simonwass
Part of the e-furniture
Cecil Pagets 2-6-2 of 1908. Engine number 2299. Would make a fascinating model....
Posts: 472
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Post by simonwass on Apr 18, 2009 15:44:50 GMT
Hi Ace, don't use brass - it's considered a no-no in boilers nowadays. I use ordinary phosphor bronze for bushes and fittings, although it can be a pig to work with sometimes. Gunmetal is fine but a bit dearer I think. John Would brass be slightly more acceptable here due to the parts being 100% steam space parts? I know brass is frouned upon but I thought it was the water which did the attacking. I've only ever used brass for all my fittings and I do know of an ex boiler inspector who used brass for his bushes, not that I'd do that mind. I never use any form of purified water though, might the bit of scale be preserving my brass?
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Post by baggo on Apr 18, 2009 16:07:28 GMT
Hi Simon, Just erring on the side of caution here I've read comments that brass would be ok above the water line and that may well be true. I've always used bronze for bushes and fittings that screw into the boiler although I am sure a lot of the commercially available fittings are brass. I think some types of brass are more susceptable than others but it's knowing what sort you've got. When I was stripping the backhead of the Kingette, the blower valve (brass) broke clean off when I tried to unscrew it and the threaded stub left in the manifold looked corroded. Good job it didn't break off when the boiler was in steam To be fair though, the valve is a good few years old. Mind you, the injector valve was only holding on by half a thread and some string like packing! Really dangerous John
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ace
Statesman
Posts: 528
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Post by ace on Apr 18, 2009 22:32:19 GMT
Hi John, I did use them to line up the holes in the motion bracket but I didn't know that was what they where for.
I wondered as many small boilers that I have built (stationary engines) specify brass for the bushes. You say phosphor bronze is a pig to work with, why's that?.
ace
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ace
Statesman
Posts: 528
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Post by ace on Apr 18, 2009 22:58:03 GMT
Spamcanman. Would love to make the show this weekend but we are having friends over so I won't even have chance to go into the workshop until late tomorrow.
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Post by baggo on Apr 19, 2009 1:28:03 GMT
Hi Ace,
Ordinary bronze (PB102) is not bad to turn but drilling it can cause problems. It's usually in the form of wrought bar which work hardens the outside skin and sets up compressive stresses in the outer layers. When you drill it and remove the inside, the outside 'shrinks' slightly and grips the drill leading to overheating and possible seizure. So long as you use some form of cutting fluid to cool and lubricate the metal and take it steady, you should be ok.
John
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ace
Statesman
Posts: 528
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Post by ace on Apr 19, 2009 21:32:40 GMT
Hi John, Just machined and drilled some P/bronze bushes for the motion bracket and it did machine OK but the drill did feel like it was about to jam up now and then so I just kept withdrawing the drill and as you said plenty of lube. The motion bracket is now soldered up and the holes all line. (to my own amazement).
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ace
Statesman
Posts: 528
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Post by ace on Apr 25, 2009 23:02:06 GMT
Expansion LinksOne expansion link almost done, one to go. This is certainly challenging my machining skills, and my milling machine set ups. Made one earlier but milled off the end part for the eccentric rod.
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Post by baggo on Apr 26, 2009 0:03:19 GMT
This is certainly challenging my machining skills, and my milling machine set ups. That's what makes it so much fun John
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ace
Statesman
Posts: 528
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Post by ace on Apr 26, 2009 22:04:39 GMT
It will be more fun when I get milling machine thats bigger than my rotary table. ;D ;D I bought this heap (new) to tie me over whilst I rearranged my workshop to take a bigger milling machine but haven't found one yet.
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Post by baggo on Apr 26, 2009 23:41:48 GMT
Keep looking, I've just bought a Chester Eagle 25 off Ebay for a very good price after waiting for ages for the right one to come up John
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ace
Statesman
Posts: 528
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Post by ace on Apr 27, 2009 20:37:11 GMT
is that the same as the clarke version only better quality!
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ace
Statesman
Posts: 528
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Post by ace on Apr 27, 2009 20:47:15 GMT
Case Hardening
Some parts for the valve gear require case hardening, I am looking at buying the case hardening compound from Chronos. Has anyone used it or could recommend any other stuff.
ace
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redmog
Part of the e-furniture
Not Morgan weather
Posts: 461
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Post by redmog on Apr 27, 2009 20:57:16 GMT
I have reservations about case hardening mild steel valve gear, assuming that's what you've used. I would check with the more knowledgeable people on here to see if they think it is worth the trouble of scale to be removed from that nice surface finish. Will it extend the working life of the valve gear for the work you are going to put it to?
Chris
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ace
Statesman
Posts: 528
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Post by ace on Apr 27, 2009 21:50:12 GMT
Cheers Chris, I'll push this to the general chat topic .
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ace
Statesman
Posts: 528
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Post by ace on May 4, 2009 21:24:25 GMT
Eccentric and straps Almost completed the eccentric and strap, runs smooth and true I'm really pleased with the result. The grub screw hole now needs smoothing over as it is just causing a slight binding now its reassembled. Both expansion links are completed as well now, will post a pic of them mounted on the motion plate later, they look OK and fit nice and tight within the bushes. Just hanging on for the Harrogate show this weekend to stock up on a few bits and pieces. (well a lot actually). ace
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Post by baggo on May 4, 2009 22:22:34 GMT
is that the same as the clarke version only better quality! I think it's pretty much the same machine although the Chester has a larger motor and seems to be much heavier I'm going to strip and rebuild it and set it up properly before I use it anyway. I've just looked on the Chester website and I'm sure all their prices have gone up suddenly The Eagle 25 is now nearly the same price as the Warco version and I'm sure it was £100 cheaper when I looked before! Makes mine even more of a bargain ;D Nice work on the Green Arrow, keep the pics coming John
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ace
Statesman
Posts: 528
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Post by ace on May 4, 2009 22:44:49 GMT
Hi John
I might be tempted to have a good look at the Warco and Chester stand this weekend at Harrogate. I think I am going to have to buy something soon so they may give me an idea to which model to look out for. (second hand anyway for now).
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Post by baggo on May 4, 2009 23:25:10 GMT
There's a lot of these sized mills come up on Ebay so it's worth keeping an eye open. They are not too big to transport in an estate or even a car if you don't mind traveling to fetch them. I unbolted the column and separated the head from the base which made it more manageable. Still bloomin' heavy though You need 2 strong people to carry the bits! Also keep an eye on the Warco website - they often have s/h or shop soiled machines for sale. John
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Post by spamcanman on May 5, 2009 0:06:23 GMT
Hi Ace, I bagged a bargain last year on the Warco stand buying a lathe and mill personally I would go for Warco than Chester they seem to be finished off that bit better and the paint on the machines looks better applied. They all want your money so haggle with them or get them to throw in extras. All the machines have gone up due to the value of the pound unfortunately. See you at the show
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Post by baggo on May 5, 2009 15:07:07 GMT
personally I would go for Warco than Chester they seem to be finished off that bit better and the paint on the machines looks better applied. Given the choice I would probably go for a Warco as well, especially now the prices seem very similar, but when I bought the Chester it was a case of 'beggars can't be choosers' ;D John
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