Arnak
Seasoned Member
Posts: 146
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Post by Arnak on Sept 2, 2008 18:33:19 GMT
Hi Folks,
A few years ago you used to be able to purchase a standard hacksaw that had multi-positions where the blade connects at both ends.
Now I find that they have only horizontal or vertical locking positions.
I find this a shame, as if you want to cut down a long piece of metal you have you have the hacksaw fully out to the side to do so.
My question is can you still buy the older, more versatial hacks, if so where from?
Thanks,
Arnak
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ace
Statesman
Posts: 528
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Post by ace on Sept 2, 2008 21:21:19 GMT
Arnak
Try shopping around in the smaller corner diy shops not the B&Q's or bigger stores they tend to sell the dearer types or just plain hacksaws.
Or try searching for 'eclipse' tools I'm sure that mine was an eclipse make and that had hexagonal pins each end allowing different cutting angles. Came from a car-boot sale.
ace
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Arnak
Seasoned Member
Posts: 146
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Post by Arnak on Sept 3, 2008 9:39:35 GMT
Hi Ace,
Thanks for that info.
Yes, I seem to recall it was an eclipse one that I had originally.
If I can't find one I suppose the only option is to make new ends for myself.
Arnak
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Post by jonkett on Sept 3, 2008 19:38:31 GMT
Of the top of my head, the eclipse has positions for vertical horizontal and 45 deg. It is still available as a model 70-20tr. You can see a whole selection of hacksaws on ur web site www.cromwell.co.uk
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russell
Statesman
Chain driven
Posts: 762
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Post by russell on Sept 4, 2008 7:41:21 GMT
A slight aside; why are hacksaws normally assembled with the teeth pointing forwards? The teeth alsways tend to catch on corners or on thin material, particularly if you are not very skilled in its use. I have found that reversing the blade so that it cuts when pulling, like fine japanese wood saws, makes it much more controllable for delicate work because if a tooth catches it tends to lift the blade rather than dig in.
Russell.
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Arnak
Seasoned Member
Posts: 146
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Post by Arnak on Sept 4, 2008 9:18:58 GMT
Hi Jonkett,
Thank for that info, I'll have a look.
Arnak
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Post by jonkett on Sept 5, 2008 17:01:55 GMT
one thing about hacksaw blades, if you want to to cut a straight line a all hard blade is much easier to use. The flexible bi-meal blades were originaly pushed by the manufacturers in to places like schools, colleges and training centres on a safety promotion. i still preder the original all hard blade.
Regards John K.
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Sept 6, 2008 8:17:36 GMT
Hi Russell I am not trying to be an expert , but may be you are pushing too hard on the hacksaw . the weight of the the hacksaw should do the job . On cutting thin metal one should have a minimum of two teeth on the cut . use a blade with finer teeth eg 32 teeth per inch .The blade should be nipped reasonably tight and teeth facing forward . Your elbow should be at the hight of hacksawing approximately and the hacksaw at slight angle downward .Use the full length of the blade .I agree the hard blade is easier to use than the bi metal .You can use lubricant or cutting paste if you like .
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Post by Tel on Sept 6, 2008 8:58:18 GMT
Spot on Shawki - an all hard blade and a smear of Trefolex and the job's a good 'un.
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russell
Statesman
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Post by russell on Sept 6, 2008 20:48:07 GMT
Hi Shawki and Tel,
Have you tried using the blade the other way round? It works well for fine work. I think the Japanese have got it right with their saws. Note also that watch and clock makers also use piercing saws this way round.
Of course I'm sure that with your experience both ways work equally well but for those of us with less skill..
Russell.
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Post by Tel on Sept 6, 2008 21:24:26 GMT
Yes mate, I have (but don't tell anyone) - It does work better for some applications.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 6, 2008 21:42:08 GMT
Tel, I can understand your reluctance to admit to using a pull saw. How did that old joke go? I remember now," Better to have old hen than poulet!" JB
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Sept 7, 2008 10:10:21 GMT
No I haven't , may be because of my background but if it works for you why not ! I will give it a try .We are all on a learning curve .
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dva
Seasoned Member
Posts: 110
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Post by dva on Sept 8, 2008 11:47:39 GMT
I find that the answer to thin sheet is to only cut with the sheet clamped flat , not vertical. That way you enter the metal at about 20 - 30degrees and, provided you don't drag the saw back, there is very little chance of the teeth catching. But I suppose you all do that anyway.
Dave
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tcase
Involved Member
Posts: 52
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Post by tcase on Sept 13, 2008 14:26:01 GMT
Tried the backward blade many years ago, found that it caught very badly if the metal was horizontal also lifted the sheet. With the sheet vertical in the vice it seemed less controllable. kept at it for a few days then gave up in disgust and went back to the normal blade mounting. These days I use a Sandvig square tube with the tensioning under the handle, this has pins for vertical and diagonal mounting.
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Post by Jo on Sept 24, 2008 15:19:47 GMT
I understood that the reason to point the teeth away from you was the same as with milling cutters... you don't want the blade to "climb saw" and dig in reducing you control over the cutting. The odd ball being when you use a hacksaw blade in a sheet saw when you point the teeth towards the handle as you have no control over the far end of the blade.
Jo
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russell
Statesman
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Post by russell on Sept 25, 2008 8:35:24 GMT
Au contraire Jo,
If you consider that a normal hacksaw has the centre of the handle above the blade (when it is horizontal) then when you push the saw forwards the reaction from the teeth, being at a lower level, will produce a couple tending to rotate the saw down at the far end thus digging in. Effectively climb sawing!
I guess the skill must lie with countering it with the left hand.
Regards, Russell.
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Post by greenbat on Oct 5, 2008 19:57:28 GMT
I thought the reason for forward teeth was so they dig in to the metal and cut, rather than just skipping over the surface. Same reason the front brake on your bike usually stops you quicker than the back. You want your strong hand (i.e. I am right handed, so my right hand) on the handle, and your other on the other end of the frame to guide it. (Apologies if teaching granny to suck eggs here). Climb milling is different-here, you deflect the tool away from the cutting face, so it has a tendancy to spring back and forth and give an awful finish. Conventional milling deflects the tool into the work, so it stays there and gives a better finish. Though I know of a job at work where climb milling gives a better finish, for some strange reason
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dva
Seasoned Member
Posts: 110
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Post by dva on Oct 5, 2008 20:34:28 GMT
Slightly off-topic, but not far off,
As most slitting saws appear to be used in a similar manner to circular saws, they are essentially very thin climb-millers. When does a slitting operation become a climb-milling operation ?
Dave
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