ace
Statesman
Posts: 528
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Post by ace on Jul 10, 2008 8:03:28 GMT
Smoke box door.
Well I decided to have a go at making my own smoke box door, one that would open on hinges. So I cut out the copper disc and then using formers from a previous job pressed the center out a little to form the dome shape. To my surprise it actually worked and looks OK. Hinges filed out from some flat brass and drilled then riveted to the door. Now just to attach the door to the fire box. I will post pic's later when I've cleaned it up and filed out one little error. ;D
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Post by spamcanman on Jul 10, 2008 14:37:59 GMT
how did you get on with the bending only I spoke with a friend yesterday who has just completed 2 for his grandchildren and he said an easy mistake could be made at that point and could prove costly, he's built three 5" locos and said the 'Project' was challenging.
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ace
Statesman
Posts: 528
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Post by ace on Jul 10, 2008 17:55:23 GMT
Hi spamcanman
If you are referring to the pipes then after a lot of fiddling and then a little bit more fiddling and finally a bit of fiddling I finally managed to get the pipes into the right place. I like the instructions in the booklet " just bend the pipes into position", ye right. The door proved to be a little easier than I expected and is now firmly fixed to the smoke-box. I just need to fabricate a locking mechanism. I agree with your friend it is challenging.
ace
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ace
Statesman
Posts: 528
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Post by ace on Jul 12, 2008 21:12:28 GMT
A little more progress. Smoke stack, I finally made one that fits, and looks OK..... well to me anyway Smoke-box door fitted and secured via hinges and temporary screw. The groove was caused when trimming the door on the lathe, should polish out. Most of the bodywork completed, just a few fixing bracket to make to secure the lot to the Chassis. Hopefully I will be able to pressure test the system and check for leaks, I suspect that the pipe work banjo's will be the problem area as I can only seal them with PTFE tape for now as the washers I bought are to thick and require thinning a little. More later. ace
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Post by havoc on Jul 13, 2008 12:22:13 GMT
Very good looking engine. As for the washers, get some PTFE rod and make them yourself. Had to do the same as those thin washers are too hard to find and turning the commercial ones to size isn't easy as the material has a tendency to turn to dust.
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ace
Statesman
Posts: 528
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Post by ace on Jul 13, 2008 21:43:59 GMT
Cheers Havoc
Yep I guess thats the way forward. Made some for my other engine but it took afew attempts to part them off thin enough before I got them just right. ace
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Post by spamcanman on Jul 13, 2008 22:17:39 GMT
Hi Ace, You do not need washers on any of the banjos I do not know of any Gauge1 loco with them. You should get a good enough seal just nicking them up if not Aster use a sealant same a silicon but great care must be used applying it a very,very thin smear. I have just spent a day stripping a G1 loco for a friend that had the red hermatite used and it was everywhere and every orifice
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ace
Statesman
Posts: 528
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Post by ace on Jul 14, 2008 0:22:52 GMT
Thanks spamcanman. I have only the one banjo that won't seal, I think its the bolt head not being flush so I may make another one. the other thing is the steam regulator, it needs to be tight to seal it and then its difficult to undo especially if the cab is on, makes it hard to open. I am thinking of making a little cone shaped insert out of PTFE rod to go in the end of the valve spindle. I am hoping to get a smooth open - closed action, plus I will be able to replace it when it gets worn.
ace
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Post by spamcanman on Jul 14, 2008 16:41:33 GMT
Hi Ace, What have you made the cab and running boards from
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ace
Statesman
Posts: 528
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Post by ace on Jul 14, 2008 21:07:20 GMT
Both the cab and running boards are from 1mm mild steel. I prefered steel rather than brass because I have more of it than brass sheet right now. I know the plans state that the belpair should be made from 24 swg brass but unless it will be a problem when running from heat then steel it will have to be for now. The footplates are supported by a 4mm square bar instead of brass angle as well. Although the plans don't call for a belpair plate below the boiler I have made one to hide the fire box. I am trying to refrain from buying metal stock at present prices and using what ever I have to hand.
ace
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Post by spamcanman on Jul 14, 2008 21:11:03 GMT
nothing wrong with steel Ace, it just looked strange but who knows once the paint is on, anyway i'm all for recycling ;D
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ace
Statesman
Posts: 528
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Post by ace on Jul 14, 2008 21:23:01 GMT
PAINT, you mean I gotta paint it as well...... The only trouble with steel is that when you braze it all up your left with a blue/black finish that requires a good clean up with emery. I cheated and went at it with the flap wheel with a fine grade of emery, wicked finish though. The square bar is out of an old HP printer from work, and the steel for the running boards is from the internal structure from the same HP machine. Waste not want not......
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ace
Statesman
Posts: 528
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Post by ace on Jul 16, 2008 9:13:54 GMT
A bit ahead of myself here but having made the burner for the fire box and looked closely at it in position I can't see how I would light the burners without turning the engine on its side to access the burner pots. I have though looked at cutting a small hole at the rear of the fire box and putting a small door that could be swung over to allow a long match to be inserted and when the pots are lit the door can be shut thus allowing the engine to remain on the track. The other thing was that when the cab is in position it is difficult to access the regulator valves with my fat fingers, so I have designed a nice little tool that will do the job just fine, post some pics later might be of use to others following my footsteps in building this G1.
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Post by spamcanman on Jul 16, 2008 16:21:27 GMT
Hi Ace, All Gauge1 have there pots like yours some Asters do have a door on the back head to open but there really is no need. Get some house 3 core wire and strip one of the wires bare get some wick material and fix it to the tip of the wire by bending a hook into it then just bend the wire so it will fit up the side near the pots. A piece of kit you will need is a dentist mirror so while the loco sits on the rails you can see the flame from above. Here's my firing up kit for gauge1 Steam oil in the red can, in the valve spout bottle is my alcohol, Large syringe for getting water into the tender, Small syringe for extracting water/steam oil from lubricator, Dentist mirror, Wire as described with wick material top of an aerosol can which I put some alcohol in to dip my lighter in and finally I use an Aster blower. ;D
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ace
Statesman
Posts: 528
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Post by ace on Jul 16, 2008 21:23:24 GMT
Hi Spamcanman Had a little fiddle with the pipe work and fittings tonight to cure an air leak and discovered that the lubricator was still being fed air pressure even after the valve was shut. found the culprit to be the pressure gauge union that was letting air past and into the lubricator as they are both next to each other, sorted that though with a winding of PTFE tape between the two. I have a question though - when pressurised and the steam regulator is opened the air is sent to the steam chest, that I understand but also then from the steam chest to the lubricator to which is a small pot one pipe in and one pipe out to the lubricator valve. How does the lubricator work on a gauge 1, looking at it I would say that if the valve was opened oil would be pushed into the boiler. I'm confused. ace
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Post by spamcanman on Jul 16, 2008 21:59:31 GMT
Not quite, It operates by allowing steam to enter a closed vessel containing oil. After condensing, the water sinks to the bottom of the vessel, causing the oil to rise and overflow into the delivery pipe. By the way NEVER unscrew the oil cap while under steam pressure or it will spurt out everywhere. When the pressure has dropped in the boiler you can unscrew the oil cap and with a small syringe suck out the water condense and refill with fresh steam oil or like this picture you could have adrain on the bottom. note. when filling the lubricator with oil always leave a space at the top so the condense has somewhere to go.
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ace
Statesman
Posts: 528
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Post by ace on Jul 16, 2008 22:55:43 GMT
Hi spamcanman That system I understand its the same as on my other stationary engines but this ones different. I think that the valve must be there to regulate the amount of pressure coming from the boiler to the steam chest through the lubricator and I think and that maybe the air leaking past the unions is deliberate and that it is that amount of pressure that forces the oil to the steam chest. the valve is to increase the pressure should it fail to work. ace
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ace
Statesman
Posts: 528
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Post by ace on Jul 24, 2008 22:46:08 GMT
Finally Succumbed to making a new clack valve, as no matter what I tried the original just would not seal. Putting it down to distortion. Its getting near the end ;D and I'm just about done with the main issues just a bit of cosmetics and fettling and hopefully she will be running under steam shortly. There are a few issues still to address - 1/ the wicks for the burners, can I use normal oil lamp wicks or is there a better solution! 2/ I am ordering a Pressure gauge but not sure to what pressure I need, does anyone know what pressure this G1 should be at. 3/ The water pump although a good fit allowed water past the piston, so a small groove was formed in the piston and a 'o' ring fitted, appears to work alright. Should this have a seal on it, it doesn't state it in the instructions.
Any help on these points would be welcome
ace
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Post by mackintosh on Jul 27, 2008 7:17:26 GMT
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ace
Statesman
Posts: 528
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Post by ace on Jul 30, 2008 23:50:12 GMT
Hi mackintosh
Thanks will look into what they have on offer.
steve
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