, until the guy said, "Don't forget to take the bits in those boxes over there !".

[wayne]

Myfords show is on this week Thursday Friday and Saturday. At the last one you could ask the fitters questions. if you go ask Brian or Darren what to look for in terms of wear, they will properly show you how to check as well. Also have a feel of the reconditioned MLs this will give you a feel how the carriage, cross slide and top slide should feel when properly adjusted.

Also consider a Ml 7r which is a super seven without the ml7's cross and topslide or clutch, also the cross slide is not scraped in.

Boxford vs Myford, the Boxford are a more robust unit and often cheaper than a Myford in the same condition. However Myford are cheaper to keep running, ie bed regrind, croslide feed screw and nut ect, general Myford accessories are more plentiful and generally cheaper

I have no connection to Myford other than I have always received a first class service from them

Hope this helps Wayne

[alanstepney]

Probably more models have been built on the Myford 7 lathes than on any other.
They have the advantage of loads of plans to make extras, and a plentiful supply of accessories.

With care, they will last a long time. I saw one in a factory that had done 25+ years hard work and was still in use.

I bought my ML7 back in the late 60's, since when it has been used, and abused, and yet will probably outlast me.

The Boxford, especially the AUD, was always reckoned to be superior to the Myford, and is slightly larger, but spares are less easy to find, and for most work, a ML or Super 7 will suffice.

However, the do wear and things can go wrong.
Therefore I would NEVER buy one unseen, and if you are at all unsure, take along someone who knows them to give a second opinion.

[Richmond]

In the dim and distant past I had a Boxford AUD mk3 ( 5 ")..........great machine, but most spares like steadies etc on 2nd hand market are for 4 1/2" machines. All other spares fit regardless ( as far as I know ), and even most Southbend parts fit too. John Ward ( no relation ) does a lot of spares for Boxfords......Google "lathe parts" and his info should come up.

To the present, my S7 is 51 yrs old, the bed has been reground, but so far everything else in the rebuild appears to be ok with little or no wear. The parts that are in need of replacement are due to damage / misuse by the previoius owners!

As for use and flexibility, the S7 is yet to be tested....... I have several other "projects" to complete, these being 2 other rebuilds, a Herbert Mill, and an Elliot 10M Shaper, as well as modifying a Boxford 240TCL CNC lathe for use with "modern" PC's, assembling a CNC Mill, and a complete rebuild of a Denford 280 VS Synchro CNC lathe.

So, I have plenty to keep busy, and probably plenty of parts to make on the Myford.

My advice, is as usual the same as most other peoples, dont buy unseen ( even though I just did it with the Denford, but for £50 it is worth more in scrap value )... Take a DTI and vernier, cut some metal with big cuts, make the bearings work, and if the seller objects to you playing or measuring, then dont buy it!

I will be attending the Myford Open Show on Friday, so if any of you are going I will see you there

Rgds
Keith

[ravensworth2674]

Owning two Myfords, a ML7 and and a Super 7B, may I add to the discussion?
Neither machines are in the first or second flush of youth like me but the important thing to add is that both machines have lower speeds than the Boxfords. It means that larger jobs which require slow speeds can made possible without going to carbide tooling or the involvement in three phase jiggery pokery. If you understand the black arts- and find a cheap Oxbox and thingy which doesn't blow all the trips, bash on.
Probably the thing to go for is a Myford- and one with 3, 4 and whatever accessories so that you can move on to make the other goodies which are desirable- on any lathe.
As has been said, construction notes on Myford goodies are still in print with Thomas, Tubal Cain, Radford and 'Cleeve' With care and a bit of craft, use the local public library to get into the 50's and unearth 'Martin Cleeve' articles on his ML7 where he only had a part ML7 and fabricated things like steadies, arbours, dividing swag and gear cutting. OK, his screwcutting stuff is still in print but the best bits for those who may be money tight are still valid. You get my drift?
Again for the cash strapped, I wrote up a bit on a regrind for a ropey ML7 and it cost £30+.
( MEW April/May 2000)
At this stage, I am 'doing up' other bits like a giddy clutch on the S7B and making bits that Myford has long forgotten.

The foregoing does suggest that Myford may be the better bit but all these books will only cost you a couple of fills of fuel in your family car. It will be interesting to learn of your successes. We all wish you well!

Norman

[Tony K]

There is probably not much to add to the above, other than to emphasis a few points - number one being go and look - a genuine seller will let you try it out (just like genuine sellers of locos). Make yourself a list of things to look for when viewing - most of us feel uneasy at that time and forget some of the things we should have looked at e.g. bed wear, dinks, bearings, noises and whines, damage, general play.
Why not write yourself a rough specification and stick to it - Super 7 long bed, power cross-feed, screwcutting gearbox, 3 phase motor (for fitting an inverter controller), myford industrial stand, is probably as good as it gets in Myford, IMHO, but that will run out at nearly/over £2k in decent nick. You may not want to go that far - but just write a list of what you want.

If it is your first lathe, do not rule out the later models such as Myford Speed 10 - they tend to be cheaper and are still good lathes to start on. There is certainly an advantage to a deal including the accessories - they add up if you have to buy them. I would not rule out Boxford either - they have greater centre height, are good lathes and their prices are not inflated by the cult following of Myford.

Beware of newly green painted models made to look newer - they sometimes reveal grey underneath - nothing wrong with grey though if in good condition. Beware the chaps advertising used components from breaking - probably not the best people to buy a lathe from.

Like everything else, you only really find out how good it is until you get it home and use it. It will always have shortcomings that you did not realise, but that is something to remember for your next one.

One last thing - avoid second hand chucks on eBay. They are usually ones someone has replaced and they do that for a reason. It is difficult enough learning without trying to do the impossible with a crap chuck - from one who did it! Get yourself a good one - at least then you know the problem is not the chuck!

[Deleted]

Just been looking at Myfords website at the prices of new machines and got the shock of my life . Are they "THAT" good ?

[Smifffy]

.....nah :-)

[Myford Matt]

Brand new, Myfords are an extraordinary price – but second hand they can be a good buy. Have you seen this on ebay:

200217063868

Not cheap (you could very easily spend less), but you do get a lot for your money, in what 'appears' to be excellent condition.

Worth remembering that in this condition you could easily spend a thousand on the gearbox (£400), the taper turning attachment (£250), the stand (£200), and the Dixons bits (£150).

Why not make him an offer... it's sat there for nearly three days without a bid.

(usual disclaimer)

MM

[Deleted]

£3500 ! Not a chance

[steam4ian]

G'day all.

Looking at the Myford prices I have to wonder if people are mad.
Consider what you could get for the same price, bigger swing, powered cross slide, separate long travel drive shaft, double prism ways etc etc etc, even variable speed on or a geared head.

No wonder all the TV shows we see of the UK are set in empty and derelict factories!

All I can say it must be very warm where they have the heads up, there certainly wouldn't be much daylight. ;D

Regards,
Ian

[alanstepney]

Unfortunately, like so many things, the prices charged reflect the costs, and in the UK, we have some of the highest costs in the world.

For the few manufacturers who remain, they need to charge enough to cover said costs, and if one looks at their books, hardly any of them make excessive profits.

In Myfords favour, the quality is excellent, and anyone buying one now is likely to have a machine that will outlast them and still be worth selling.
Probably for more than it cost when new.

As an example, my ML7 including some accessories, cost me almost £150 in the late 1960's.
Now it would fetch at least that and much more.

So, taking a long term view, they still represent good value.

[Tony K]

Apr 20, 2008 10:35:19 GMT Myford Matt said:

Brand new, Myfords are an extraordinary price – but second hand they can be a good buy. Have you seen this on ebay:
200217063868
Not cheap (you could very easily spend less), but you do get a lot for your money, in what 'appears' to be excellent condition.
MM

Agree. I spent some time cruising to see some of the other stuff on eBay and other advertisers. I came to the conclusion the cheap stuff (nice word for crap!) was OK for starters, but there was a world of difference when you got around £1500. I got a little tired of "This was my granddads and I know nothing about lathes" - just an excuse to sell something rusty and knocked about, requiring a great deal of attention. That is fine if you want to spend time tarting up a lathe, but I just wanted a machine in decent nick I could use.
Lots of stuff with that one - looks in nice condition - and I bet it is. I would recommend this guy David Anchell
All IMHO of course - and not to everyone's taste.

[ravensworth2674]

Having written my usual heresy in uk.rec. models .engineering, it gave me further thoughts.
I would re-iterate that any lathe is only as good(or bad) as the goodies which complement it. It is no good having a superb lathe- and not having sufficient chucks, faceplates and gears and tooling to do what you set off to do. Believe me, the need for more goodies will come soon enough. It does point to buying a 'Chinese' whatsit which are surprisingly good now. My choice was Myford because I had 'Myford goodies' galore.
Another interesting thought is to buy 'crap. and use the purchase to do one's apprenticeship.
Sometime ago, I did describe doing up a ML7 for £35. It was crap- the guy had been sold a pup. The savior was an old Herbert hand surface grinder which licked piece after piece into near perfect order. This begs the remark that something like a Clarkson Tand C will go for £100 or so. If you can use one, provided your basket case is not broken, it can be restored.
It's a bit like Jewish prostitution. She liked it and got paid for it. My grinding( oops) continues by with first class tooling( more oops)
I have a Clarkson but went out the other month for a £150 Stent, It was fabricated but worn parts are soon licked up again.

Again, you have some of our thoughts. No one writes them in text books but there is a lot of good advice coming from all directions.
Good Luck

Norm