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Post by the_viffer on Oct 5, 2005 11:15:21 GMT
Well the concrete base for the new 'shop was laid yesterday and so before the month is out I should have the skeleton of a workshop.
I'm now wondering about installing my tooling.
My Myford and my mill are on steel stands. Is it possible to bolt them to the base without destroying the expensively provided damp proof membrane. If so how?
The die filer, Perfecto (power) shaper, linisher, small lathe and drill press are currently mounted on bolted together steel framed benches with thick wooden tops. I'm tempted to weld up the joints. Is it worth it? If it is possible is it worth bolting them to the floor? Are there better cost effective ways of dealing with these machines?
The Kennedy saw works part time as a hacksaw when it is moonlighting from its job as a doorstop.
Any advice on installation would be appreciated.
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Post by Tim Bayliss on Oct 5, 2005 12:19:15 GMT
For holding down the stands you can either use short type anchor bolts that do not penetrate the damp course or possibly use what we call chemical anchor bolts that use a resin type stuff to seal the anchor into the hole (very expensive!), although they may allow damp to pass up between the damp course and the slab, but not up to the surface. I've mounted my drill press on a cabinet type stand on wheels (I don't have much room) and it works well but I don't think it would do for a shaper. Best of luck with the new workshop, Tim
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Post by the_viffer on Oct 5, 2005 14:59:22 GMT
Thanks Tim Hope you are feeling better. I'd be glad for further info about either or both tie down methods you mention. The shaper is a powered 7 inch Perfecto which as you will see from the link www.lathes.co.uk/shapers/page2.html is intended for bench mounting. Wheel mounting is not such a good idea for it (the idea of it shunting back and forth over the shop does not appeal) but I think it was probably designed for fairly light mounting. I'm very much looking forward to setting up although Erin is already muttering about a new kitchen and a loft conversion so the combination of that and school fees for number 1 daughter mean expensive times at Viffer Heights.
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Post by Tel on Oct 5, 2005 20:49:54 GMT
Yo Fingers - you can use ordinary bolts, set head-down in shallowish holes & retained by pouring in melted sulphur. That's ow we did a lot at the brewery before they would trust them new-fangled masonry anchors
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Post by the_viffer on Oct 5, 2005 21:09:13 GMT
Thanks Terry
I was wondering about lead (and had visions of you dancing with shoes full of molten metal). The sulphur idea is a good 'un esp as Erin can rob some from her work. I only wish I'd watch them lay the base so I knew how deep the DPM was. Where do they put it? Is it between the hardcore and the concrete?
Cheers
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jackrae
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,335
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Post by jackrae on Oct 5, 2005 21:26:57 GMT
I feel you're worrying about nothing much Unless you've maqnaged to float your floor on top of a lake, drilling the odd hole through the damp course isn't going to do any harm What little bit of capillary damp that does manage to find its way between hole wall and fixing bolt will be evaporated by the temperature difference between the underside of your base and the room. If you're still concerned then pour some oil based paint into the hole when you set in the expanding bolt. This will coat the hole walls and effectively act as a damp barrier.
regards jack
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Post by Tim Bayliss on Oct 6, 2005 9:52:32 GMT
I'd say that the other options suggested are just as good and more cost effective than mine - I particularly like Tels melted sulphur, the fumes would probably get rid of any creepy-crawlies too! Careful that the concrete in the hole is real dry if you use molten lead and use a mask. It's a standard method of holding railings into granite plinths by the way. The damp course should be directly under the slab which should be a minimum of 3" thick and pref 4" to provide load bearing. You could float a thin layer of sand/cement mix to get a nice even surface if there are any lumpy bits. My pal back in Wales fitted a complete wooden floor with thin ply on battens when he built his shed, it's great to walk on and warm, but it has to be fitted around the heavy equipment which is directly on the concrete. Best of luck, Tim
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Post by andrewtoplis on Oct 7, 2005 13:07:41 GMT
Hi Viffer,
Is your damp proofing guaranteed? If so alterations (ie almost anything) will usually invalidate it, so better check first. We had some building work done in our front room which all had to be re-done again as the damp proof people promptly said they wouldnt guarantee it!!
Our living room has had a bare plaster wall while it dries for nearly a year now, and I wouldnt wish it on anyone!
Andy
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Post by the_viffer on Oct 10, 2005 14:03:42 GMT
Is your damp proofing guaranteed? Cash job I'm afraid. When we moved into our house 15 years ago the dpc had been bridged by some poor tarmac laying. We had some chemical injection around the walls which seems to have knocked the problem on the head. So you might think about that. The shop base looks like it is 6" conrete over hardcore so there is some hope I can get some fasteners in without breaching the dpm. I wasn't sure where they put it. I plan to do it using sulphur as it will be an excuse to make some plastic sulphur. (Pour molten sulphur into cold water and you get a plastic material which turns brittle with age and handling. Very tactile!)
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Post by andrewtoplis on Oct 10, 2005 18:24:48 GMT
Hi Viffer, We had some builders who did some work but breached the damp proof course in the front bay, so the original contractors came and re-did it. Trouble is between pot smoking breaks in their van they did a bit of a crap job and left way too much cold air flowing in - thus when a flatmate ran the gas fire the slate fireplace cracked!!
AAAAARGH!!
Andy. ps why are you called the viffer?
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Post by the_viffer on Oct 10, 2005 20:00:59 GMT
Why are you called the viffer?
Many have asked. a) I'm often called far ruder and I'm happy to settle for a mild insult b) It is an English transcription of a celtic word used ironically and in translation perhaps best written as Guv'nor
Gwro kelmy a hollan thewh
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gwrfan
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 458
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Post by gwrfan on Oct 10, 2005 22:07:29 GMT
"Why are you called the viffer?"
So, nothing to do with the TT and motorcycles then. Guv'nor? ;D
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Post by the_viffer on Oct 11, 2005 10:34:32 GMT
"Why are you called the viffer?" So, nothing to do with the TT and motorcycles then. Guv'nor? ;D Moghrey mie, It has nothing to do with motor cycle races on Ellan Vannin. There is however a character in Compton Mackenzie's Whisky Galore called "the biffer" for the same reason Slain lhiu PS I like to think that not much Manx has been posted on these boards before now
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