denis M
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 300
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Post by denis M on Aug 19, 2005 19:45:33 GMT
Hopefully soon I should be thinking of steaming my Winson's (spits on floor) Baldwin after many years of building. My other loco's have copper boilers but this one is steel.
Can you guys out there that have steel boilers suggest any water treatment and how much you use etc. Trade names and suppliers would be gratefully received.
Also any tips on caring for steel boilers would be nice.
Thanks all
Denis
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Post by steamjohn248 on Aug 20, 2005 22:51:06 GMT
Hi Dennis
When you find the answer let me know, we've not got to grips with it on ours yet though its only done about six days work to date
John
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Post by alanstepney on Aug 21, 2005 2:00:43 GMT
DM. A liquid additive that you just pour into the feedwater. It has been around for ages and works well. Now here's the problem. I havent been able to find any contact info or details on the Internet, although I seem to recall that the makers name changed or they changed the product name.
I am sure that someone will have more information on it.
The preserved railways use it, or something similar (I believe Swanage mix their own additive) and one of them may be willing to supply a small amount.
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Post by greasemonkey on Aug 21, 2005 7:51:56 GMT
Hi Denis I can only tell you what I have found out by talking to suppliers and the independent boiler inspector that certificated my steel boiler. You can get water treatment from the model traction engine suppliers, most of whom are usually at the midlands show. The biggest problem is that for it to be fully effective you need to know the chemical composition of the water you are using, so you can calculate the correct dose, and then ideally premix it before use! Thats not really practical so a couple of DROPS is what usually gets added, but to much can be just as bad. Adding to much will run the risk of 'gumming' up your boiler fittings, I managed to jam my hand pump clack valve by that method. The other thing I suggest you do is annually clean out the inside of your boiler. The water treatment brings the suspended particles out of the water and forms them into 'mud', hence the name 'mudhole' Blowing down doesnt seem to get rid of it all and it builds up around the foundation ring. Full size steam engines usually get a boiler washout every 14-21 sevice days to remove this. I would also sugest leaving the boiler empty. Some people suggest filling it completley to remove the air and prevent corrosion, I prefer to blow down while still warm and then leave the valves open to allow it to 'dry' before closing and storing. Just my thoughts and methods, does anyone do anything different? Andy
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denis M
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 300
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Post by denis M on Aug 23, 2005 22:06:43 GMT
Thanks for the replies so far but there must be more modelers out there that use steel boilers.
But again thanks so far.
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Post by greasemonkey on Aug 24, 2005 7:56:40 GMT
HI Dennis It is because of the maintenance and care problems that 99% of steam engines have copper boilers!. Try asking the traction engine boys the same question as they tend to use steel boilers because of the extra strength it offers.
Andy
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Post by hercules on Sept 11, 2005 17:46:00 GMT
The basic requirement for a steel boiler is Tannin which is an oxygen scavenger and is available (unfortunatly do not have suppliers to hand) suggest you ring a Heritage Railway. It was ok to analise your local water and put the correct additive in, but water is now moved around the UK, I believe, and there is no guarantee you get the same hardness from one month to the next. One Heritage Railway has just discovered that their soft water appears to have gone hard!
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Post by greasemonkey on Sept 11, 2005 18:27:43 GMT
Dont forget to check the accidity of your water! Tannin can only scavenge the oxygen if the water is alkaline, Tannin in acidic water doesnt do anything!! My local preserved line uses the same method of water treatment as the Severn Valley and is a two part system. The first part makes the water alkaline and the tannin then scavenges the oxygen and keeps the particles in suspension.
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Post by Chris Kelland on Sept 28, 2005 16:20:30 GMT
Hi Chaps,
I found an article in Engineering in Miniature, August 1999 on the subject by Robin Eycott. It seems that the Tannin and Soda Ash route is probably best as it seems to be the least fussy about over or under dosing the feed water. As usual each supplier has their own pet name for the product so a little searching may be needed, but I have found a couple, minimum order seems a bit high though.
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