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Post by catgate on Sept 20, 2005 20:41:36 GMT
Isn't "Indexable" a funny way of spelling disposable?
Well, anyway up, the purpose of this thread is to ask if anyone can recommend a source of information on the multitude of mysterious letter codes used to designate and differenciate the various types. For a while I thought that I had almost cracked it, but other than the P and N (and they do not always appear) I was living in a fools paradise. Does each manufacturer have his own code? Is there any consistency between manufacturers? Will there be toast and honey for tea? If I am a really good boy will Santa Claus bring me a teddy for Christmas? Do I really have to go to bed?
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Post by Tel on Sept 21, 2005 9:14:40 GMT
The best way to deal with this problem is to chuck 'em all in a drawer & never take 'em out unless you are de-skinning cast iron. HSS & Carbon Steel are better for our purposes
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Post by Tim Bayliss on Sept 21, 2005 10:44:30 GMT
Until recently I'd have agreed with Tell whole heartedly especially as I've had some real bad experiences with the 'indexable' type tools - BUT - when I recently purchased a lathe from Chester they 'threw-in' a set of 5 external turning tools (no boring tool or anything) with a plain, grey triangular throw away tip and they are great. They are of the cheap variety, although not nasty, and the tips aren't designated by any confusing initials, they're just tips. I've used them on most stuff and they work well for both roughing and finishing.
I've seen them advertised on most of the suppliers web pages in various size shanks up to about 16mm.
But of course when I run out of tips I'm happy to go back to the old reliable HSS or carbon tools.
Regards,
Tim
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Post by catgate on Sept 21, 2005 14:27:40 GMT
The best way to deal with this problem is to chuck 'em all in a drawer & never take 'em out unless you are de-skinning cast iron. HSS & Carbon Steel are better for our purposes
Yes, that had been my opinion up until a few says ago. I was talking to local professional. practical, practicing engineer, who like me is edging into the last couple of chapters, and he claimed, most enthusiastically, that they were far superior to even the high cobalt stuff. He even gave me a demo in his engineering shop.
In fact it was his comments that made me determine to find out more about them. He said words to the effect, "Well these that I have were bought with the holders, but what I am going to do when they have gone I do not know, because appart from knowing they are positive rake I know bu**er all about them."
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Post by Tel on Sept 21, 2005 20:16:23 GMT
Might have some luck on eBay - there seem to be a profusion of tc tips there these days.
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Post by steamjohn248 on Sept 21, 2005 20:23:45 GMT
Go to www.jlindustrial.co.uk or E Mail sales@jlindustrial.co.uk or phone (free) 0800 66 33 55 The catalouge is free, its about the size of your yellow pages and has got colour pics of every tool you have ever dreamed of and a lot you hav'nt. Next day delivery on your plastic. Even if you never buy any, its a fantastic reference book. I never use anything else in my lathes and Mills and even if you do chip them you can always touch them up on a green stone and use them for rough work. Usual disclaimer! |
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Post by catgate on Sept 21, 2005 21:22:49 GMT
Thanks for that, Steamjohn. I have followed your suggestion. I now await with legs agog and knees akimbo.
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Post by Peter W. on Sept 25, 2005 19:38:26 GMT
I've looked at the J&L catalogue -- very nice too ! -- but
there are THOUSANDS of TC tips to choose from.
Can anyone recommend specific holders and tips suitable for an ML7, or is that too small/light for TC tips ?
Cheers,
Peter
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Post by Phil Sutton on Sept 25, 2005 21:17:54 GMT
When I was an apprentice,many,many moons ago,we had a buckshee supplier of tips.They used to come courtesy of the NCB,from the cutting tools on the mining machines.They where just thrown away when they were chipped or blunt,we used to make our own tools,brazing the tips on the end of bits of mild steel bar,then grinding ends to suit the jobs.Mind you,that was with bigger lathes than a Myford!
Phil
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Post by steamjohn248 on Sept 25, 2005 22:30:47 GMT
If you look more closely at the J and L Cat ,you will see the tool holder shank sizes are all given. just pick ones that will fit your toolholder. (pages 291 to 356) If you still cannot make up your mind ring J and L and one of their very nice 'have a nice day sir' types in their technical department will answer any questions. the phone call is free and they are there to try and help (and sell you stuff). again usual disclaimer
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Post by ChrisCrosskey on Sept 30, 2005 2:18:34 GMT
If you've got the tool and an old tip that you were happy with to hand, track down JB cutting tools at a show and the nice lady behind the counter (yes a lady in an engineering supply shop!) will know what it is and almost certainly have it to hand. I use indexable almost exclusively.... Started out with a little set from Chronos and some spare tips from ebay (good place once you know what you're looking for/at), now I've built a big plain toolpost (Like the Gibralter but bigger) for my Myford so I can use industry standard 1" and 3/4" tooling..... until you've seen an ML7 with a 40mm turning tool (thats the shank across square, not long) you've not lived  . It seems especially good on bronze, cast iron and ally, steel really needs the right tip geometry, and remember that the turnin speed wants to be 2-3x as fast as for hss chrisc |
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Post by Peter W. on Oct 3, 2005 20:30:37 GMT
Many thanks, I'll keep my eye open for those.
( Not the 40mm size though !)
Peter
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Post by chris vine on Oct 4, 2005 14:29:09 GMT
Hi,
indexable tools are just about all I use these days, you can run them almost as fast as you like and they work best when flooded with coolant and worked hard IE a high feed rate. Industrial lathes are pushing something like 50hp at a tip little larger than the ones we might use!
I find that on the Myford it is best to protect the bed between the saddle and the headstock with a bit of thick polythere with chrome leather on top, attached by a strip of metal to the front edge of the saddle, there is a hole there for a travelling steady.... make the protector about 12 to 18" long and what is not needed is bunched up into the gap and seldom gets in the way. You will find that the bed stays perfectly clean and oily which is just what you need if it is not hardened.
Greenwood tools supply holders and tips in ME sizes, I have found that you can find the exact match for their tips in J&L at a fraction of the price and you can select the grade for the material you are cutting, there seems to be quite a difference between a tip for, say, cast iron and stainless steel.
Have fun
Chris.
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Post by Peter W. on Oct 5, 2005 19:27:13 GMT
It's always interesting and helpful to read what others do, so thanks again.
I've used TC on cast iron of course, to rough out, but hadn't considered it for general use until now.
Peter
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. It seems especially good on bronze, cast iron and ally, steel really needs the right tip geometry, and remember that the turnin speed wants to be 2-3x as fast as for hss